Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Knight, Theron Moses
Page Views: 1,257 total · 10/month
Shared By: John Knight on Nov 11, 2008
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Start at the large chockstone in the gulley. Before stepping up to the ledge above the chockstone, place a 1" (+/-) cam in the big hole off to your right. Once you step up to the ledge and under the roof you can place a small nut or cam above your head so you can step up and clip the bolt above the overhang. Make the bolt protected mantle move and work your way up past 1 more bolt on your way to the anchors. The runout to the anchors is 5.6. Once you reach the top rap off or TR Dark Side (5.10) or Jeff's Crack (5.9). Both are left of Dark Side. The upper pitch has nothing harder than 5.6 but provides a nice way to get to the top of P-Wall. After you make the top of P-Wall, work your way up to Sunnyside (5.9) and cruise to the summit.


Starts on top of the very large chockstone lodged in the gulley. Go up over the roof. Yes, it's only 5.8!


Two (2) bolts, plus small to medium cams for the lower pitch. The upper pitch can be protected w/one bolt and cams.


Jon Hanlon   SLO
Is this a new line, or is it Motor Mouth with a new name? Dec 1, 2008
After discovering for ourselves that the first bolt on Oh My! was missing, my partner and I next checked out this climb. Again we were keenly disappointed to see that the first bolt had been chopped. We could see the second bolt, but not knowing whether any of the upper bolts were also chopped, we packed up and left. We were in a sour mood about not being able to climb two of our planned routes for the day, so we have a very, very low opinion of bolt choppers--to put it mildly. Jun 1, 2010
John Knight
John Knight   Sedona
There were 4 bolts on this climb. I recently replaced 2 of them. This changes the safety rating from a "G" to a "PG/R" rating. With a bit of gear this is still a great cilmb. I will post an updated topo soon. Go back and give it a try sometime. Jun 11, 2010
Bryan Carroll
Los Osos, CA
Bryan Carroll   Los Osos, CA
My partner Steve lead this yesterday and I followed, despite there only being two bolts for the leader, it was one of my favorite climbs. You can fit a small cam under the opening roof, or you can reach up and clip the first bolt. However, the roof is realativly easy due to the nature of the large holds. Great climb, and you can lead this to get to the 'pump floyd' anchors, another one of the most fun climbs on "the dark side" of P-wall. Jun 11, 2010
Atascadero, CA
  5.7 PG13
FrankPS   Atascadero, CA
  5.7 PG13
The second pitch is dirty and runout. Take some nuts to augment the one bolt on the second pitch. There are rap rings on the second pitch anchor. I would only do this second pitch again as a way to get to the top of P-Wall to access other climbs. Jan 10, 2012
John Knight
John Knight   Sedona
Each pitch is about 75' for a total of about 150'. Sometimes I climb Doggie Style to Garden Party then rap down from the Dark Side anchor to Top Rope Pump Floyd (Pump Floyd shares the Dark Side anchor).

Second pitch recommended only as a way to get to the top of P-Wall. It is dirty and slightly runout but you can find several cam and nut placements if you're creative. It used to have more bolts on it and was just dirty and not runout. But alas, now it's BOTH dirty and runout.

Good training for those interested in moving on to more adventurous climbs. If Dark Side's 2nd pitch isn't dirty and runout enough for you, go over and try The Grotto. Now THAT is dirty and runout (but only 5.6). Jan 10, 2012