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Routes in East Face
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"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Alligator Soup S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Anarchy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Antline T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beat Me Up, Scotty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Big Sky S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Binary T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bob's Buttress Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dancesatmoonrise aka The Passion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Death of a Dinosaur S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Diesel and Dust S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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End of an Era S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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End to End S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Inner Sanctum T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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New Era T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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New Generation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ormes' Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Skyline Pig S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 270 ft (82 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Harvey Carter, 1959 |
| Page Views: | 34,664 total · 119/month |
| Shared By: | William Prehm on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closure - lifted
Details
Per Bret Tennis: I wanted to share that we have lifted the rock climbing closures for Gray Rock in Garden of the Gods.
Previously: the 2023 seasonal closure on the east face/north end are now in place per Bret Tennis, GOG staff. The permanent closures on the south end are still in effect.
The seasonal climbing closure were the same as 2021 in 2022 (which started 3/26/22):
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors and other birds. (These closures will be lifted as the birds' protection allows.)
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant (Keyhole) and Gray Rock (Kindergarten) is PERMANENTLY closed to all activity.
One exception is that Family Values is open.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Older info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The North East face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
New as of 2018: a portion of the west face of this formation (at least from & including Monster Crack, 5.8, to & including Sword in the Stone, 5.8, and Big Sky) is closed to climbing due to wildlife concerns. The impact on brown bats, great horned owls, red tail hawks, and Cooper's hawks have resulted in part of the West face of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock), Keyhole Rock (aka Sleeping Giant), and the area between to be closed for all human uses including hiking and climbing. This information was from Bret Tennis, Garden of the Gods Park Operations Administrator.
Previously: the 2023 seasonal closure on the east face/north end are now in place per Bret Tennis, GOG staff. The permanent closures on the south end are still in effect.
The seasonal climbing closure were the same as 2021 in 2022 (which started 3/26/22):
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors and other birds. (These closures will be lifted as the birds' protection allows.)
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant (Keyhole) and Gray Rock (Kindergarten) is PERMANENTLY closed to all activity.
One exception is that Family Values is open.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Older info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The North East face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
New as of 2018: a portion of the west face of this formation (at least from & including Monster Crack, 5.8, to & including Sword in the Stone, 5.8, and Big Sky) is closed to climbing due to wildlife concerns. The impact on brown bats, great horned owls, red tail hawks, and Cooper's hawks have resulted in part of the West face of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock), Keyhole Rock (aka Sleeping Giant), and the area between to be closed for all human uses including hiking and climbing. This information was from Bret Tennis, Garden of the Gods Park Operations Administrator.
Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2023
Details
Per Bret Tennis, GOG Park Operations administrator: the seasonal closures are the same as in 2023 for 2024.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
UNSTABLE FLAKE **RESOLVED** - December 20, 2023
After a wet spring and summer that made it difficult to coordinate inspection efforts, and a busy fall for city officials and PPCA board members, the PPCA board recently confirmed with GOTG park management that the flake in question has been removed.
This route is located on the east face of Kindergarten Rock. Park at the Kindergarten Rock parking area and walk up the road. You'll see a faint trail on the left side of the road cutting through a field of POISON IVY. Scramble up the steep hill to the base of the prominent crack in the middle of the formation.
You can climb this in two or three pitches. I prefer two.
P1 climb jugs and pigeon shit to a thin layback crack just before the cave belay. Slings are setup here for anchors and rappels. If you decide to rappel from this location, either bring two ropes or rap down to a couple bolts/slings that can be used for the end of P1 if doing this climb in three pitches. 160'.
P2 is runout on moderate terrain to the top, minimal protection options. 110' to the top of the formation. There are 3 fixed pins.
DESCEND by scrambling down 4th Class to the south. There will be bolts to rappel from at the last part of the descent.
This climb is one of the classic climbs of Garden of the Gods.
One or two rope descent
If you have 2 ropes, you can no longer rappel from just below the top, huge ledge. There is a ![]()
with links due east of the mushroom-like boulder. An 80' rap straight down gets you to 2 two bolt anchors of Diesel and Dust with beefy rap rings. A 160' rappel gets you to the ground. If you have only 1 rope, you could rap from the P1 anchors on Alligator Soup.
Per Stewart M. Green: in 2017, the Colorado Springs Parks, Recreation & Cultural Services Department asked the Pikes Peak Climber's Alliance (PPCA) to remove the convenience rappel anchors on top of Gray Rock above New Era. After discussion at last a June 2017 evening's PPCA board meeting, the board voted unanimously to remove the anchors.
If you climb New Era, be aware that you can no longer rappel off the top of the formation. Instead, climbers need to downclimb the South Ridge route to the base of South Slabs. This was done for safety reasons as sport rappellers have dislodged large blocks nearly hitting/killing/maiming climbers below.
Per Stewart M. Green: in 2017, the Colorado Springs Parks, Recreation & Cultural Services Department asked the Pikes Peak Climber's Alliance (PPCA) to remove the convenience rappel anchors on top of Gray Rock above New Era. After discussion at last a June 2017 evening's PPCA board meeting, the board voted unanimously to remove the anchors.
If you climb New Era, be aware that you can no longer rappel off the top of the formation. Instead, climbers need to downclimb the South Ridge route to the base of South Slabs. This was done for safety reasons as sport rappellers have dislodged large blocks nearly hitting/killing/maiming climbers below.
Photos
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