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Routes in West Face

Footloose 'N' Fancy Free S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Monster Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scarecrow T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sword in the Stone T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Albert Ellingwood, 1920s
Page Views: 1,629 total, 11/month
Shared By: Ryan Carlino on Apr 9, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Gray Rock Raptor Closure - Lifted Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

An early Garden route - surprised not to see it at this site.

Climb the left side of the large, Scarecrow flake.

Begin on a rock ledge and get into the right-facing dihedral. Climb up to and around (or over) a bulge. Finish up the chimney to the top of the flake and anchors.

Location

On the west face of Kindergarten (Cathedral). A small trail winds its way to the climb through sticker bushes.

Protection

Nuts and cams should get you up. Shares anchors with Scarecrow.

Descent

Per Rich F.: rappel from the two bolts at the top of the route/top of Scarecrow. I rappeled with a single 70m rope and it was no problem. I doubt a single 60m would reach the ground, but may get close enough to downclimb the last several feet.

Getting There

From the GOG staff June 2017: please approach from the South end of the formation, near the Kindergarten Wall.
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I also recommend the intermediate belay above the crux; not only is rope drag a concern but I know from doing Sword in the Stone a few days earlier that communication can be very difficult from top to bottom and vice versa.

There is some protection at the bottom of the chimney sections but not past that. Not to worry, these two sections are short and easy.

To find the rap anchor: once you get above the last chimney, into the bushes, look to your left for a 6' pinnacle. Go through the notch on the far side of the pinnacle (north side) onto a big ledge. The anchor is on the face to your right. Jan 7, 2011
Andito
Colorado Springs
Andito   Colorado Springs
The climbing and protection over the bulge at the beginning were fantastic. Protection in the chimney was dicey at best. I couldn't quite plug a number five cam, and the other placements I had were in questionable rock or shallow cracks. In short, be prepared to more or less solo the chimney portion as a leader. I followed Dave G's advice and belayed my two followers after the crux. There is a good ledge and good protection for that. Rope drag would have definitely been an issue if I'd have waited to belay from the top.
The followers told me the face climbing on the ridge to the left of the chimney was far more aesthetic than my grunt up the chimney. Jun 14, 2010

 
Led today with Rich. A fun climb that doesn't look like it gets much traffic. An early move around an overhanging flake is the crux, followed by a fun chimney mid section and easy scramble at the top. Protects well with a standard rack. I should have used a sling below the crux and belayed Rich up just above the crux as our rope got jammed. Watch out for lots of loose crap, especially in the chimney. I pulled off a hand hold. Used most of my new 70m rope for the fun near-vertical rappel on two old but solid bolts. May 20, 2009
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Climbed this with my son, Danny, today. Enjoyed the route a lot for a 5.6. The route calls for a little face climbing and some chimney/offwidth climbing. It protects well with small to medium cams. This route has a couple of places where it makes you think about the best way up -- like just below the large flake overhang near the start of the route. Fun route, and I don't think it gets much traffic.

Descent -- rappeled from the two bolts at the top of the route/top of scarecrow. I rappeled with a single 70m rope and it was no problem. I doubt a single 60m would reach the ground, but may get close enough to downclimb the last several feet. Nov 8, 2008