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Routes in West Face

Footloose 'N' Fancy Free S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Monster Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scarecrow T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sword in the Stone T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Carter and Zeigler (1967)
Page Views: 1,334 total · 7/month
Shared By: Ben Glover on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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2017 Gray Rock Raptor Closure - Lifted Details
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Scarecrow is located on the west face of Kindergarten/Grey/Cathedral rock. Look for a large plate like outcropping. In roughly the middle of the face is a black (magnesium?) scarred hand crack (located conveniently between Monster Crack and Lance).

To gain access to the crack you'll need to either power up and over a hollow sounding bulge (great texture and seemingly solid jugs) or start a bit right and climb a ramp (allegedly slightly easier, but I haven't taken this route). Either way you'll have a hard time plugging solid gear for the first 20 feet.

Once you've reached the crack, the fun begins. One of two crux's is shortly above the ledge (you'll note 1-2 pitons denoting hard climbing). Climbing is a mix of face and jams on well textured rock. Plow upward and you'll face an easier crux a bit shy of the anchors.

Based on the number of ascents of time, I'd suggest that the rock is more durable than it sounds. If you're not into placing gear in hollow sounding Garden rock, climb lance or monster and belay from the top. You'll need two 50m ropes for the rappel.

Did I mention that this was really well-textured rock?


Nuts and small cams will plug most of the crack. Anchor is two 3/8" bolts.

Getting There

From the GOG staff June 2017: please approach from the South end of the formation, near the Kindergarten Wall.


Kyle Rodman
  5.10b R
Kyle Rodman  
  5.10b R
Great climb and a very fun lead. If it weren't for the first twenty feet, this would be an absolute Garden classic. I found a couple marginal placements behind flakes on the right slab start. Jun 30, 2013
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
Thanks, Stewart! Even better job back in the day! Puts so much into perspective.... Oct 2, 2009
Nice, Bo. Jimmie Dunn and I did the first free ascent on the lead of Scarecrow in 1972. I led that first bit to the ledge, no pro, and belayed. JD led the upper crack. We had top-roped it before, but it was really loose. Sep 28, 2009
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
I finally led this climb today via the direct start. There's a great #0.5 Camalot which protects the overhang at the bottom. Get up to the bulge, then step a little left and you'll see this nice horizontal placement. It's still a bit exciting because of the nature of the rock and the steepness, but if you fall there, you will not deck. Once you gain the ledge, there's plenty of gear in the crack above, so get on this climb! Sep 25, 2009
Rik Anderson
C/S, Colorado/Talkeetna, Alask
Rik Anderson   C/S, Colorado/Talkeetna, Alask
The start is definitely for the bold. If you do the direct start, don't bother with trying to place any gear, you'll just burn your energy for the real fun. I have managed to get in a piece for the mind only, not for the body, now I just climb it. If you don't lead .10+ comfortably don't even try this one. Mar 26, 2006
I'm not sure if fear can be factored into a rating, but if so this might be placed a little higher. Chris R mentioned that it would be difficult to lead a the fist 40 feet are rather void of natural protection. I would recommend, as Larry does, that you take to the right side. It's a great lead for the ballsy, but I wouldn't recommend it to anyone who doesn't consistently climb 5.11 or .12. Sep 4, 2004
I've tried both the direct start and the one 20ft. to the right. Both are very loose and both go virtually unprotected for the first 40ft. I recommend the right start, it's a little safer. Once on the first ledge the climbing is good right away and turns into a nice hand crack near the bad the start sucked or this would be more popular. Nov 17, 2003
Chris R  
This is a climb for the bold, fearless leader. In TR'ing this line last night, I pulled or kicked off three large rocks. The "pull down not out" Garden mantra doesn't help much here, as the rock hasn't really cleaned up with traffic. The lower section of the line is fairly loose rock; more traffic won't help too much. Personally, I wouldn't lead it, not having much confidence leading 10b on scant, hollow pro.This line deserves an "R" rating, there isn't much natural pro in the lower 40 feet.To TR, climb Monster Crack (worthy) or Lance (bomb) to the anchors. We were able to TR with a long cordalette off the anchors (to get over a sharp edge) using a single 60m. Once the cordalette was removed, through, rappelling from a single 60m off the anchors didn't quite reach the ground, short by about 5-10ft.

Not a line I would recommend to the visiting climber, but worth doing if (like myself) you've climbed most everything else at the Garden. Aug 22, 2003

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