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Routes in East Face

"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alligator Soup S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Anarchy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Antline T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beat Me Up, Scotty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Sky S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binary T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob's Buttress Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancesatmoonrise aka The Passion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Death of a Dinosaur S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Diesel and Dust S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
End of an Era S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
End to End S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inner Sanctum T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Era T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Generation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ormes' Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Sandy Beaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Skyline Pig S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ric & Cindy Geiman, 1994
Page Views: 1,185 total, 16/month
Shared By: matt bruton on Oct 19, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Gray Rock Raptor Closure - Lifted Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This ascends a great thin face left through the black band crux to good edges. Traverse back right, .12a, and straight to the anchors.

"One of the Gardens most difficult routes." -Ric Geiman

Location

This lies between Skline Pig and Beat Me Up Scotty.

Protection

7-8 bolts.

Photos

Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
This was the last route on all of Kindergarten that I had to do, and I found it to be very very good! I'm kind of sad I put it off so long! The crux is undoubtedly through the black band (at bolt 3) and slowly eases up for a tad then one more crux hits as your feet deteriorate (literally crumble...). A must do do for the grade and definitely one of the harder climbs in the Garden. I might give it 12b/c. Still hard and fun on great(ish) rock (Garden Standards). Thanks, Ric, for the climb! Apr 15, 2014
Route name confusion is a result of a couple of old guidebooks that got the names wrong. This one is Anarchy. FA in 1994. Felt like mid-12 to me back in the day. Jan 19, 2013