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Routes in P-Wall

Back Surgery S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Streak S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dark Side of the Moon T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Direct Exposure T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dyno Dogs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energy Crisis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Epidural T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flinging Moss at the Molson Belay S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Free For All S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden Party S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hanging Teeth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Impacted Stool Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Indecent Exposure T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump For Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Knee Surgery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Leche S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leapin' Lizards T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Letterman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mickey's Carnal Desire S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oh My! T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Out of Hangers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
P-Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
P-Wall Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Poor Man's Cave (variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poor Man's P Crack T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pump Floyd T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route Canal T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Rusty's Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slime and Dine T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sofa King Great T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spring Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spring Route (Direct Variation) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze Job T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Paul Clarke & Ed Sampson, 1976.
Page Views: 83 total, 2/month
Shared By: Steve Blevins on Jul 6, 2014
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Same start as Rusty's Cave. Work up face to right slanting crack. After crack runs out, head straight up broken obvious weakness. After a few steep pumpy moderate moves, Rusty's Cave traverses left, but Energy Crisis continues straight up the steepening wall to a smallish hanging tooth. Getting to the tooth appears to be the crux, but there are more difficulties past the tooth. At about 20' past the tooth, the difficulty eases a bit, trend left looking for the belay station anchors. There is a lot of lichen in places, but that won't be your main concern.

Location

This route starts at the left edge of the step/col between the P-wall Pinnacle and P-wall, just to the left of Epidural.

Rappel with 70m rope.

Protection

The protection is challenging but there. There are no protection bolts. A set of nuts and a double set of cams to blue will make the climbing less R and lower your stress.

Photos

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Worthy route. The position, length, and fun moves more than make up for the chossiness. All trad gear and only trad gear (unusual for Bishop Peak) gives EC, for me, its charm. I went left up high and finished at the "Poor Man's P Crack" anchors. A small cam can be placed as a directional about 30 feet below and 15 feet to climber's right of the PMPC anchor if you want to top rope EC from the PMPC anchors. Sep 18, 2016