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Routes in P-Wall

Back Surgery S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Streak S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dark Side of the Moon T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Direct Exposure T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dyno Dogs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energy Crisis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Epidural T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flinging Moss at the Molson Belay S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Free For All S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden Party S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hanging Teeth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Impacted Stool Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Indecent Exposure T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump For Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Knee Surgery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Leche S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leapin' Lizards T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Letterman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mickey's Carnal Desire S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oh My! T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Out of Hangers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
P-Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
P-Wall Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Poor Man's Cave (variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poor Man's P Crack T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pump Floyd T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route Canal T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Rusty's Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slime and Dine T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sofa King Great T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spring Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spring Route (Direct Variation) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze Job T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: Ed Sampson, Mike Cirone, James Blench, 1979
Page Views: 1,236 total · 16/month
Shared By: Ryan Nevius on Feb 26, 2012
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Beautiful, exposed climb that runs dead center over the front of P-Wall. The crux occurs right in the middle of the route, right as the wall steepens. The last half of the route is on great textured rock on easier ground. Either do it straight up from the ground (200', tie in to each end of the rope), or break it into 2 pitches by climbing directly from the ground to the first set of anchors, or traversing over from the first belay of P-Crack.

Location

The direct start begins a few feet off the main approach trail and the very base of P-Wall. If you run into the start of P-Crack, you've gone too far up hill.

Protection

7 bolts. Some people may like a couple of small pieces to supplement. Comfortable .10a leaders should be fine without. The crux is well protected.

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Frodeman  
 
Did this last year sometime, and had trouble finding bolts. The J. Knight guide shows 2 below the first anchor, where we could only find 1. Additionally, after the .10a part, where a hold broke, we only found a single bolt, whereas mountain project says there will be 2. The J. Knight guide only shows 1, but we were happy enough with a cam (C4 0.5) over on the side of the hanging tooth. (A little off route but searched for the bolt until it was pretty much hopeless, then traversed)

Cool because of the length, and protected where it needs to be, but run out all the same. Aug 10, 2016

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