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Areas in Kindergarten Rock

East Face 8 / 15 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
South Face 2 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
West Face 4 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Elevation: 6,065 ft
GPS: 38.875, -104.88 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 61,776 total, 282/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Nov 29, 1999
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

Kindergarten Rock is the Southernmost of the three large main formations in the Garden, and contains many fine climbs. Ormes' Chimney (5.6) may be one of the first technical climbs in Colorado and is still impressive when you consider it was done by Robert Ormes in 1924.

While the West Face of Kindergarten is composed of the same soft sandstone found on the Gateway Rocks, the East Face of Kindergarten is composed of solid, featured, and almost glassy sandstone. Some development has occurred in this area over the last 10-15 years, along with some rebolting of old lines. Must-do climbs on Kindergarten include the super-classic and well protected New Era (5.7), End of an Era (5.8), and Diesel and Dust (5.11).
2017 Gray Rock Raptor Closure - Lifted Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Getting There

To reach the East face, drive all the way around the main Garden formations until you are on the one-way road headed back North on the East side of the Rocks. Park at the parking area just South of the main formations. New Era, a dihedral splitting the rock all the way to the top, will be clearly visible. Hike uphill basically straight towards New Era. It's hard to get lost.

Rattlesnakes

Per Cody Cook: watch for rattlers.

30 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Kindergarten Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Sky
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Era
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monster Crack
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bob's Buttress Crack
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
End of an Era
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Alligator Soup
Sport 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Death of a Dinosaur
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
End to End
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Skyline Pig
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beat Me Up, Scotty
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Footloose 'N' Fancy Free
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Diesel and Dust
Sport 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
The Extremist (former entered as Civi…
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Anarchy
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Big Sky E Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
New Era E Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Monster Crack W Face 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Bob's Buttress Crack E Face 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
End of an Era E Face 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Beginning of the End a/k/a… E Face 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Alligator Soup E Face 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport 2 pitches
Death of a Dinosaur E Face 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
End to End E Face 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Skyline Pig E Face 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Beat Me Up, Scotty E Face 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Footloose 'N' Fancy Free W Face 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Diesel and Dust E Face 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
The Extremist (former enter… E Face 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Anarchy E Face 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Kindergarten Rock »

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I agree with previous comments that this section is most appropriately named (and more easily found as) the east face of Gray Rock.

My partner and I just attempted Bob's Buttress Crack, and even though the climbing restrictions were lifted weeks ago, there are still many birds nesting within the cracks of the climb. I don't recommend climbing this route at this time of year. Aug 11, 2016
Regarding the falcon closure and nesting, as far as I know the only falcons nesting at the Garden right now are in the usual nest above Angle Tangle on the east face of North Gateway. Falcons have nested in the New Era area on Grey/Kindergaten Rock, but I haven't seen any sign of them this year. It would be best to check with the CO Division of Wildlife about the closure. Obviously, the wrong sign is in place, of course, that might be all they have. Still it is incumbent on us as climbers to know if the area is closed or else risk a ticket. Jul 12, 2010
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
Yes, that would explain it! What about the Extremist? Is that the same as Civil Disobedience? Jun 29, 2010
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
Has anyone done 'The Anarchist', described in D'Antonio's book as 12a? I toproped it the other day and found it really really tough for 12a. Jun 14, 2010
Patrick Manitou
Atlanta, GAAAAA
Patrick Manitou   Atlanta, GAAAAA
Angle Tangle is an old A2 aid route on the east face of North Gateway, so yeah, the sign seems misplaced. Not sure where the falcon closings are, I'm sure someone else on here knows more specifically. Jul 9, 2009
Tonight at the Garden, we noticed a sign below Kindergarten/Gray Rock that referenced the falcon closure. It said that "Angle Tangle" was closed for raptor nesting until August. Two questions:
1) The only reference that I found to Angle Tangle was in Stewart Green's comments about North Gateway. Is the sign in the wrong place?
2) Which climbs on Kindergarten Rock are actually closed during falcon nesting? Jul 9, 2009
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
Is there any beta for Ormes chimney? Or is it not even worth it? Jul 21, 2008
I added "Unknown 4-bolt climb" with some pics. There were some climbers on it, so I didn't get a chance to go up. They didn't stop at the webbing, but went all the way to the landing way up there. Please comment on the description or the grade. Apr 9, 2006
Rik Anderson
C/S, Colorado/Talkeetna, Alask
Rik Anderson   C/S, Colorado/Talkeetna, Alask
Ryan, if the climb your talking is roughly 75ft to the right of Footloose and goes over a small roof, that's about a .9. It's been there a long time and I haven't climbed it in a long time, but if my memory serves me it's right around that grade. No idea on the name though. Apr 7, 2006
While walking around the south-end topropes (en route to the Scarecrow area) I saw a route that I was wondering if anyone had info on. It is pretty much on the SW corner of the rock, though more W than S. It is definitely before (i.e. south of) the other west-side climbs. It has 4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The anchor has blue webbing and maybe rap rings. It doesn't look super hard and isn't super tall. Can anyone ID this climb and its rating? The books I have don't mention it. Thanks for any insight. Apr 2, 2006
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
Hi Lance! Saw you out there in Sunday, 9/28. And yes, there is some great climbing to be had on the East Face. Some of which are for no toddlers!!! Sep 29, 2003
On the photo, add two other anchors - both to the right of the last blue line on right. One set is just under the bulge and slightly down from the bulge peak. The other set is for rainy/slippery descents of the ramp or rappel training. The two hangers there are on the flatter dish area on the top of the approach ramp. Also, I got to agree - calling this magnificent formation, in total, Kindergarten Rock is ridiculous. East and West Face climbs of moderate to high difficulty deserve to be attached to the name(s) Grey Rock, or Cathedral Rock as mentioned and recognized in the Park literature. Sep 14, 2003
Seems to me this section should be listed as Grey Rock, or Cathedral. Kindergarten might best refer to the south end (only) topropes. This very large formation and some intense climbs, deserve a more recognized proper name, yes? Sep 22, 2002

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