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Routes in East Face

"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alligator Soup S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Anarchy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Antline T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beat Me Up, Scotty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Sky S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binary T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob's Buttress Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancesatmoonrise aka The Passion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Death of a Dinosaur S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Diesel and Dust S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
End of an Era S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
End to End S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inner Sanctum T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Era T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Generation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ormes' Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Skyline Pig S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: George Allen, Ann Liebold, 9/79
Page Views: 11,005 total · 52/month
Shared By: Barrett Cooper on Aug 18, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: New 2018 partial West Face Closure Details
Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

End of an Era is the sharp arete located just to the left of Bob's Buttress Crack and to the right of New Era on the east face of Kindergarten Rock. I have found it easiest to park in the South Garden Parking Lot and then walk North to get to Kindergarten Rock. From the road, there is a short climber's trail going up to a large boulder on the east side of Kindergarten Rock. The climb is behind this boulder. There are two starts to the climb:

Option 1: Go straight up the arete to get to the first bolt which will be about 25 feet up from the base of the arete. This is rated at a 5.10 as a direct approach and is called Death of a Dinosaur .

Option 2: Start at the bottom of Bob's Buttress Crack and place a nut in the crack to protect you and your belayer from being pulled down a steep hill should you fall before the first bolt. From there, climb up and left to get on the arete up to the first bolt.

Follow the bolts up the arete and don't forget to enjoy the view. There are two bolts with rap rings at a lowering station about 70' off the deck.

Protection

Quickdraws for the bolts.

Photos

Really an excellent route on solid rock (yes, there is some at the Garden) with friendly holds and great position. Not being solid at the grade, I've always taken the Bob's Traverse. The direct start may well push this into three star territory. Mar 19, 2002
Barrett Cooper
  5.8+
Barrett Cooper  
  5.8+
The hanger on the second bolt is gone. You can take up a small nut and use it as a replacement hanger or reach right and use the old pin on the face climb (I forget the name, but it has a pin about 5 feet directly right of the missing hanger) for protection. Jul 1, 2002
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
The hanger on the second bolt is still missing, which made me back off of the lead as I've never had the balls to use a wired nut on a bolt. Another option to doing this route safely is to climb Bob's Crack and use the anchor to toprope any line you fancy on the whole face. Only drawback is the sizeable pendulum waiting for you after your topout - best to swing off a few feet early or change your anchor once there to lower off.

The holds on this route are sharp, dish-like, and angle upwards - fun climbing. Nov 17, 2003
I climbed the first ascent of this route with Anne Leibold in 1978.

George Allen Jan 21, 2004
"End of an Era" and "End to End" have a new, modern set of anchors--2 1/2" stainless steel bolts with chain and stainless steel rings. Both are backed up by a good fixed piton. The first piton that fell out last year has been replaced with a 1/2" bolt and a new hanger was placed on second bolt of "Death of the Dinosaurs" (the hanger was previously stolen), so now both routes are once again reasonably well-protected leads. Thanks to Climbing Magazine and Petzl for donating the hardware to update the routes. Jun 14, 2005
Erik Tullberg
Colorado Springs
 
Erik Tullberg   Colorado Springs
 
Just climbed this last night. One of the new bolts and hanger are loose. The bolt is not bad, but it moves enough to deserve comment especially since because of the chain length, that bolt takes most of the weight on rappel.

  • **note*** bolt has been tightened.

Still a great climb, especially with the direct start. Jul 10, 2008
Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
This route is a great tribute to one of the first ascensionists, George Allen, who died in 2006. George was a friend and climbing partner of mine, and I miss him greatly. Climbing this route today brought back great memories of him. May 14, 2011
Danimal Jones
Colorado Springs
  5.8+
Danimal Jones   Colorado Springs
  5.8+
I think this is on off the best climbs in the Garden. Great views. My son said it's one of his favorites to lead. Jun 4, 2011
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
This is a great route! Fun, fun. Tried leading the arete at the second bolt but couldn't commit; stayed on the right side of the arete, switching to the left between the two pitons on End to End. TR'd the direct start; I think it is at least .10a and possibly .10b above the second bolt on the left side. Jun 9, 2011
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
I've wanted to climb this route for quite a while -- but from the ground it looked very intimidating to me, for a moderate lead. The bolts/pitons appeared to be spaced out pretty far, it's essentially vertical, and it always looked harder than a 5.8 climb. But once I actually got on it (came in from Bob's Buttress side), I found there are amazing holds (not visible from the ground) all the way up, and the feet placements are all there, too. Even the bolts and pitons are exceptionally well placed, in my opinion (again -- now that I've actually climbed it). This is a great climb, and I can't wait to do it again! Sep 18, 2011
Michael LaDue
Boulder, CO
Michael LaDue   Boulder, CO
As of October 2017, there are only 2 bolts on this one. Also not sure how this got less than a 5.9+ rating.... Oct 17, 2017
Ben D.
Colorado
  5.8+ PG13
Ben D.   Colorado
  5.8+ PG13
I climbed this about a month ago (Sept, '17). At the time, there were about 4 or 5 bolts. The first bolt is rather high, but if you start right of the arete (just left of Bob's Buttress Crack) you can climb reasonably safe and reach left around the arete to clip the first bolt. Getting to the second bolt was scarier as a whipper before you clip the second bolt might result in a ground fall given rope stretch. The route description suggests staying left of the arete between the second and third bolts. After several attempts both on lead and TR, these moves appear much harder than 5.8+ and probably clock in closer to solid 5.10. I went right of the arete here, which seemed more consistent with the rest of the grade of the climb. Once the anchors are set, you can TR Death of a Dino, End to End, and Bob's Buttress Crack (set a directional from the anchors on Bob's if you TR it this way). Overall, a really fun and easy area to access and avoids the tourist crowds milling around the rest of the climbs in the park. Oct 28, 2017

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