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Routes in P-Wall

Back Surgery S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Streak S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dark Side of the Moon T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Direct Exposure T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dyno Dogs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energy Crisis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Epidural T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flinging Moss at the Molson Belay S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Free For All S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden Party S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hanging Teeth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Impacted Stool Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Indecent Exposure T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump For Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Knee Surgery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Leche S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leapin' Lizards T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Letterman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mickey's Carnal Desire S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oh My! T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Out of Hangers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
P-Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
P-Wall Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Poor Man's Cave (variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poor Man's P Crack T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pump Floyd T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route Canal T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Rusty's Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slime and Dine T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sofa King Great T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spring Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spring Route (Direct Variation) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze Job T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Rusty Garing
Page Views: 1,110 total, 6/month
Shared By: Scott Bullock on Apr 2, 2003
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Rusty's Cave starts on the right side of the P-Wall near the detached buttress. The start is marked by a big pocket about 7 feet up. Climb the slab up to the diagonal crack and your first placement. Follow the uneven shallow crack for about 45 feet. Look for the first chance to traverse left(don't go to high). Clip the bolt and continue left for the small cave/ledge and the anchor.

Protection

Nuts and TCUs plus one bolt. Two bolt anchor with rap chains

Photos

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Sean P. Sullivan
Clovis, Ca
 
Sean P. Sullivan   Clovis, Ca
 
The large blocks just before the vertical section are incredibly loose and would certainly seriously injure if not kill your belayer if they came off. Do not place gear behind them, do not pull on them. Just a heads up. Nov 2, 2015
Did this route for first time today. Second pitch is awesome i thought easy,fun. not to dirty moves. those anchors at top are rusty though :0
Maybe traverse left at the top to the anchors more near the top of p crack? much nicer. Apr 17, 2013
FrankPS
Atascadero, CA
 
FrankPS   Atascadero, CA
 
This climb features about one or two moves of difficulty - getting up the crack before the traverse. The traverse is heady, but easy. A decent route. Feb 2, 2012
Led the second pitch of this a few weeks back (or Biemer's Trough as some call it.) It is surprising fun despite the sea of spongy lichen as key holds are clean-ish. It's not very run-out if you spend time with your gear placements. Jan 19, 2012
Floyd Hayes
  5.8 PG13
Floyd Hayes  
  5.8 PG13
Gnarly and unaesthetic. The first crack was fun but too short and too easy. The traverse was wild--and would be scary for a beginning leader or follower. The "cave" was disappointing--it was comfortable sitting on the ledge and belaying my partner but there wasn't enough space to comfortably accomodate two. We were planning on doing the second pitch but the lichen growth above the cave was thick and the logistics of switching positions with my partner were complicated, so I simply lowered her and then rappelled. Jun 1, 2010
vincent L.
Redwood City
vincent L.   Redwood City
There is a lot more moss/lichen/algae , what ever it is , on the second pitch. More than there was last year. It makes the route more fun. Jan 11, 2008
Nick Haupt
  5.8
Nick Haupt  
  5.8
This is an allright route. The best part is most definitely the belay position. there is another pitch to this that goes at 5.7 and follows a shallow seam you face climb around and place crappy wires in. bring your moss edging shoes for this pitch. Dec 28, 2004
Theron Moses
  5.8
Theron Moses  
  5.8
This is a great route! You can get a small cam into the back of the large hole at the bottom for a multi directional. The hand crack in the middle as awesome. It sucks up nuts or cams for bomber placements. The blocky terrain before the traverse takes gear well also. I placed a large nut and medium cam up a little high then down climbed a move and did the traverse. Don't go too high. The bolt is just around the corner as soon as you can go left. Go up and then left from the bolt. I ended up just above the chains and had to step down to them. The chains and bolts are not in great condition but John Knight has them on his list to replace. Use double slings on almost all the pieces because the route wanders so much. Sit in the cave and enjoy the view and the solitude before coming down. Mar 7, 2004