P-Wall Direct [Suggest Change]
Avg: 2 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft|
|Page Views:||1,178 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Tom Myers on Apr 28, 2004|
|Admins:||andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Description [Suggest Change]
This route is between Hanging Teeth and Slime and Dine. The upper portion merges with the Cave to "P" route. It is at the center of the P Wall face so an ascent of it captures the essence of the wall. The first 40 feet(approx) has no useable protection that I could find so be prepared to be run out at 5.4. The start is directly below the first bolt (approx 50 feet up). There is a moderatly angled apron with a hairline fracture in it and leading to the right of a rt-facing dihedral. Above that the grade steepens on good holds and 10 feet below the bolt are some shallow but bomber cracks for tri-cams, or other, to protect the rest of the way to the bolt. From the bolt traverse right to a splendid crack(the crux but well protected). The crack is just right of a brown water chute. From here continue straight up to find 2 more bolts and a new belay/rappel station(not sure why these are here) on the left side of the large hanging flake. I prefer to continue up the left-facing dihedral and belay in a small alcove not far from the summit. Close by are anchors at the top of Letterman. The varied terrain and airy environs make for a great climb.
Protection [Suggest Change]
4 bolts, tri-cams, stoppers, CU, to 2 inches. Protection useable for shallow placements and 3-pt contact is always prefered at Bishop's.