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Routes in P-Wall

Back Surgery S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Streak S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dark Side of the Moon T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Direct Exposure T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dyno Dogs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energy Crisis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Epidural T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flinging Moss at the Molson Belay S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Free For All S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden Party S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hanging Teeth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Impacted Stool Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Indecent Exposure T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump For Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Just a Local Nobody T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knee Surgery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Leche S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leapin' Lizards T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Letterman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mickey's Carnal Desire S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oh My! T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Out of Hangers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
P-Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
P-Wall Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Poor Man's Cave (variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poor Man's P Crack T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pump Floyd T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route Canal T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Rusty's Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slime and Dine T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sofa King Great T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spring Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spring Route (Direct Variation) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze Job T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Bob Hutchinson and Tom Slater, 7-94 on lead on-sight.
Page Views: 164 total · 1/month
Shared By: Slater on Feb 13, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

From the oak tree, start up a face directly below the roof above. At 20' you will pass a bolt and then climb a flaring groove (possible pro). Above this climb past a very small pocket (nut pro) and then cam the roof/flake (double cam it if possible). Then friction up over the roof (steep) and clip. From here (crux), things are mentally easier. Continue up past 5 bolts (5 above roof) to new anchors (not set on FA) near huge flake/corner.

Protection

6 bolts plus gear: small nuts to large cams #3+4 Camalot.

Photos

Slater
 
Slater  
 
John Knight stated he replaced a 1/4" bolt on this route.
I did the FA of this route and we didn't place any 1/4" bolts on the FA in 1993, so I'm not sure what bolt he replaced, but it wasn't on Route Canal. Dec 20, 2008
Chris Bersbach
Arroyo Grande, CA
  5.10b R
Chris Bersbach   Arroyo Grande, CA
  5.10b R
I would be pretty skeptical of any gear in the shallow, flaring seam between the first bolt and the small pocket. I opted not to trust it and just ran it out, but definitely be aware that you'll either be trusting *very* suspect gear, or putting in a 30ish foot runout that would likely result in a long, rough slide to a grounder if you blew it. However, the moves through this section are no harder than 5.7, if that, so you've got that going for you.

The rest of the climb is very well equipped, and the crux move definitely isn't harder than 10b by Bishop Peak standards. Jun 20, 2013

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