Mountain Project Logo

Routes in P-Wall

Back Surgery S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Streak S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dark Side of the Moon T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Direct Exposure T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dyno Dogs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energy Crisis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Epidural T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flinging Moss at the Molson Belay S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Free For All S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden Party S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hanging Teeth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Impacted Stool Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Indecent Exposure T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump For Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Knee Surgery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Leche S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leapin' Lizards T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Letterman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mickey's Carnal Desire S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oh My! T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Out of Hangers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
P-Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
P-Wall Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Poor Man's Cave (variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poor Man's P Crack T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pump Floyd T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route Canal T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Rusty's Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slime and Dine T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sofa King Great T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spring Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spring Route (Direct Variation) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze Job T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: FA: unknown 1975-1980, via bolt ladder. FFA of lower section: Ken Klis, 1986. FFA of extension over roof: Ryan Bello, 1992.
Page Views: 1,169 total, 18/month
Shared By: Ryan Nevius on Jul 15, 2012 with updates
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb past the undercling a couple of moves off the ground to a series of pockets and crimps. Reach high and left for the arete and pull onto it (the crux). Follow the technical grooves to the set of chains at the top of the route.

Location

On the far right side of P-Wall, just to the left of Pump Floyd and to the right of La Leche.

Protection

8 bolts (bolts 1 - 4 replaced March 2015) plus optional gear for flared crack. The route is well-protected.
Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
  5.11a
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
  5.11a
FFA of lower section: Ken Klis, 1986 (was just referred to as "freed the bolt ladder," no name)
FFA of extension over roof: Ryan Bello, 1992 (extension traverses climber's right and pulls roof of left-facing corner)

Additional route history from Ken Klis:

"There was an old bolt ladder there in about 1986 that I freed, which ended at the first no hands rest. I think 5 or 10 years later it was chopped and rebolted, and also extended way out right over the left corner. I have not done the extension and it is one of the very few routes at BP that I haven't been on ever. I should go do it but it is dirty.

The new lower bolts (version 2) were poorly placed. Haven't been on the latest version you guys did but can't be any worse than version 2.

There was about 8 or 10 active climbers around then, and I don't recall anyone knowing who drilled the original ladder. I would guess around 75 or 80. Must of been before Gulyash and Perko." Apr 19, 2017
FA unknown 1970's?

FFA 1986 Jan 11, 2016
Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
  5.11a
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
  5.11a
Some additional details worthy of note:

Ryan Guant showed up and onsighted the route up to the Pump Floyd anchor just a few minutes after the bolts were replaced. Nice send! True onsight since he hadn't even seen anyone climbing it.

The opportunity was well used and much education was garnered. We all learned a bit about anchor placement. A big thanks to Rudi for patiently belaying even though he's unable to climb because of injury. Another big thanks to Ben for his stoke to get out and give back in a positive way. Also, much thanks to John for both starting and finishing this project of restoring a high quality route.

The 304 SS Fixe hangers are compliments of the ASCA via John Knight. Fixe Triplex bolts compliments of John. The bolts cost $7.50/bolt, hangers are $3/hanger, plus shipping costs. Please donate to the ASCA. Those are arguably the best mechanical anchors around, made specifically for climbing, and are designed to be removable, so they are sustainable. Hopefully those same holes can be used again when the time comes to replace them again, which may not be required in my lifetime.

IMO the lower crux section feels about the same difficulty as 'Only Way To Fly.' The plan is to replace the remaining rusted bolts (bolts 5 and 6) since in addition to looking quite rusted, they are also probably mixed metals and undergoing accelerated rusting due to galvanic corrosion (the bolts look bad, probably carbon steel, with stainless hangers that look fine). I think I recall them looking like Rawl or Powers 5 piece anchors to me so it's possible we could use the same holes with a reasonable amount of effort in removal. After that, I'd like to replace the hardware that takes the original line over the roof. Still need to go out and make it look pretty since some of the old chopped bolt holes have not been patched and there are some chalk marks. Fun climb and I highly recommend it. Apr 4, 2015
John Knight
  5.11a PG13
John Knight  
  5.11a PG13
Video of Ben climbing the Free for All route. I think the lower section has various options based on whether you are left, right or straight on top of the bolt line.

youtu.be/z2zO3qVr7Cs Apr 3, 2015
John Knight
  5.11a PG13
John Knight  
  5.11a PG13
In March of 2015, a group of local climbers finally replaced the lower lead bolts for Free for All. We were able to locate all of the old bolts that were previously removed (with the intent of replacing them) a few years ago. Personal note - it was about the same time I had back surgery and I was unable to get assistance from "real climbers" to help put them back in.

In any case, with one exception, all the bolts were placed within a few inches of their original location. Now for the Exception - after much debate, we decided to remove one of the lower bolts (and not replace it). It was too close to another bolt (about 18") and really not necessary for safety. May have even created a "zip clip" potential! The lower crux section now "sports" 4 new Fixe Triplex bolts. These can hold at least one Mack Truck. At bolt 6, the route joins Pump Floyd from some slightly runout (5.10a/b) climbing. The upper portion seemed to require more focus and mental gymnastics than the lower "sporty" section. Unless you do the original route over the Motor Mouth overhang, you will only need 8 draws, instead of 10.

After several "pinkpoints" of the "new" route, everyone seemed to agree that it was a great lead and a nice addition to the "heady" lead routes on the right side of P-Wall.

Update - After reviewing Ryan Bello's info./notes and some old guidebooks, and seeing some recent pinkpoints, it appears that the lower section is somewhere around 5.11a/b and the roof is the crux at 5.11c (per Ryan Bello). Aaron F. and I will go replace those bolts and hopefully Aaron can send it and we can confirm the grade for the whole enchilada. Everyone I know just stops at the Pump Floyd chains and skips the 11c roof. If you know someone that can grade the roof, let me know and I will adjust the topo.

Happy Climbing! Mar 30, 2015
The beginning of the route was an old aid ladder that stopped at the top of the fist face. The route went unknown from there. I climbed it only using the pockets straight up. The route then goes right towards the roof. You go out over the roof(crux) and way up to the top of the wall/ anchors. It was all about the pockets and roof. Dec 1, 2013
Serial Crusher
A house
Serial Crusher   A house
Video or it didnt happen. : D Jul 20, 2012