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Routes in East Face
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"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Alligator Soup S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Anarchy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Antline T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beat Me Up, Scotty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Big Sky S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Binary T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bob's Buttress Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dancesatmoonrise aka The Passion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Death of a Dinosaur S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Diesel and Dust S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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End of an Era S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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End to End S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Inner Sanctum T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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New Era T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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New Generation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ormes' Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Skyline Pig S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 140 ft (42 m) |
| GPS: | 38.87475, -104.87948 |
| FA: | Bob & Carrie Robertson, 1994 |
| Page Views: | 2,000 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | matt bruton on Oct 19, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2026 Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Bret Tennis, GOG Park Operations administrator: the seasonal closures are the same as in 2021-5 for 2026.
Seasonal climbing closure as of March 2026:
For current and updated seasonal climbing closures, click here: coloradosprings.gov/cultura….
The seasonal closures will be the same as in 2018-2025.
Per Bret Tennis, 9/14/25, Park Operations Admin, GOG: we have removed the rock climbing closures for Gray Rock, (Kindergarten Rock). We still have the closures on North Gateway Rock. I expect to remove those around the first week or so of October.
Thank you!
Per Bret Tennis: the rock climbing closures for Gray Rock in Garden of the Gods are the same as from 2021-24
Previously: the 2024 seasonal closure on the east face/north end are now in place per Bret Tennis, GOG staff. The permanent closures on the south end are still in effect.
The seasonal climbing closure were the same as 2021-2 (which started 3/26/22):
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors and other birds. (These closures will be lifted as the birds' protection allows.)
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant (Keyhole) and Gray Rock (Kindergarten) is PERMANENTLY closed to all activity.
One exception is that Family Values is open.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Older info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The North East face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
New as of 2018: a portion of the west face of this formation (at least from & including Monster Crack, 5.8, to & including Sword in the Stone, 5.8, and Big Sky) is closed to climbing due to wildlife concerns. The impact on brown bats, great horned owls, red tail hawks, and Cooper's hawks have resulted in part of the West face of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock), Keyhole Rock (aka Sleeping Giant), and the area between to be closed for all human uses including hiking and climbing. This information was from Bret Tennis, Garden of the Gods Park Operations Administrator.
Seasonal climbing closure as of March 2026:
For current and updated seasonal climbing closures, click here: coloradosprings.gov/cultura….
The seasonal closures will be the same as in 2018-2025.
Per Bret Tennis, 9/14/25, Park Operations Admin, GOG: we have removed the rock climbing closures for Gray Rock, (Kindergarten Rock). We still have the closures on North Gateway Rock. I expect to remove those around the first week or so of October.
Thank you!
Per Bret Tennis: the rock climbing closures for Gray Rock in Garden of the Gods are the same as from 2021-24
Previously: the 2024 seasonal closure on the east face/north end are now in place per Bret Tennis, GOG staff. The permanent closures on the south end are still in effect.
The seasonal climbing closure were the same as 2021-2 (which started 3/26/22):
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors and other birds. (These closures will be lifted as the birds' protection allows.)
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant (Keyhole) and Gray Rock (Kindergarten) is PERMANENTLY closed to all activity.
One exception is that Family Values is open.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Older info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The North East face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
New as of 2018: a portion of the west face of this formation (at least from & including Monster Crack, 5.8, to & including Sword in the Stone, 5.8, and Big Sky) is closed to climbing due to wildlife concerns. The impact on brown bats, great horned owls, red tail hawks, and Cooper's hawks have resulted in part of the West face of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock), Keyhole Rock (aka Sleeping Giant), and the area between to be closed for all human uses including hiking and climbing. This information was from Bret Tennis, Garden of the Gods Park Operations Administrator.
Access Issue: 2026 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2021-5
Details
Per Bret Tennis, GOG Park Operations administrator: the seasonal closures are the same as in 2021-5 for 2026.
Seasonal climbing closure as of March 2026:
For current and updated seasonal climbing closures, click here: coloradosprings.gov/cultura….
The seasonal closures will be the same as in 2018-2025.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods were lifted for the season.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Seasonal climbing closure as of March 2026:
For current and updated seasonal climbing closures, click here: coloradosprings.gov/cultura….
The seasonal closures will be the same as in 2018-2025.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods were lifted for the season.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
Climb New Era's rightmost finger crack start to the old angle iron bolted face. Keep your eyes open for loose rock on this one.
Photos
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