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Routes in P-Wall

Back Surgery S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Streak S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dark Side of the Moon T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Direct Exposure T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dyno Dogs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energy Crisis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Epidural T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flinging Moss at the Molson Belay S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Free For All S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden Party S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hanging Teeth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Impacted Stool Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Indecent Exposure T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump For Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Knee Surgery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Leche S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leapin' Lizards T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Letterman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mickey's Carnal Desire S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oh My! T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Out of Hangers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
P-Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
P-Wall Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Poor Man's Cave (variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poor Man's P Crack T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pump Floyd T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route Canal T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Rusty's Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slime and Dine T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sofa King Great T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spring Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spring Route (Direct Variation) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze Job T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, TR, 110 ft
FA: Ed Keefe & Menzo Baird (1989)
Page Views: 741 total, 5/month
Shared By: John Knight on Sep 11, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

To find this route, just look right of P-Crack. It follows the obvious "black streak". This route shares the middle and upper P-Crack anchors. If lead from the ground, this route is over 100'. You can top rope the route after climbing P-Crack. To top rope, your climber will need to climb up about 20' of 4th class in the BIG crack that leads to the 1st P-Crack anchors (or bring a 70 meter rope!). The bolts are currently the original quarter-inchers placed by Ed & Menzo in 1989. They include some home made hangers to boot. Lichen adds another interesting element. This could be a really great route if properly cleaned & re-bolted.

Protection

If led from the ground, bring a bunch (8?) of draws and small pro. The lower section is lead with gear, while the upper section has 3 bolts.

Photos

Feels 10d or 11a to me. Easily top roped from P Crack anchors using a Black Streak bolt as a directional. Difficulty maybe has changed over the years due to holds coming off? Nov 7, 2017
Jon Hanlon
SLO
  5.10b R
Jon Hanlon   SLO
  5.10b R
I am happy to see the .10b consensus...I thought it was just me! Apr 10, 2008
vincent L.
Redwood City
5.10b R
vincent L.   Redwood City
5.10b R
The route is pretty clean these days. It is runout and a few of the bolts are old and don't inspire much confidence.

It is a pretty good route though with good moves on mostly solid rock. Apr 9, 2008
Jon Hanlon
SLO
  5.10b R
Jon Hanlon   SLO
  5.10b R
Desperate!

I would be too scared to lead this thing even with new bolts! As it is, I wouldn't even hang a houseplant from those bolts.

I tr'd it expecting "5.9+" but I would agree with the "at least .10a" opinion. I guess I would call it 5.9 plus one. Oct 28, 2006
"I'd be happy to replace the bolts (and clean lichen) "

Watch it John! Remember what happened the last time you "cleaned lichen"?! Sep 13, 2004