Type: Trad, Sport, 180 ft (55 m)
FA: Webster and Coyne, 1976
Page Views: 2,313 total · 10/month
Shared By: Ben Glover on Apr 9, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: 2022 Seasonal Closure - lifted (diagonal red/white striped area in photo) Details
Access Issue: 2022 Seasonal Closures Details
Access Issue: New Closure! Details

Description

New as of 2018: this route on this face of the formation is closed to climbing due to wildlife concerns. The impact on brown bats, great horned owls, red tail hawks, and Cooper's hawks have resulted the West face of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock), Keyhole Rock (aka Sleeping Giant), and the area between to be closed for all human uses including hiking and climbing. This information was from Bret Tennis, Garden of the Gods Park Operations Administrator.

First: the name is via Bob's book (I think I've seen others floating around).

SitS is located on the west side of Kindergarten Rock. Find the black, scarred outcropping containing Scarecrow and Monster Crack, then move 30 feet or so right of the right edge. Be looking up for an obvious line of pins heading straight up the rock (that's Footloose and Fancy Free). The ramp to your left (heading up the outcropping) is Lance. If you take a broad look at the face of the rock up and left, you'll note it's got a lot of green stuff on it. I'm no biologist, but I believe that's lichen. Get an idea of the overall size/shape, because you'll be traversing above it.

Climb the first 3 to 4 bolts of FaFF. If you clip the fourth bolt (not a bad option) use a double runner, at least. I prefer a runner long enough to make the fourth bolt redundant to clipping the 3rd. At this point, look left and perhaps slightly up. There are 2-3 pins between you and the rock outcropping WAAAY over there. Fortunately the climbing is fairly light. Sadly, there is some rotten rock along the way. Feel free to sink cams in between the pins. They (most likely) will be lobe down, so plan accordingly.

Once you hit the outcropping, head up (the easy and obvious route being between the outcropping and the rock proper). If you're using a 50m rope, you can climb onto the outcropping and see the anchors for Scarecrow. Unfortunately you'll probably end 20 feet shy. Climb back down into the gully and set an anchor (so bring some extra gear!). Your second can lead the last 20 feet.

Not a great route, but if you're intent on topping the outcropping w/o getting a pump on Monster Crack this is a decent option (Lance, below you, is a bit of a stinker). Positive holds make this a lot of fun, but the sketch factor of the loose rock on the traverse hold it back.

Protection

At a minimum bring a rack of draws, a few long slings, and some large gear (to protect the balance of Lance). Optionally it may be wise to bring some small to medium cams to protect the traverse.

Per Bill Olszewski: 4 pins up and 2 on the traverse.

Getting There

From the GOG staff June 2017: please approach from the South end of the formation, near the Kindergarten Wall.

Photos

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