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Routes in P-Wall

Back Surgery S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Streak S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dark Side of the Moon T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Direct Exposure T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dyno Dogs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energy Crisis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Epidural T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flinging Moss at the Molson Belay S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Free For All S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden Party S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hanging Teeth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Impacted Stool Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Indecent Exposure T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump For Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Knee Surgery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Leche S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leapin' Lizards T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Letterman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mickey's Carnal Desire S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oh My! T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Out of Hangers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
P-Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
P-Wall Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Poor Man's Cave (variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poor Man's P Crack T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pump Floyd T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route Canal T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Rusty's Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slime and Dine T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sofa King Great T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spring Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spring Route (Direct Variation) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze Job T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 785 total, 7/month
Shared By: John Knight on Nov 8, 2008
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route has a series of physical and mental cruxes. The first crux comes after clipping the 1st bolt. Head straight up or cruise a bit left for an easier time. Place one or two cams under the big block. Be sure to place long runners on them to reduce rope drag. Make a big step up and right as you mantel onto the block (2nd crux). Step up and place a red alien (or Tricam)in the lower solution pocket about waist high on your right. You might get a gold alien in the upper pocket. Without the alien, the route would probably get an R rating. Reach up high and search for big rails. Move up and clip the 2nd bolt. Make a step up and wander left across easier ground toward an old, rusted leeper hanger. Clip this with a loooong runner then move right out to the arete. Reach high and right to clip the final bolt and follow the arete to the single bolt anchor. Supplement this with a small cam (1/2" to 3/4") or sling the block. For an interesting variation, instead of clipping the final bolt on the arete, go straight up after clipping the rusty leeper. You can place pro beneath the detached flake.

After leading this climb, go climb Spring Route (5.8R) or Dark Side of Moon (5.8). Both Spring Route & Dark Side offer various top rope options.

Location

This route follows the arete on the detached pinnacle on the right side of P-Wall. Take the P-Wall trail to the base of P-Crack. Hang a right and cruise up to the pinnacle. As soon as you see the pinnacle, drop down to the right. You shouldn't have trouble finding the first bolt.

Protection

Mixture of bolts and cams. Four bolts (1 old leeper!) and 2 cam placements. You'll need a red alien or Tricam for the solution pocket. Bring long slings for the cams and old, rusted bolt. Single bolt anchor on top must be backed up with a small cam (1/2" to 3/4"). Rap rings are located on the back, up-hill side of the Pinnacle.

You can easily set this up as a top rope if you don't mind making a couple 5.5, unprotected moves up the back side of the pinnacle.

Photos

Floyd Hayes
  5.7 PG13
Floyd Hayes  
  5.7 PG13
Not very aesthetic, but adventurous with better quality climbing than I expected. Dec 24, 2011
FrankPS
Atascadero, CA
 
FrankPS   Atascadero, CA
 
Except for the last 20 feet or so, this is crumbly rock. Not very aesthetic. Sep 23, 2011
John Knight  
 
Bolts have been replaced on this route. For this route, bring a small (1/2" to 3/4") cam to set up the anchor. Nov 12, 2010
Floyd Hayes
  5.7 PG13
Floyd Hayes  
  5.7 PG13
Looking forward to a little adventure and unaware that the first bolt was missing, my partner and I were keenly disappointed to discover for ourselves that the bolt was missing. Not knowing whether the upper bolts were also chopped and not being in the mood to free solo, we packed up and left. We have a very low opinion of bolt choppers--to put it mildly. Jun 1, 2010
FrankPS
Atascadero, CA
 
FrankPS   Atascadero, CA
 
Looks like the first bolt is gone now! Don't know how it came out or was removed, but there is an obvious "patch" where the bolt was. It's not like there was a crack to protect next to the bolt. That bolt was on a blank face. More timid leaders, such as me, appreciate those bolts. I wish people would stop the chopping. Nov 19, 2009