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Routes in East Face

"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alligator Soup S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Anarchy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Antline T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beat Me Up, Scotty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Sky S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binary T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob's Buttress Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancesatmoonrise aka The Passion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Death of a Dinosaur S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Diesel and Dust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
End of an Era S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
End to End S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inner Sanctum T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Era T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Generation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ormes' Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Sandy Beaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Skyline Pig S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Mike Johnson and Ed (Lou?) Kalina, 1986
Page Views: 3,803 total, 19/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Aug 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Gray Rock Raptor Closure - Lifted Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This is excellent face climbing on the glassy east face of Kindergarten Rock, with generally solid rock and incut holds. End to End is the second bolted route to the right of the obvious New Era dihedral (just left of Bob's Buttress Crack, around the corner), ascending the slightly overhanging northern aspect of the arete past several bolts to a bolted rap station. A 50m rope is sufficient to set up a TR here if desired.

Protection

8 or 9 (6) QDs plus something for the bolted anchor.

Photos

Ben D.
Colorado
  5.10a
Ben D.   Colorado
  5.10a
This is only 10a, but it is sustained 10a from the first bolt to the anchors! A very sporty and well-protected climb that will leave you pumped at the end. Probably not a good one if you are just breaking into the grade on lead. Oct 28, 2017
Aaron Mojica
Boulder, CO
Aaron Mojica   Boulder, CO
The COS codgers like their spice! Great climb, I placed a 0.5 and 0.75 before the first bolt despite the positive incut holds. Newer, beefy bolts help come to terms with the pumped moves to gain the anchor. Aug 2, 2015
Kyle Bichler
Cleveland, OH
  5.10a
Kyle Bichler   Cleveland, OH
  5.10a
Beautiful climb which is a very sustained 5.10 to the finish. A must do along with End Of An Era. Jul 19, 2013
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Very sustained 10! Sharp, solid holds. Either place first pro on the neighboring 5.8, or slip a 0.5 cam in on Bob's Buttress, then climb left back on to End to End. Fun climb. Oct 15, 2012
R Kil
  5.10b
R Kil  
  5.10b
Thank you to Stewart and friends for the rebolting. I was pleasantly surprised last week. Sep 5, 2012
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
I could be mistaken, but I believe the FA was by Mike Johnson and Lou Kalina.

More importantly, has anyone heard anything about what happened to this guy??? If so, please let me know, as he pretty much went M.I.A. close to 8 (?) years ago. Aug 30, 2012
Brian Shelton and I, along with David Mason and Robb Conner, took out the old pitons and rebolted Sandy Monster and End to End with beefy new bolts. Some of the angles were solid, but most came out without too much work. So climb on.... Thanks, Dave and Robb, for buying the hardware! Aug 18, 2012
mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
  5.10a
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
  5.10a
6 QDs plus anchor. I ripped pretty good today on no. 6, and it held like a champ. Oct 12, 2011
EricJochens
Co Springs, CO
EricJochens   Co Springs, CO
Awesome route! Excellent warm up and pumpy crimps straight to the end. Would be excellent if the pitons were retrobolted. Some day I will learn to do this and contribute myself. Try the Death of a Dinosaur on the left-side of the arĂȘte and traverse right to End to End once you reach the first bolts for a really fun climb. Aug 30, 2010
matt bruton
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.10a
matt bruton   Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.10a
Tightened the first bolt and the anchors today. Great route the pitons are still strong and should hold through the rest of the year. Mar 30, 2010
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
  5.10a
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
  5.10a
The moves are continuously 10a, with some fun clips. If this were any more overhanging, it would be 11. Also, a healthy 30' runout on 5.8 terrain to the first pin gets your blood pumping for the rest of this exciting lead.

My only complaint was that it felt a bit contrived, and it was difficult to keep my hands away from the arete to the climber's left and the large crack to the climber's right. Jul 31, 2009
Erik Tullberg
Colorado Springs
 
Erik Tullberg   Colorado Springs
 
I'm glad that someone else noticed that it was sustained. Whew! I also agree about the TR... we did End of an Era and then TR'd End to End. Good thing, too. I would have had a few bruises. Jul 10, 2008
I agree - great route to run laps on. It's getting tougher and tougher to gain the anchor, though. Tie-offs won't do it anymore, as pins are missing. We climbed Bob's crack and toproped off of that to reach the still solid End anchor. Jun 16, 2004
Bring some tie-off's if you intend to lead this--one of the pins is only sunk about 1 1/2"; some of the others aren't much better. This is a good route to run TR laps on: it is sustained, interesting, and has countless variations, due to the plethora of incuts. Don't just lock on to the chalked hold if you run some laps--look and feel around for more and the line can be much more fun. Apr 5, 2002