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Routes in East Face

"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alligator Soup S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Anarchy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Antline T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beat Me Up, Scotty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Sky S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binary T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob's Buttress Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancesatmoonrise aka The Passion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Death of a Dinosaur S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Diesel and Dust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
End of an Era S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
End to End S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inner Sanctum T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Era T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Generation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ormes' Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Sandy Beaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Skyline Pig S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mike Johnson, 1991
Page Views: 2,799 total, 18/month
Shared By: Chamo Breslin on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Gray Rock Raptor Closure - Lifted Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This is located a few routes climber's left and down the slope from the New Era dihedral. Look for a line of old fixed pins ascending a flake before trending left about 25 feet off the ground, where the flake peters out. Five feet left of the start is a line of coldshuts leading to a separate anchor, a hard 5.12. Your parter will belay off of a boulder right of the climbing line.

It has excellent rock and fun, steep moves. The thin crux comes between the first and third pins. Though old and some of them protruding more than you'd like, these said pins seem safe enough. There are two old bolts at the top.

Protection

7-8 Garden-style fixed pins.
dancesatmoonrise  
5.11b
This route is harder than 10d. It is possible to move a couple feet right at the first three pins and get the 10d rating, as a friend did today. Going straight up over the pins is harder and is how I've always done it.

Given the sporty nature of the line, I'd rate it using Shelf standards, for which it's pretty clearly around 11b. Way harder than others at the grade in the Garden, and harder than some of the 11a's in the Garden as well. Just my 2c.

Interesting that the low crux is protected by angle pitons while the upper easier climbing uses those manky ringed pitons.

Great route; brilliant moves through the short, well-protected crux. Jul 12, 2013
One of my favorite Garden routes, and while I can't remember ever fallen on it, I feel like if I did, the pins would definitely hold. I trust most of the drilled angles in The Garden, more than the pitted flexing coldshuts I see on neighboring routes. Thanks for replacing the anchors, Stewart. Jan 24, 2012
mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
  5.11-
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
  5.11-
As for Garden Standards, I would take a lead fall on every pin on that route. Oct 22, 2011
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
  5.10d
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
  5.10d
First off, great climb! to the 4th pin involves lots of fun moves on tiny holds and sweet movements. After that, the climbing eases to 5.8+/5.9-.

Also, don't let the comments about the pins scare you off. On a scale of 1-10 for looking safe, I would rate the average garden pin a 3.5. These were at least 6. And the rock is not as soft as the typical red stuff everywhere else. It looks harder from the ground than it really is, don't worry! Jul 31, 2009
Stubby-Ian Howells
Denver, CO
 
Stubby-Ian Howells   Denver, CO
 
Thanks for all your work in replacing stuff over there, Stewart, all the anchors look fantastic now!

Agree with the above. Great route with lots of fun small holds, lots of tensiony moves. The old pins look sketchy, but all of 'em felt bomber, and there's gotta' be one every 6' or so. Aug 13, 2006
Beat Me Up Scotty has a beefy 1/2" bolt with chain and stainless steel ring to back up the two old pitons at the anchors. Thanks to Climbing Magazine and Petzl for donating the replacement gear. Sep 19, 2005
Agreed - great line on excellent rock. The first few clips, in particular, make for fun pulling and body English. Jun 28, 2005
Chamo is right when he says this is an under-appreciated route. Don't let the looks fool you- some of these pins are bomber, and some may not hold body weight. Back up what you can, and take it easy around the third bolt. Sep 4, 2004
In my opinion, a better climb than Diesel and Dust, which the guidebooks talk up more. Aug 11, 2004