Mountain Project Logo

Routes in East Face

"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alligator Soup S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Anarchy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Antline T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beat Me Up, Scotty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Sky S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binary T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob's Buttress Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancesatmoonrise aka The Passion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Death of a Dinosaur S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Diesel and Dust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
End of an Era S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
End to End S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inner Sanctum T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Era T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Generation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ormes' Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Sandy Beaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Skyline Pig S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 270 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Harvey Carter, 1959
Page Views: 22,602 total, 110/month
Shared By: William Prehm on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


187 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
2017 Gray Rock Raptor Closure - Lifted Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This route is located on the east face of Kindergarten Rock. Park at the Kindergarten Rock parking area and walk up the road. You will see a faint trail on the left side of the road cutting through a field of POISON IVY. Scramble up the steep hill to the base of the prominent crack in the middle of the formation.

You can climb this in two or three pitches. I prefer two.

P1 climb jugs and pigeon shit to a thin layback crack just before the cave belay. Slings are setup here for anchors and rappels. If you decide to rappel from this location, either bring two ropes or rap down to a couple bolts/slings that can be used for the end of P1 if doing this climb in three pitches. 160'.

P2 is run out on moderate terrain to the top, minimal protection options. 110' to the top of the formation. There are 3 fixed pins.

DESCEND: by scrambling down 4th class to the south. There will be bolts to rappel from at the last part of the descent.

This climb is one of the classic climbs of Garden of the Gods.

Protection

Standard rack.

One or two rope descent

If you have 2 ropes, you can no longer rappel from just below the top, huge ledge. There is a with links due east of the mushroom-like boulder. An 80' rap straight down gets you to 2 two bolt anchors of Diesel and Dust with beefy rap rings. A 160' rappel gets you to the ground. If you have only 1 rope, you could rap from the P1 anchors on Alligator Soup.

Per Stewart M. Green: in 2017, the Colorado Springs Parks, Recreation & Cultural Services Department asked the Pikes Peak Climber's Alliance (PPCA) to remove the convenience rappel anchors on top of Gray Rock above New Era. After discussion at last a June 2017 evening's PPCA board meeting, the board voted unanimously to remove the anchors.

If you climb New Era, be aware that you can no longer rappel off the top of the formation. Instead, climbers need to downclimb the South Ridge route to the base of South Slabs. This was done for safety reasons as sport rappellers have dislodged large blocks nearly hitting/killing/maiming climbers below.
In case you were wondering, this can route can be strung together into one pitch easily with a 70m and minimal rope drag as long as you're mindful about extendable placements. If you try it with a 60m, there might be about 5ft worth of simul.

Also, not that it matters no because the anchors are gone, but I think it was a terrible decision. Walking under a cliff when climbers are above you is always a dangerous thing considering rockfall, but that is why we clean routes, not chop anchors! Walking off adds 30-45 minutes on to the adventure especially if you have to hike back up to your gear. That was a serious down grade to the route in my opinion. Aug 31, 2017
NEW ERA ANCHOR UPDATE:

The Colorado Springs Parks, Recreation & Cultural Services Department asked the Pikes Peak Climber's Alliance (PPCA) to remove the convenience rappel anchors on top of Gray Rock above New Era. After discussion at last Thursday evening's PPCA board meeting, the board voted unanimously to remove the anchors.

If you climb New Era, be aware that you can no longer rappel off the top of the formation. Instead, climbers need to downclimb the South Ridge route to the base of South Slabs.

The reason for the removal of the bolt anchors was for the safety of climbers at the base of Gray Rock's East Face. The 196-foot rappel line came down between New Era and Diesel and Dust. There's been an increase in sport rappellers using the anchors to bounce down the face. They've dislodged large rocks several times, almost hitting climbers at the cliff base. Anyone hit with a falling rock would be seriously injured or killed. Jun 26, 2017
bridgermckinney  
  5.7
Super fun route, much better rock than most of The Garden. This felt pretty soft for a 5.7 IMO compared to the other stuff I've climbed around CO. Great route though, good for new leaders too, because pro is very easy. Jun 26, 2017
Graham Montgomery
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.7+
Graham Montgomery   Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.7+
Rapped off of pitch 2 this morning (was late for work). A 70m just barely doesn't make it to the bottom from there. I agree with the rating on this route, but be aware it is very sustained through most of it, and there are plenty of good placements when you need them. This early in the season I got very pumped out right at the crux of pitch 2 or else I would have flashed it. Had to rest on a 0.75 and shake out my arms. Jun 8, 2017
Got chased off P3 by weather, left a painful amount of gear up there: two BD 0.75 (the ultralight one was a gift from my mom...), a BD #10 nut, and 4 QDs. If anybody heads up there soon and by some miracle finds them, I'd really appreciate ($$$) getting them back. Please text me @ 972-800-6490 if a miracle happens. Thanks y'all. May 25, 2017
Byrne  
The walk off is casual. I was a little nervous that we'd be looking around for the right route down, but it's actually hard to miss. Once you've finished the last pitch (where two pitons are driven in...back those up), just head up and downclimb the wall into a gully that has a serious drop off to climber's right. Go left, and follow the gully on up to the summit. Once there, just start picking your way down to the south (left side of the rock as you are facing the route). There are a couple gullies that go down this side, and you just need to stay inside a gully. Occasionally, you may want to turn around and downclimb, but honestly, it is nothing to get too worried over. Once you make it down to the ramp that heads a bit more left, just keep going till you are all the way down.

Don't let the walk down make you nervous.

I also concur with the earlier comment regarding pitch 2 and the lieback. No need to do a lieback at all. Lots of options there, so just take a few breaths, check out the scenery, and then reassess the climbing. Apr 4, 2017
Owen Murphy
Fort Collins, CO
 
Owen Murphy   Fort Collins, CO
 
Just took my wife up this route a little bit ago and noticed that one of the anchor bolts at the top of pitch 1 is loose as shit. You can jiggle it up and down in the bolt's hole. It's climber's right. Just thought the setter should know.... Oct 14, 2015
Daniel H. Bryant
Colorado Springs, CO
Daniel H. Bryant   Colorado Springs, CO
There is a 3 bolt anchor at the summit directly above 'Diesel and Dust', made it down in 3 raps with a 70m.
I ran the first pitch to the alcove (160') and would only recommend it if you have enough gear and are well rested.
Did a short final pitch straight up to 2 pitons, then went behind the face and scrambled up the gully to the summit. Nov 23, 2014
Ryan Derrick
Front Rangia
Ryan Derrick   Front Rangia
Hit it in the morning to stay warm! Feb 24, 2014
Cody Cook
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Cody Cook   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I've been climbing this fine route for years and used to consider its potential as a doable, long, free solo. However, the kids started showing up, and I quickly tossed that idea out the window, as I'd rather live to climb with them than be dead. The boldest thing I've ever done on this line is repeated ascents using only the fixed gear.

Regardless, a buddy and I were wrapping up End to End on Sunday, and as I belayed him I noticed someone approach the base of New Era. After realizing he had no partner, I observed the guy to stretch out his arms a bit, swap out his shoes, throw on a small backpack, and send all of New Era in a matter of minutes. Impressive to say the least. Whoever you are, good on ya, mate. I figured there are probably climbers around that might solo this line regularly, but I've never observed anyone actually do it.

And for another Kindergarten first, there was a rattler at the base of the climber's trail (just a few steps into the trail) that made me jump out of my skin. He was about 2 feet away from my foot when he started rattling.

Be safe out there.... May 28, 2013
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
I've done New Era several times and it remains a classic. Standard rack needed - 60 meter rap works if you rap the route. Oct 15, 2012
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Finally got to finish this route.

A few things: P2's top does not have to be liebacked. You can stem out right with your left hand in the crack to make it much less strenuous. P3 protects decently well. For example, you can get a #1 Camalot (deep and just above the belay) and #0.5 Camalot (creatively where the wide bit narrows) within 10 feet of the belay. P3 is worth climbing, especially with the arete finish. Nov 2, 2011
Rob C.
Freeport, ME
 
Rob C.   Freeport, ME
 
Very nice route, did the start to the left of the main start, good pro, a little loose in a few places - an exciting, vertical lead! Nov 25, 2010
Clifford Mallory
Casper WY
Clifford Mallory   Casper WY
One of my first leads circa 1979 best 5.7 in The Garden. Oct 31, 2010
Scott Rice
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Scott Rice   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Made into one long pitch like aformentioned but was using a 70m. The two pins at the very top of the route are adequate and can be backed up with a #0.75 C4.

I imagine you could rap from these if you wanted to leave some gear behind, or if you continue 25' up and south around the top of the buttress you'll find a good set of 1/2" rap anchors. A 70m will take you right to the top of the first "pitch" to a 1/2" bolt and a solid pin to rap to the ground. Be careful getting your rope stuck in the crack when you pull on the second rap. We chose to go to the lower anchor for our second rap due to the EXTREME amount of accumulated pigeon shit and piss that currently inhabits the alcove belay/rappel station.

Have fun! Great route and great views of the park from the top.

SR Jul 29, 2010
You Colorado Springs climbers are spoiled rotten having this in your backyard and with a 5 minute approach to boot! Simply awesome. Nicer and more quality rock than this is very hard to find, indeed. Rock on, Harvey T! Jul 1, 2010
mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
  5.7
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
  5.7
This route can be climbed in one pitch with a 60m. You can climb all of the way above the belay alcove to a good ledge just before finishing the last 4/5th class to the top. It seems there was an anchor missing at both belay stations for the first two "pitches." Stay left on the second half of the descent and you can walk down the slab without a rope. May 28, 2010
Lordsokol
Boulder, CO
 
Lordsokol   Boulder, CO
 
Just for clarification about the discussion between John and Cody above.... Cody was correct, he was NOT at the New Generation anchors. There are two pitons at the top of the New Era alcove (the very top, by the horn that can be slung). I noticed those pitons go up Spring '06. I used to climb the route several times a week as part of my morning routine. I think the pins are fine, I've rapped off them many times. On a 60m rope, you can rap down to the belay alcove above the splitter crack. From there, you come just a few feet short of the ground. Mar 1, 2010
bigwallrog
the farside
bigwallrog   the farside
Tried to climb this route today and would have made it if not for the wasps that stung the crap outta me about 2/3 of the way up 1st pitch. Don't know if there is a nest there as I didn't hang around for a look. The leader stemmed that section and had no problems.

Just a heads up on the hand jams in that area or if you're placing pro. Two other parties had no problems that we were aware of, but I had let them know, so I assume they stemmed across that area. Aug 9, 2009
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7+
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7+
Climbed New Era today with my wife. One of the best routes in the Garden -- great rock, lots of exposure, variety of moves. Combined the first two pitches to the belay alcove, then rapped back down from there. Solid rap anchors in the belay alcove, but requires two ropes (my 70m rope would have been at least 10m short). Apr 14, 2009
Cody Cook
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Cody Cook   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I'm with ya now, John. Yeah, this is turning into a novel. You were definitely at the New Generation anchors, and I can see why you stopped there if you were rapping from the summit of New Era. They are pretty much directly below.

For fellow climbers - those weren't placed for retreating off of New Era. They're actually the end point of an old, seldom-climbed line. Don't use them. When rapping from the top of New Era, the better method is to just reverse New Era. It may be a bit tricky to get back into the belay alcove, but will save you a headache in the end.

Be safe. Dec 3, 2008
John Maguire
Boulder, CO
 
John Maguire   Boulder, CO
 
Cody,
I really thought I was clear, but you seem to be misunderstanding. We climbed New Era. The entire route. On route. When we got to the top, the objective was to rap down to where we started. On the face of the wall facing the same direction as the New Era route (away from Montezuma's kinda), there are two rappel anchors. If you rappel off of these, you arrive down and two the left slightly at the slung three piton anchor. From this anchor, you have to try to make it back to the first belay on New Era. That is the challenging part. We didn't get to the slung rappel anchors while climbing. It is the second rappel location if you follow what we thought was the usual rap route. It sounds like your saying there is one farther to the left though when looking at the rock. Is that true? My interest has faded in this matter personally. I'm purely trying to warn fellow climbers that the rappel off the top from New Era is not as simple as it may seem (unless we missed something). Be prepared for somewhat of a mystery if you are doing the rappel.

John Dec 2, 2008
Cody Cook
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Cody Cook   Colorado Springs, CO
 
John,
No. Honestly, I wouldn't try to rap off of those anchors. They looked a bit manky to me. When I have found myself at those anchors (a couple of times after climbing the New Generation pitch as a second pitch to Diesel and Dust), I've immediately traversed over to the belay alcove at the top of New Era. This traverse isn't done on rappel. I belay from those crappy anchors and allow my partner to climb over and down into the alcove. He then puts me on belay, and I then make the unprotected traverse to the alcove as well. Again, it's unprotected and dangerous, and I'm not telling anyone else to do it, but this is our preferred method because you basically can't rap off of the New Generation anchors with only one rope and easily make it to any other anchors below (easiest would probably be the D&D anchors, which are down and left).

The other, and safer option for getting off the wall when at the New Generation anchors is to climb up the true final pitch of New Era until reaching the huge horn that marks the end of New Era. From here, one can easily sling the horn and rap straight back down the New Era route. Stopping at either the belay alcove or the pitch 1 anchors on New Era.

Basically, if you were at the top of New Generation, you were off route from New Era. The true final pitch of New Era goes straight up from the belay alcove (somewhat unprotected and easy climbing), not up and directly left to the pins and webbing you found yourself at. However, if you weren't at the anchors at the top of New Generation, then I'm not sure where you were. Was the leftmost anchor made of two stacked pins? Nov 29, 2008
John Maguire
Boulder, CO
 
John Maguire   Boulder, CO
 
Cody,

It is very straightforward to get to the two (or three pitons) connected by webbing, no arguments. Without two ropes though, which direction are you supposed to go? I'm not sure where the other routes you are speaking of are as I'm not that familiar with the area. If you head to the right (while looking at the cliff), you have to make that very tough traverse I mentioned. That traverse aligns you back on the New Era route at the location of the first pitch. Are there rappel rings somewhere to the left (from the webbing)? From the webbing, you can't make it to the bottom without two ropes. The rappel description doesn't mention needing a second rope, so I'm not sure what the best option is here.... Have you done the rappel cleanly with a single rope after gettting to the webbing?

John Nov 29, 2008
Cody Cook
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Cody Cook   Colorado Springs, CO
 
John,
Not sure what anchors you were rapping from. If you did the third, and seldom done, third pitch of New Era, it leads to a huge horn that can be slung for rappel. I remember a few old pins along this pitch for pro but none for anchors. However, there are a couple of old pins at the top of the New Generation pitch (sometimes used as a second pitch for Diesel and Dust). These anchors consist of old pins (left one is actually two pins stacked in the hole) with webbing laced through them. These anchors lie above and directly south (left) of the belay alcove at the top of New Era pitch 2. Perhaps you traversed to these anchors after leaving the belay alcove for your final pitch, as opposed to climbing up to the big horn? This wouldn't be much of a pitch, as these pins are only about 15 feet above and and 15 feet across from the belay alcove. Regardless, if you were rapping from here, it's tough to rap to any other pitch if you only have one rope (two should get to the ground). When climbing New Generation, I've found that it's actually easier to traverse over to the New Era belay alcove, and then make the straightfoward raps to the ground. If rapping from the true summit of New Era pitch 3, it's best to rap right back in to the belay alcove, (or top of New Era P1 if you can make it) and then to the ground. Either way, be safe. If you're forced to traverse rock with no hands on the brake, you're doing something wrong. If you follow the natural line for the third pitch of New Era, the rappel is right back down the route.

Cody Nov 29, 2008
John Maguire
Boulder, CO
 
John Maguire   Boulder, CO
 
Did New Era for the first time today. One of my favorite climbs ever with tons of exposure. Speaking for the rappel, we rapped off the first bolts directly under and left of the summit. This rap went nearly straight down and was fairly straightfoward. Here you have to sling through two pins and probaly leave some webbing. We rappelled down and had to go very far right (looking at the wall) to get to the anchors at the first pitch of New Era. If you plan to do the rappel in this way, make sure you are very comfortable traversing because you will likely have to take both hands off the ATC and traverse towards the pins. Is there a better way to do this rappel? Nov 26, 2008
Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
 
Chris Zeller   Boulder, CO
 
Fantastic route, not to be missed. In fact, the whole scene on the East face of this rock is better than most in the Garden. For one thing, the area is largely free of tourists and the scale of the rock leads to more adventure.

See my comments about the decent on the South Ridge route. Basically we headed off North instead of south and circled around the spire to gain the second gully instead of making the traverse directly. Nov 21, 2008
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
  5.7+
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
  5.7+
Almost a year after the last post and I still feel that P1 anchor is solid. My buddy leaned back on those while I climbed. The pinhead below the crux made me nervous. I wouldn't want to take a fall on it, so I shoved a cam in as soon as I felt the need. Epic climb. Jul 10, 2008
Cody Cook
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Cody Cook   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I agree with Joshua. For those that like to do this route on the fixed gear only, replacing that buttonhead below the lieback would certainly make the last 20 feet a little easier on the nerves. I've never taken a fall on that piece, but I certainly wouldn't want to test it. I think this single piece is much more insecure than the P1 anchors, especially considering that the greatest fall potential on the entire route is on the lieback, not P1. Nov 9, 2007
Joshua Balke
Colorado Springs
Joshua Balke   Colorado Springs
Not sure what may constitute a scary anchor, but pitch one seems fine to me. Climbed it today, and it has one very solid bolt and a old school hammered piton that looks as solid as any I've seen. I'd be more prone to pull the buttonhead on p2, so no one hurts themselves if they take a fall on it than replace belay anchor #1. By the way, pitch 2 belay has one loose bolt, but there are several other belay pitons to add security if you feel uncomfortable. Nov 8, 2007
The anchor at the end of pitch 1 is on the anchor replacement to-do list. Hopefully it will be improved and modernized this autumn after Climbing Mag and Petzl sends some new hardware for the effort. Aug 28, 2007
Nelson
FT Carson
Nelson   FT Carson
Does anyone else out there think the first anchor needs to be replaced? The eye on the BD type angle is extremely poor and the old ring angle...well it's just that old. Such a high use pitch should have a bomber belay anchor. Aug 14, 2007
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
The best part of the climb is the walkoff itself! My partner and I climbed this line finally last weekend, and it was of course quite cold in the shade given the season. Once on top, we looked around the summit area and enjoyed the warmth. I climbed up and down some of the features just for fun. Then we sussed out a line down that was not only easy but full of interesting geological features like boxwork. Such a fun combination downclimb and scramble. We opted to rappel off of the eyebolts on the lower slab instead of using the ramp. Dec 1, 2006
Lordsokol
Boulder, CO
 
Lordsokol   Boulder, CO
 
Looks like there are two fairly new pitons at the top of the route just left and below the horn that most people have used to put a sling around. They are a little rusty (I think it's fairly new rust), but they look like they were placed by someone who knew what they were doing. The pitons are deep and and solid. No apparent fractures around them. Anyway, I slapped a sling in there (olive green) and rapped off. (I backed it up while I watched my partner descend....) It was solid enough and it may eliminate the need for leaving too much crap on the rocks for future climbs.

Side note: the route directly to the right of New Era (first pitch) is CRAP. Very sandy and loose and crumbly. Uncharacteristic of the rocks in the immediate area. If you are planning to lead it... don't. Not worth the effort. Stick to the New Era crack. It's a beautiful climb. Apr 11, 2006
Travis
 
Travis  
 
There is another option to using a sling on the horn at the top. Looking out and around the right side of the horn, over the edge is a step that you can downclimb to. An anchor has been placed there. Our party used this instead of slinging the horn. It's a lot easier to retrieve the rope than slinging the horn. BE SAFE! Nov 7, 2005
Cody Cook
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Cody Cook   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I did this route again today. It's always fun to go out and repeat something that you haven't done in a while, and this a great, exposed route to have so close to home. My partner and I did the first two pitches in one long one (as everyone else recommends) with the direct start, and I agree, this is the best way. We also did the short pitch to the top and left a sling on the large horn with a cold-shut. It's a sand colored sling, and should be good for a little while. Of course, back it up as you feel needed.

Also, we attempted this route two weeks ago but got turned away due to rain. My partner ended up having to lower off the first pitch on a cam, about 20 feet from the ground. We went back shortly after, and it has been retrieved. If you took this cam, please be cool and let me know. Nov 6, 2005
Josh Genz  
 
Just climbed this route today for the first time, this is one of the better Garden climbs. We did the climb in three pitches with the direct start (climb the direct start, much better than the easy climb to the left). My biggest gripe is the lack of anchors at the top-out to rappel from, we had to down climb the incredible sketchy south ridge. May 22, 2005
Ryan C Benson
  5.7+
Ryan C Benson  
  5.7+
Finally did this route after being denied by other parties several times. Good stuff. We ended at the alcove belay and rapped down. Right hanger moves a bit.

Another party that went to the top mentioned that there was no webbing up there and they added a piece. They rapped off with 2 ropes hanging on the webbing - I wouldn't use any webbing up there until it's replaced. May 18, 2005
On previously mentioned rappel above "Alligator Soup" today, discovered that all hangers from top of second pitch of both "Alligator Soup" and "Diesel and Dust" are no longer there. Bolts are still there but the hangers have been taken. So you must do a two rope rappel from the top to get to the anchors at the top of the first pitch. A single rope rappel from the top will get you nowhere but into trouble. Had not read Chris R.'s comment about two 60s getting you to the ground, so didn't try but finished descent with a single rope rappel from the top of pitch one of "Alligator Soup" to the ground. Bottom line: if you don't have two ropes don't try getting down this way until someone lets us know that the hangers have been replaced. And may we make a community New Year's resolution to soundly thrash anyone that we discover has removed hangers from any route anywhere. Jan 1, 2005
Dave Fleury
  5.7+
Dave Fleury  
  5.7+
Spinning bolt at the second belay and the route is kinda getting brittle and sandy. Still kicks butt though. The slings at the top of the route have been replaced by some cordage. Might want to sling that rock a few more times for backup. Oct 3, 2004
Larry Shaw
  5.7
Larry Shaw  
  5.7
Sweet climb...a Garden classic and one of my favorites..almost has a Red Rocks feel to it. Sep 2, 2004
Don't, don't, don't stop to belay at the first anchor!! This classic climb becomes even more classic done as one pitch to the second alcove. No rope drag at all if you do the direct start and use slings. Just be sure to keep a #1 or #2 cam, or both, for the crux at the top. Aug 5, 2004
Dan Battin
  5.7
Dan Battin  
  5.7
Great 2 or 3 pitch climb. I recommend combining the first two pitches. One of the few good reasons to climb in the Garden. Nov 18, 2003
There are two new bolts added at the second belay alcove. Very nice climb with good places for medium pro at the crux 1-2". Nice climb all the way to the top on the airy fin. Nov 2, 2003
Chris R  
Easiest descent from New Era: climb the route to the top-out, then drop into the first easy notch to the east. Find a pair of bolts at a ledge. Three 25m raps with a single cord, or one long rope-stretcher with twin 60s will put you on the ground.

FYI: the left bolt at the top anchors wiggles a bit and doesn't feel really bomber. Someone with the proper judgment and skill might consider replacing it.... Sep 30, 2003
David Danforth
California/Colorado
David Danforth   California/Colorado
Nice, nice climb. One of the better ones in the area I've done. I've only done the first 2 pitches 'cause of the walkoff and prefer rappelling the route which was convenient and a fun rap. The first pitch was pretty fun cruising up the extremely solid rock. Nice set of old anchors. What else is new? They're solid though. The route is kinda funky just above that, though. There aren't too many good places for pro. I don't know what there is deep in the crack to the climber's right, but there were a few semi-solid places to put some medium pro in on the left. There's a single, heaven-sent bolt just below the lieback section. The lieback was straight up awesome. I threw in a cam half way, not completely necessary and probably just made me more tired, but what the hell. The belay is a nice little alcove.... There's actually a little chipmunk, too, who has a home just below the station. Watch out for him (or her). It's a hairy .7, though. So, any leader heading up should be very competent at the grade. Tear it up. -Cheers- Jun 9, 2003
Don't know if they were there when the comments began, but as of 12/31/02, there are double anchors at the top of the rock directly above both "Alligator Soup" and "Diesel and Dust". These can be accessed from the top of the route by walking South along the ridge to the large "V" in the formation. Both sets of anchors are about 10 feet below the path, so you have to look over the edge to locate them. Can't vouch for "Diesel and Dust" descent, but 3 rappels down "Alligator Soup" will get you to the ground. If you have a 50 meter rope, be sure to get your center mark right at the anchors, since all 3 raps a very close to 25 meters. Jan 2, 2003
In light of the discussion about the downclimb, I went ahead and added the S. Ridge of Kindergarten rock as a separate route. It's fairly detailed (IMHO) - so check it out and add comments:) Nov 21, 2002
A classic climb, and deservedly so. While it's composed of the same type of Dakota sandstone as everything else in the park, it appears to have a different quality -- more incut and solid, IMHO. Definitely not a climb for new leaders, I would suggest that the grades here (and, generally, over on Kindergarten Rock) are a little stiffer than those found in the rest of the Garden. Nov 12, 2002
Figured I'd add my two cents about the downclimb - seems to be the buzz about this route. We got to the top of the second pitch just as the last traces of light disappeared and made the downclimb in almost total darkness. It was a bit frightening but really not that difficult, just use caution! There are some rap anchors near the bottom that seem to be just to the right (looking down) of what I believe Bryson is describing as the low angle ramp (which looked too foreboding in the darkness).

Regards Sep 26, 2002
The large block that is mentioned as a possible rap anchor in the comments above can be reached in one pitch from the ground with a 60m rope. The downclimb is not so bad, just watch where you are going and you'll be fine. No need to rap at the end of the descent, cut left (facing down the rock) and look for a low angle ramp that leads to the gound. May 29, 2002
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
About a year and a half ago my friend lost his #2 Camalot on this route. The cam was gone on the following day when he went back to get it. Be careful about placing cams at the crux lieback at the top of the first pitch. This crack is notorious for snagging gear, especially cams in the #2 Camalot range. I suppose someone acquired a #2 Camalot that day. As Dave mentioned, the descent is a bit sketchy. I have always exited the summit via the downclimb and have never rap'd from the top, but sounds like a good idea. I have almost always used the downclimb (once in the dark!), so be careful. Shane Dec 31, 2001
Watch out for hornets (or wasps. I didn't have time to get a good look at them but I know they sting!) on the first pitch. They will make the climb a little more exciting. Dec 19, 2001
I give this rap beta, because the descent mentioned above is quite tricky. There may be an easier way, but the way I have done it requires some easy 5th downclimbing which could well scare an inexperienced climber. Since this is a great moderate, it is good to know that an alternate descent exists. Nov 28, 2001
The two drilled pins mentioned as the anchor mid-pitch 1 are good for drilled angles but very old ring angle pitons. There is okay gear on the last pitch, but it is very tricky to find. If one leaves slings around the fridge-sized knob on the summit, a rap can be made to the anchors at the top of the second pitch of Diesel and Dust, and then another to the first anchors and to the ground. One 60 meter will get you down this. Nov 28, 2001