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Routes in P-Wall

Back Surgery S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Streak S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dark Side of the Moon T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Direct Exposure T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dyno Dogs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energy Crisis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Epidural T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flinging Moss at the Molson Belay S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Free For All S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden Party S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hanging Teeth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Impacted Stool Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Indecent Exposure T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump For Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Knee Surgery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Leche S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leapin' Lizards T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Letterman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mickey's Carnal Desire S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oh My! T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Out of Hangers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
P-Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
P-Wall Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Poor Man's Cave (variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poor Man's P Crack T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pump Floyd T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route Canal T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Rusty's Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slime and Dine T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sofa King Great T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spring Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spring Route (Direct Variation) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze Job T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Tim Sorenson, Jeff Shrimpton 1981
Page Views: 1,383 total, 7/month
Shared By: Kristin McNamara on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This climb was originally on site "flashed" in 1981 by Tim Sorenson & Jeff Shrimpton. Bolts were placed on lead. The route was previously rated 5.10b(R) in the Tucker/Steele book. The Slater guide rates it at 5.10a(R). For the longest time, you had to bring your own hangers if you wanted to climb this route. As late as 1994, the Steele book was recommending that you bring hangers just in case! Don't worry, the hangers are all there today.

After dislodging a massive boulder and unleashing it onto the access trail below, my partner decided he would tackle this climb. After multiple falls off at the third bolt, it was sent and turned into a great climb. Better if you taunt, "I sure hope they went back and got the hangers they ran out of."

Protection

5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Photos

averhein
  5.10a PG13
averhein  
  5.10a PG13
Just onsighted this route and honestly think its one of the better climbs on bishop. Very fun and sustained climbing for 5 bolts. From what I saw the only really questionable rock was past the 5th bolt on easy ground. Oct 12, 2017
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
  5.10b PG13
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
  5.10b PG13
It could just be me but I was bleaying someone on this the other day and, whadda ya know, broke a hold. He whipped big! It was pretty wild. All was well in the end though. It happened towards the top on easier ground so, yeah, just be careful eh!

Don't hesitate to clip the bolts on the left face. That's what my partner fell onto and it helped him out for sure. Sling them though.

Still a worthy route Mar 21, 2013
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
  5.10b PG13
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
  5.10b PG13
Man, I've done this ting twice now (about a year apart) and both times I had a significant hold break on me. The second time it caused me to fall pretty good onto the first bolt (just after the crux) and into the slab below. I found the hold in the gully and it was definitely chalked up. It looks like a cool route from afar (nice sun/shade line), but I don't think it really feels that cool. And some bolts on the left face for another route kind of detract from it. The crux sequence is pretty cool though. Apr 18, 2012
Ryan Nevius
Estes Park, CO
  5.10- PG13
Ryan Nevius   Estes Park, CO
  5.10- PG13
Cimbed this line today. It doesn't look like it gets much traffic (which is unfortunate), as the lichen was pretty thick at parts. The route had great rests and the climbing was consistent. I'm surprised it's not more popular and cleaned up. It's definitely one of the best on the hill. Awesome exposure and movement on the arete. Feb 4, 2012
Tom Myers  
 
I do not believe this route deserves an R rating and may unnecessarily scare people from attempting the route. Bolts are where they need to be. The route is PG13 at most, a soft 10a, and a beautiful climb. May 20, 2008
Tom Myers  
 
When viewed from the base, especially the left side, this is an intimidating looking route. That is a reason it is one of the best Bishop's has to offer. There may be no where else in the area you can get a full pitch of arete climbing and the unique exposure it offers. Plus it is essentially lichen-free. All the way from bolt #1 to bolt #5 the route is quite sustained with no move being trivial, easing a bit at the end when fatigue is catching up. The only detraction at all is a loose section on the left side between bolt 2 and 3; one must tread lightly on the holds there. With a 50 meter rope you must terminate the route at the anchors above Stage Fright, so angle left after the last bolt. May 12, 2004