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Routes in P-Wall

Back Surgery S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Streak S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dark Side of the Moon T,S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Direct Exposure T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dyno Dogs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energy Crisis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Epidural T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flinging Moss at the Molson Belay S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Free For All S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden Party S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hanging Teeth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Impacted Stool Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Indecent Exposure T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump For Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Just a Local Nobody T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knee Surgery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Leche S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leapin' Lizards T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Letterman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mickey's Carnal Desire S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oh My! T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Out of Hangers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
P-Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
P-Wall Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Poor Man's Cave (variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poor Man's P Crack T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pump Floyd T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route Canal T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Rusty's Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slime and Dine T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sofa King Great T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spring Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spring Route (Direct Variation) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze Job T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Description

While Cracked Wall might be the most popular wall, P Wall is the most classic. How can it not be, what with the old painted "P" for Poly looming above, its possibilities for trad leads, and it's vertical face? Check out P Crack, the most classic route on the face.

Getting There

Take the main trail up, and then just before the trees, take the climber trail up right. It will be the first left through the trees. The approach is pretty gnarly - it could probably use some earnest developing to make it safe. I once dislodged a boulder as big as I was on the approach, so be careful

35 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at P-Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 26
Rusty's Cave
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 10
Hanging Teeth
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 72
P-Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
Stage Fright
Trad, Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 24
Impacted Stool Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 15
Knee Surgery
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 17
Dyno Dogs
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 15
Out of Hangers
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 13
Jump For Joy
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 24
Epidural
Trad, Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Poor Man's P Crack
Trad, Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 20
Pump Floyd
Trad, Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 11
Sofa King Great
Trad, Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
Free For All
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
La Leche
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rusty's Cave
 26
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Hanging Teeth
 10
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
P-Crack
 72
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Stage Fright
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Impacted Stool Crack
 24
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Knee Surgery
 15
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Dyno Dogs
 17
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Out of Hangers
 15
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Sport
Jump For Joy
 13
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Epidural
 24
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport, TR
Poor Man's P Crack
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Pump Floyd
 20
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Sofa King Great
 11
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport
Free For All
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
La Leche
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
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Slater  
John, I guess the topo is wrong then. Route Canal starts up the face in front of the tree. Then climb to a bolt, up a shallow groove, to marginal pro, then to the roof flake. There are two bolts just above that to protect the crux. (Hanging Teeth original start is 20' left at bolts mentioned - too close together and too low to be of any use, then traverses right in to flake). Just wanted to clear that up, less someone sees the topo and thinks it's a sport climb with three bolts on the bottom.While we're on the subject, does Jump for Joy have two more bolts at the top? It used to be pretty scary with two bolts. And you got searched at Romualdo while KEN was with you... that explains everyt Mar 20, 2005
Tom, and others that may be interested,

I led Jump for Joy about a month ago. Man, I was so gripped I can't even say for sure how many bolts there were, but I think that there were, indeed, four of them. Jon Hanlon followed and may remember better.

John Knight's topo shows them fairly well spread out over the route. This is not quite correct - three are down low with a fourth coming after a loooong, unprotected runout section. There is supplemental gear down low, and above the last bolt there is thin gear in the area of the painted "P" but not in between the 3rd and 4th. The runout sections are around 5.6, though.

I think this is one of the best climbs on the hill. Very high quality. We started from the lower P-Crack anchors and made it all the way to the Letterman anchors. Does anyone know if you can go from the ground to the Letterman anchors via Jump for Joy? What about from the "belay bolt" above the tree? Mar 21, 2005
Slater  
Bob, good lead man.

Would you have liked it as much if the other two bolts weren't there (not being sarcastic)? You said you were pretty gripped with four. The origianl route went with only two. Now what... Seems like if they were retrobolted then they should go. Yet, you loved the route with four (but maybe not with only two?). Hmmm...a real life problem. Mar 22, 2005
On the subject of two extra bolts on Jump for Joy...

I do not condone retrobolting, nor do I take a strong stance on the removal of same. As I have said in open forums in the past, I have never placed or removed a bolt in my life, but I am always happy to clip a good one!

That said, I can assure you that Jump for Joy is still plenty spicy with 4 bolts. I would now characterize it as "R" as opposed to "R/X" as indicated in Slater's guide. It is a somewhat reasonable undertaking now, which means that many more climbers will be able to enjoy this beautiful section of rock leading right up the center of P Wall in the most prominent position on the entire mountain.

According to both Slater's current guide and Gulyash's 1986 guide, Sampson and Cirone established Jump for Joy, P Wall Direct, and Thin Man all within a few years of each other. All three climbs are very serious undertakings. (These guys were true hardmen!) Yet, in prior discussion on this website, Thin Man has been revered as sacred, while the other two appear to have not received this same treatment and consideration.

What's the difference?

Finally, to specifically address the question asked of me - I would love to climb Jump for Joy again as is, but would think long and hard about attempting it with just two bolts. This sentiment stikes right at a core difference in thinking among climbers between the sanctity of the first ascent party's style of ascent and the use of the commons by many...

I personally follow Dwight Kroll's sentiment in a recent entry on this website regarding the controversy surrouding another climb at Bishop's - just smoke one up and enjoy the climb for the experience of being out in nature. Mar 24, 2005
Slater  
Thanks for being honest about my question (sorry, used the wrong name).

I don't know why Thin Man is sacred. More have climbed it? Inspired by Tobin? Better route? Good question.

More questions... By leaving the two new bolts on Jump for Joy (regardless of how much some like them), aren't we condoning retrobolting? That's what it is. We're saying to that person who did it, "You can retrobolt and if we approve we'll leave them, but if not, we'll chop them". That doesn't seem right. It's either right or wrong, isn't it? Otherwise we're setting a dangerous precedent.I think that's the difference between then and now. Back then, those suckers would have been gone in a week. Are we getting softer? Is the line moving? Mar 25, 2005
Jon Hanlon   SLO
The situation on P Wall has changed significantly in the past 10 years. Jump for Joy was retrobolted, Letterman was retrobolted, Toprope anchors added, Crow bars on P-Crack, etc.

Historically, there were two bolts on the lower section of Hanging Teeth, which starts off the pedestal behind the oak tree. A bolted rap station has been added up and left the pedestal, and another bolted rap station was added high up on the route. The higher one has since been removed, and the lower one sits unused. Evidently it was added as a Jump for Joy anchor, but Jump for Joy does not start from the ground, it starts from the base of P Crack. Maybe this is a worthy new line ("Jump for Joy Direct")...I don't know, I haven't climbed it that way. In any case, the rap station is unnecessary and should be removed (perhaps converted to a lead bolt?).

Regarding Jump For Joy:
I led this route yesterday and found four bolts on the route. We thought it was a great route. A direct start may be possible from the ground, but the original route begins from the bolted anchors at the base of P Crack. Someone has crow-barred the block out from this belay so is is now much less comfortable. I have posted a revised photo showing my understanding of the routes as they exist. Oct 21, 2007
Won't say how many of these climbs on PWall and CW and Shadow went "solo"....but I knew (and don't recommend anyone do it) "several people" who did. Looking back it was part of the deal/challenge to be "way out there" on an R or X or...solo ...and not scare yourself into never climbing again. Dec 1, 2013

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