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Routes in West Face

Footloose 'N' Fancy Free S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Monster Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scarecrow T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sword in the Stone T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: Harvey Carter and Paul Radigen, 1950s
Page Views: 4,335 total, 21/month
Shared By: William Prehm on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Gray Rock Raptor Closure - Lifted Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This climb is located on the west side of Kindergarten Rock. To get there, park at the Kindergarten Rock parking area. Cross the road and before getting to the formation cut into the wash and follow the trail at the base of the rock around the backside. Along the backside there will be an outcropping of rock (maybe 500 feet or so), the crack is located on the left side of this formation.

The rock is a little loose at the start and can be protected using some small gear (Aliens, micro cams). As you climb higher, the crack widens and the bigger stuff is needed. Save a very large cam for the last 15 feet before the ledge. There are bolts on the ledge to anchor and rappel from.

Protection

Bring the big stuff. A very large cam is needed to protect the last few feet of the climb. I think that I used a #5 Camalot.

Getting There

From the GOG staff June 2017: please approach from the South end of the formation, near the Kindergarten Wall.
Alexander K
The road
 
Alexander K   The road
 
There is currently a dead pigeon lodged halfway up the crack. A (new) #5 would have been nice, but a tipped out #4 works just above the pin. If you want to walk something up the offwidth, probably bring a #6. May 18, 2016
There is a fun route above Monster crack to the top of the formation. Continue up from the belay about 30ft and head up and left following the line of least resistance. I didn't locate any old pitons :-/. It is only 5.4 or so but is about 160ft with 3 slung horns and a 0.75 cam placement. Very fun, airy and exposed, run out but on quality Kindergarten-style rock.

Descent: scramble to the left along a large grassy ledge and downclimb class 3ish rock to get near the base of the route or continue up another 25 ft and reach the summit! Jul 25, 2013
Kyle Rodman
  5.8+ PG13
Kyle Rodman  
  5.8+ PG13
Lots of fun. Try using both sides of the big flake on the top section as opposed to liebacking or taking the crack straight on. Feels very exposed and airy. Jun 30, 2013
Ryan Chelstowski
Colorado Springs, CO
Ryan Chelstowski   Colorado Springs, CO
Aid roped soloed this today in high winds, added to the mental side. I would say a #4 Big bro is the key piece to have for the top to keep it comfortably safe. Feb 2, 2013
I placed a blue Bigbro on the really wide section as that is all I had. As I climbed passed it, I kicked it out. Having no protection for the last part was good motivation not to fall. Head-sized cams would be nice. Good route. Jan 20, 2012
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Great route -- can layback from the ground to the anchors. Take BIG gear to protect. I placed a #5 Camalot about 15 ft from the top, and anything smaller would have been two small. I also used a #4, two #3 cams, and a few #2s on the route. The crack really protects well, if you have some bigger cams. There's still one very old piton with a ring on it about 2/3 the way to the top. Fun route if you're in The Garden. Jun 9, 2010
BWpete
  5.8
BWpete  
  5.8
I lead this up to about 4 feet above the piton, but had to back off when I found the my largest cam was too small (3.5). My partner led the rest of it and used his Bigbros to protect the last few moves up to the top (the green and blue Bigbros). The offwidth section can be done layback, but if you choose to jam it, you have bomber chicken wings, and a knee jam that make it easy. I think the crux is the move from the offwidth/chimney around to the belay ledge. Apr 17, 2005
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Fun route. Feb 27, 2005
Larry Shaw  
 
What a Garden gem...the whole gamut of climbing moves...dihedral to hand crack to chimney to offwidth. Nice and secluded without tourists.... There is one fixed pin on the route, but beware...that thing is bent about 45 degrees, and it's doubtful if it would hold another fall. Bring the #5 cam for the top or a Bigbro if you have one. Rap with one 60m or two 50s. Beware if using one 50m as it comes up about 10ft. short. Nov 17, 2003
This is a great lead for placing rockcentrics/hexcentrics (you can easily sew this up using 2/3's of a set). Bring a stopper (or two, to prevent a zipper) for the bottom. As I recall there is a pin on the right side before the crack goes off-width. Above that you can use large (#4 or #5) cams, but they might slow you down as most people lie-back the finish. The crack is very positive, but if needed, you can exit the lie-back early and face climb on the right of the dihedral.

If you plan on climbing Scarecrow, it might be worthwhile to continue past the anchors to the right up to the Scarecrow/Lance anchors (Scarecrow protects well, but sounds hollow). Climbs over on the west side see few ascents, so may be sandy. Your reward is solitude. Apr 30, 2002