Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 904 total · 7/month
Shared By: John Knight on Nov 8, 2008
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route has a series of physical and mental cruxes. The first crux comes after clipping the 1st bolt. Head straight up or cruise a bit left for an easier time. Place one or two cams under the big block. Be sure to place long runners on them to reduce rope drag. Make a big step up and right as you mantel onto the block (2nd crux). Step up and place a red alien (or Tricam)in the lower solution pocket about waist high on your right. You might get a gold alien in the upper pocket. Without the alien, the route would probably get an R rating. Reach up high and search for big rails. Move up and clip the 2nd bolt. Make a step up and wander left across easier ground toward an old, rusted leeper hanger. Clip this with a loooong runner then move right out to the arete. Reach high and right to clip the final bolt and follow the arete to the single bolt anchor. Supplement this with a small cam (1/2" to 3/4") or sling the block. For an interesting variation, instead of clipping the final bolt on the arete, go straight up after clipping the rusty leeper. You can place pro beneath the detached flake.

After leading this climb, go climb Spring Route (5.8R) or Dark Side of Moon (5.8). Both Spring Route & Dark Side offer various top rope options.

Location

This route follows the arete on the detached pinnacle on the right side of P-Wall. Take the P-Wall trail to the base of P-Crack. Hang a right and cruise up to the pinnacle. As soon as you see the pinnacle, drop down to the right. You shouldn't have trouble finding the first bolt.

Protection

Mixture of bolts and cams. Four bolts (1 old leeper!) and 2 cam placements. You'll need a red alien or Tricam for the solution pocket. Bring long slings for the cams and old, rusted bolt. Single bolt anchor on top must be backed up with a small cam (1/2" to 3/4"). Rap rings are located on the back, up-hill side of the Pinnacle.

You can easily set this up as a top rope if you don't mind making a couple 5.5, unprotected moves up the back side of the pinnacle.

Photos