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Routes in West Face

Footloose 'N' Fancy Free S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Monster Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scarecrow T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sword in the Stone T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Leonard Coyne & Ed Webster, 1977
Page Views: 6,199 total · 33/month
Shared By: Bosier Parsons on Dec 31, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Access Issue: New 2018 partial West Face Closure Details
Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details
Access Issue: New Closure! Details

Description

New as of 2018: this route on this face of the formation is closed to climbing due to wildlife concerns. The impact on brown bats, great horned owls, red tail hawks, and Cooper's hawks have resulted the West face of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock), Keyhole Rock (aka Sleeping Giant), and the area between to be closed for all human uses including hiking and climbing. This information was from Bret Tennis, Garden of the Gods Park Operations Administrator.

This route ascends the steepest part of the west face of Kindergarten Rock. Start on a ledge below a steep, green lichenous slab that leads up to a roof and a left-leaning, left-facing dihedral about 50 feet up.

Climb the slab past 4-5 pins on mostly moderate climbing, but with some fragile edges and flakes. About 5.8 with maybe one move of 5.9. At the roof, get ready for steep, sustained, pumpy climbing. Ascend the 5.10 corner which is well protected and take a rest at its top at an alcove. Pull through the overhang at the top of the alcove onto the vertical face above, and follow it past a few more pins to the anchor on a good ledge. The crux is the move just above the alcove. The climbing above this eases, but it is still challenging due to the pump factor.

Descent -- It is best to walk off to the south, as there are many very sharp edges on the face at the top of this climb. Top-roping, rappelling, or lowering from the anchor is not recommended. A climber died on this route in '93, due to slicing his rope at the top of the route. This was prior to the direct finish with 2-3 pins above the crux which were added after the accident. It is easy to see how one could be lured left onto unprotected and razor sharp face climbing, but just stick to the line of drilled angles, and you should be fine. This route is one of my favorites at the Garden. Go get it!

Protection

About 14 drilled pins. 2 drilled pin anchor. It accepts some gear, but that is not really needed.

Approach

Approach from the parking lot just west of Montezuma's Tower, or from the Garden's South Parking Lot.

From the GOG staff June 2017: please approach from the South end of the formation, near the Kindergarten Wall.

Photos

Cody Cook
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11a
Cody Cook   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11a
Burly, burly, burly. The hardest move may only be .11a, but this is one of those lines that feels way harder than its grade because of the sustained nature. Once you pull the initial roof it is on, and you're fully committed on the lieback until you get into the alcove for a shakeout (that alcove is nasty). I'm completely pumped everytime I reach this point, and the hardest part is still to come above the alcove. I agree with Bosier...very pumpy.

Great route though...definitely one of my favorites in the Garden. Oct 27, 2008

 
I found a quick draw at the base of Footloose. If you think it's yours, let me know. Jul 20, 2011
S.Stelli
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11a
S.Stelli   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11a
I found at least three of the pins needed an extended draw and probably would have used four if I had another. Great route! All the hard moves are well protected. The lower slab stuff is VERY delicate... down not out! May 10, 2012
Clint Hager
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Clint Hager   Colorado Springs, Colorado
Hello!

I was wondering, if you can't rap down, then how will you clean your draws off the route? Can you top belay your partner up and he can clean or will that damage your rope too? I really want to give this route a shot, but I don't want to damage my rope. Mar 18, 2013
Cody Cook
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11a
Cody Cook   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.11a
Clint - just lead it and have the second clean on the way up. You can belay the second from the top, just be smart in how you set up your belay, and pay attention to how your rope might run over edges. I usually extend my belay a bit so as to get below the sharp edges that are at the foot of the belay ledge and pose the most threat, and back this up with one of the bolts at the top of the pitch. This provides for an exciting and exposed belay over the canyon. If you're smart with your belay, your rope will be just fine. Enjoy! This is one of the best routes in town. Mar 19, 2013
Clint Hager
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Clint Hager   Colorado Springs, Colorado
Thanks, Cody! Can't wait to give this a try. Apr 1, 2013
Kyle Rodman
  5.10d
Kyle Rodman  
  5.10d
Fantastic climb. Sustained, cool movement, interesting rock, and a really long pitch. Four stars for The Garden for sure. Using double ropes isn't a bad idea if it's at your limit for leading. Jun 30, 2013
Robert Scrivner
Colorado Springs
Robert Scrivner   Colorado Springs
Climbed Footloose for the first time this afternoon. Generally stellar, with a lot of fun moves.

Hard for me to give this four stars because nearly the whole route was absolutely covered in pigeon shit, and those old drilled angles are starting to look pretty manky. Would really be interested in seeing this thing re-bolted with shiny new stainless, and throwing some new anchors on it down below the sharp lip. If the community feels the same way, I'd love to contribute to make that happen. Apr 1, 2015
Thanks for your thoughts about the pitons on Footloose.

The Pikes Peak Climber's Coalition is currently evaluating the fixed protection at the Garden of the Gods to make recommendations to the COS Parks, Recreation, and Cultural Services Department about which routes might need work this year. The next step is approval by the parks department, since rock climbing is now a managed process at the Garden of the Gods, and all fixed protection that is placed and replaced must be approved.

The PPCC is having a public meeting on Thursday April 23 from 6:30 to 8:30 pm at Venue 515 in Manitou Springs. You're welcome to come and talk to Brian Shelton and myself on the Fixed Hardware Committee.

Right now, however, I think that the consensus in the community would probably be to leave the anchors where they are at the top and continue to treat the climb as a route to do with a partner and scramble down the backside rather than doing it as a sport route with lowering anchors. We are planning on rappelling down the route and evaluating all the fixed pitons later this spring. Apr 7, 2015
Dan Swann
Colorado Springs
Dan Swann   Colorado Springs
A new expansion bolt was placed at some point in the last few months. If you come across a new bolt that is not a glue-in, it was placed illegally. We saw it yesterday halfway up and 5 feet right of a great fixed pin. Please respect the rules. There is a process for bolting in The Garden. Contact the PPCA for the process. The access to this area is in serious jeopardy, because of several different factors that we won’t stand much of a chance fighting against. We don’t need the park to have another reason to close access to this Garden classic. Tread lightly, and check back frequently for access updates. The hanger will most likely be pulled soon. Jan 21, 2018

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