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Routes in East Face

"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alligator Soup S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Anarchy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Antline T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beat Me Up, Scotty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Sky S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binary T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob's Buttress Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancesatmoonrise aka The Passion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Death of a Dinosaur S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Diesel and Dust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
End of an Era S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
End to End S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inner Sanctum T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Era T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Generation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ormes' Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Sandy Beaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Skyline Pig S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Don Doucette & Mike Dudley, Hazlett, 1960s, FFA Jim Dunn & Stewart Green, 1971
Page Views: 7,139 total, 36/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Aug 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


86 Opinions

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2017 Gray Rock Raptor Closure - Lifted Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

Hike north past New Era and around the corner. Bob's is the slightly overhanging finger to thin hands crack going straight up to a two-pin anchor with a mess of slings. Fun and sustained.

Protection

Standard rack, making sure your "standard rack" includes some smaller cams, one pin. Nothing larger than a #2 Camalot/#3 Friend is needed. 2 bolt anchor with chains.
Ben D.
Colorado
  5.7
Ben D.   Colorado
  5.7
Awesome and easily protected climb! I'm not sure where the 5.8+ grade comes from, because it is mostly 5.6 with one or two 5.7 moves in the crux. It would be a 3 or 4 star route if not for the overwhelming smell of bird shit and piss. Also, you can TR this from the End of an Era anchors if you put a long sling on the "Bob's" anchors for a directional. Oct 28, 2017
So much bird shit. The smell was overwhelming at times. Watch out for the swallows that dart out as you continue up. Fun route if wasn't covered in bird shit. Aug 16, 2016
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Very fun climb! Small-medium cams. 0.5-2 range. Definitely a Garden favorite! Oct 15, 2012
Logan Berndt
Colorado Springs
  5.9-
Logan Berndt   Colorado Springs
  5.9-
Short and pumpy!! Great trad lead and a definite Garden classic! Mar 14, 2012
I got to climb this with the (Great) Jimmy Dunn, I dislocated my shoulder, tore my rotator cuff. Then went on to suffer the New Era right after. I must say I was stupid, and don't try this at home, but GREAT route and I couldn't quit, esp. climbing with one of the best. I'm recovering nicely from my second surgery now, so all is good and I want this route again some day.... Feb 4, 2010
Daniel Battin
Green Mtn. Falls, CO
Daniel Battin   Green Mtn. Falls, CO
Hadn't climbed this thing in about five years until today. Just plain fun 5.8! Aug 5, 2009
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Excellent route on solid rock. Well-protected crack with BD Camalots in the #0.75 to #1 range. I also used a #2. Fell on lead near the top (thanks for the catch, Dan!). The moves were at about the 5.8 level, but it seemed quite sustained to me. I took too long on lead sinking in protection and my arms were worn out by the time I reached the top -- though it's only about a 60 ft pitch. Fun route, though! May 10, 2009
Jeremy Hakes
Golden, Colorado
  5.9-
Jeremy Hakes   Golden, Colorado
  5.9-
No slings on the wall. Sustained! Jun 7, 2008
Great climb, but I'm glad others felt it was sustained! A few years ago when I climbed 3 days a week, this route was no problem. Now after a 3 year hiatus from climbing, I struggled for the majority of the climb. My recommendation is not to waste energy over protecting. 4 pieces of GOOD protection plus the pin will suffice, and you'll have plenty of energy. My mistake was making 10 crappy placements because I never had the strength to get a GOOD piece of pro in the rock and I wasted a lot of stamina. Jul 4, 2004
Larry Shaw
  5.8+
Larry Shaw  
  5.8+
This thing sucks up pro..easy climbing on the bottom to an weird bulge with good jams to an easier top. Would be a good lead for a solid .8 trad leader. May 30, 2004
Kris Carter
  5.9
Kris Carter  
  5.9
Sustained would be a very accurate route description - this made it seem harder in my mind. Not for the new trad leader - I ended up making it some kind of weenie aid climb after running out of strength. Also managed to give my #6 fat cam a good lead fall - my first woo hoo! This climb furthers my opinion that I am a wuss. Just the same worth doing if you are ok with trad & have the stamina - I'll be back eventually to do it the right way. Apr 1, 2004
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
I would add one piece of big protection to your rack, as there is a solid placement for a #4 Camalot toward the top of the climb, a few feet below the only fixed pin on the route. The crux move over the bulge isn't so bad - I tried jamming it, found I wasn't strong enough and made it by with a lieback. There are a couple of finger locks outside of the crack itself that offer decent resting spots.

I'd have to disagree that this is a good first trad lead. A little too sustained, I think. Cowboy Boot Crack or even New Era's first pitch might be a friendlier first run at placing gear, I'd say. Nov 17, 2003
Chris R  
Watch out for bats in the crack about 1/2 way up. Jam with care! Sep 5, 2003
It appears that the slings at the top have been replaced with chains. Whoever did that - thanks :) May 30, 2002
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
I placed several #1 Camalots and a #2 Camalot about two years ago on this climb. This route supposedly goes all the way to the top of the rock. Dec 31, 2001
The slings are gone, and even though this is a short route, this is a Garden classic. The crux is a slight overhang about half way up that requires a big step or some fancy stemming. The hand and finger jams are soid all the way up along with plenty of places to place gear which makes this a fun route for people learning gear placements. Oct 26, 2001