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Routes in P-Wall

Back Surgery S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Streak S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dark Side of the Moon T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Direct Exposure T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dyno Dogs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energy Crisis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Epidural T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flinging Moss at the Molson Belay S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Free For All S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden Party S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hanging Teeth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Impacted Stool Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Indecent Exposure T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump For Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Knee Surgery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Leche S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leapin' Lizards T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Letterman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mickey's Carnal Desire S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oh My! T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Out of Hangers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
P-Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
P-Wall Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Poor Man's Cave (variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poor Man's P Crack T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pump Floyd T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route Canal T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Rusty's Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slime and Dine T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sofa King Great T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spring Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spring Route (Direct Variation) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze Job T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Bello, Keefe '90
Page Views: 901 total · 5/month
Shared By: Chad Hinkle on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Approach P wall. When you get there turn right and make your way along the base of the rock, then climb the 4th class notch. When you are at the top, you are there, look up and follow the bolts. There is said to be a dyno on the route, but it seems a bit slabby to be hucking for holds. I was able to do it static. The end is a bit run out, but easy climbing if you have made it that far.

Protection

3 bolts, then a bit run out to a two bolt belay.

[ed. note: 4/04 - two ¼” buttonhead bolts replaced in same holes w/12mm SS Fixe ASCA bolts.

Photos

The dyno thing was just to try and have the most fun on the route we could and the name sounded catchy...we did it static too. Dec 1, 2013
Ryan Nevius
Estes Park, CO
  5.10a
Ryan Nevius   Estes Park, CO
  5.10a
This route is a good alternative to the start of Spring Route. Not sure when dynoing would be appropriate though. With the right feet, even shorter climbers should be able to make the moves statically. Short crux moving past bolt #1. Mar 10, 2012
John Knight
  5.10b PG13
John Knight  
  5.10b PG13
With the assistance of Jon Hanlon & Theron Moses, we replaced the bolts on Dyno Dogs (2 bolts), Leaping Lizards (2 bolts) and the 1 bolt on Spring Route. You can now lead these climbs with confidence! Mar 6, 2004
John Knight
  5.10b PG13
John Knight  
  5.10b PG13
There are 2 routes right next to each other at the corner. One is hard (Dyno Dogs) and one is not quite as hard (Leapin' Lizards). Dyno Dogs is 5.10a and most people "huck the moves" but I'm sure you could do it static (see previous comment), but it wouldn't be as fun. The other is Leapin' Lizards is rated 5.8, but I give it a 5.9. Might even be 10a. Leaping Lizards starts under the oak tree right at the corner. Both start with a couple of bolts and you can either connect up into the slightly off route bolt on Spring Route or go straight up to the anchors on runout but easy ground. Easy to wiggle in some small cams on the way. Once at the anchor, you can go left over the roof or right and check out a couple of newer climbs that can be easily top roped (or led!). These are all great routes with fantastic views for both the belayer and climber. It's rarely visited, so you're almost guaranteed to have the area to yourself. Try Spring Route & Rusty's if you're over there. Dyno & Lizards both have new bolts! Feb 19, 2004

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