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Routes in East Face

"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Alligator Soup S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Anarchy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Antline T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beat Me Up, Scotty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Sky S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Binary T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob's Buttress Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancesatmoonrise aka The Passion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Death of a Dinosaur S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Diesel and Dust S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
End of an Era S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
End to End S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Inner Sanctum T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Era T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Generation T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ormes' Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Skyline Pig S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ric & Cindy Geiman, 1994
Page Views: 1,337 total · 16/month
Shared By: matt bruton on Oct 19, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: New 2018 partial West Face Closure Details
Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This ascends a great thin face left through the black band crux to good edges. Traverse back right, .12a, and straight to the anchors.

"One of the Gardens most difficult routes." -Ric Geiman

Location [Suggest Change]

This lies between Skline Pig and Beat Me Up Scotty.

Protection [Suggest Change]

7-8 bolts.

Photos

Route name confusion is a result of a couple of old guidebooks that got the names wrong. This one is Anarchy. FA in 1994. Felt like mid-12 to me back in the day. Jan 19, 2013
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
This was the last route on all of Kindergarten that I had to do, and I found it to be very very good! I'm kind of sad I put it off so long! The crux is undoubtedly through the black band (at bolt 3) and slowly eases up for a tad then one more crux hits as your feet deteriorate (literally crumble...). A must do do for the grade and definitely one of the harder climbs in the Garden. I might give it 12b/c. Still hard and fun on great(ish) rock (Garden Standards). Thanks, Ric, for the climb! Apr 15, 2014
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.12c
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.12c
Great route! If your feet stay on, you'll send! I also think the grade is totally dependent on finding the right feet and balance. Felt honest for 12c, but maybe my beta wasn't the best.... Apr 15, 2018

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