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Routes in West Face

Footloose 'N' Fancy Free S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Monster Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scarecrow T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sword in the Stone T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Access Issue: New 2018 partial West Face Closure Details
Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details
Access Issue: New Closure! Details

Description

New as of 2018: a portion of the west face of this formation (at least from & including Footloose 'N' Fancy Free, 5.8, to & including Footloose 'N' Fancy Free, 5.11- and Fragile Dihedral), and Big Sky is closed to climbing due to wildlife concerns. The impact on brown bats, great horned owls, red tail hawks, and Cooper's hawks have resulted in part of the West face of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock), Keyhole Rock (aka Sleeping Giant), and the area between to be closed for all human uses including hiking and climbing. This information was from Bret Tennis, Garden of the Gods Park Operations Administrator.

This is a reorganizational entry (thanks to Micah) to help facilitate the L->R sorting, because it "really doesn't make sense when you are going pretty much around an entire rock." This subarea will include routes from the West Face.

This face has great views of Pike's Peak.

Getting There

Park on the on the East side of Kindergarten Rock at the South Parking Lot (Parking Lot #10). Walk up around from the South along the base of Kindergarten Rock on established trails.

As of 2018: please do not approach this area (at least from & including Monster Crack, 5.8, to & including Sword in the Stone, 5.8).

White Chalk is not allowed!

The Park staff want to remind the climbing community that white chalk (calcium carbonate) is prohibited in the park due to visual impact. While any chalk use is discourage, chalk substitute that does not discolor the rock may be used. Eco balls are sold at the Visitor Center.

When placing closure signange/notifications, our park rangers noted chalk stains on several routes in the closure area (Anaconda and Grapefruit Dance), as well as the Blowouts bouldering area (which were cleaned last year, meaning all the chalk here is new). We are again hoping that the community can come together and address this issue before it requires any action on our part. Access may come into play! We'd also like to thank the PPCA for their efforts to remove chalk stains in these areas last year and hope that local climbers might consider helping them remove chalk stains from the rock this season- check their website for more info on upcoming events- pikespeakclimbersalliance.o….

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at West Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 42
Monster Crack
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 11
Scarecrow
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 21
Footloose 'N' Fancy Free
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Monster Crack
 42
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Scarecrow
 11
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad
Footloose 'N' Fancy Free
 21
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in West Face »

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Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
What is the 3-4 bolt line at the far south end of the west face? Nov 2, 2011

 
I think it's Family Values. Nov 2, 2011
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Andrew, thanks! So, on the other side of the South face (SE corner), there is another stray? bolt maybe 40' up on a blunt arete line that sort of resembles this, but we didn't see other bolts. What is that? Nov 2, 2011

 
I'm not sure about that one, Leo. Nov 8, 2011

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