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Routes in P-Wall

Back Surgery S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Streak S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dark Side of the Moon T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Direct Exposure T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dyno Dogs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energy Crisis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Epidural T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flinging Moss at the Molson Belay S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Free For All S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden Party S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hanging Teeth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Impacted Stool Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Indecent Exposure T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump For Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Knee Surgery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Leche S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leapin' Lizards T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Letterman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mickey's Carnal Desire S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oh My! T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Out of Hangers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
P-Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
P-Wall Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Poor Man's Cave (variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poor Man's P Crack T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pump Floyd T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route Canal T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Rusty's Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slime and Dine T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sofa King Great T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spring Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spring Route (Direct Variation) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze Job T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Colin Berry & friend, 1982
Page Views: 1,082 total, 7/month
Shared By: Scott Bullock on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Letterman is the 3rd pitch of P- Crack. From the 2nd belay lead up through a left facing corner. As the corner ends traverse right to the anchors.

Protection

Pro .5 - 2.5 Bolted belays

Photos

Ryan Nevius
Estes Park, CO
  5.6
Ryan Nevius   Estes Park, CO
  5.6
I thought the right option was a great finish to P-Crack. It's a nice 5.6 roof on extremely grippy rock and follows a nice angling crack. Way better than the left option. Dec 3, 2011
John Knight
  5.6 PG13
John Knight  
  5.6 PG13
Carrot Top? I like it! I will have to change the name in the next e-Guide update. The true Letterman variation definitely goes left. It climbs through the spilled paint of the "P" on "P-Wall". The other variation (aka Carrot Top) is definitely better with the exception of the bat guano. Maybe it's not as bad as it used to be. It's been awhile since I was on it. I like the mini-mantle move above the bolt and the greater exposure of this variation/climb. Oct 15, 2011
Floyd Hayes
  5.6 PG13
Floyd Hayes  
  5.6 PG13
But why are the two called variations when they share only a few holds at most? The two are essentially independent lines. Maybe they should be called Letterman and Carrot Top? Now that I've climbed both I like the right option much more. Oct 13, 2011
John Knight
  5.6 PG13
John Knight  
  5.6 PG13
Although you don't get any pro for 15' or 20' off the anchor, it's not that hard (maybe 5.3?). You'd have to pass out to fall. The crux for the left variation, in my opinion, is getting through the slick paint they spilled when they tried to mask over the "P". It's especially tricky when it's foggy! The right "Carrot Top Variation" has one interesting move over a small roof then the fun is sort of over as you work your way up and left through hundreds of years of bat guano.

There's now an interesting harder variation (5.8?) that starts on the "Carrot Top Variation", then continues up and right after clipping a bolt. This variation heads over to the "Jump for Joy" anchors.

All variations have great exposure and get you up to the top of P-Wall for a fun adventure. Sep 8, 2011
FrankPS
Atascadero, CA
  5.6 PG13
FrankPS   Atascadero, CA
  5.6 PG13
When doing the left variation, there is no pro for the first 15-20 feet off the P-Crack anchor, til you get in the corner. OK route, the paint and lichen result in some slick spots. Sep 6, 2011
Floyd Hayes
  5.6 PG13
Floyd Hayes  
  5.6 PG13
I led the left option, which was sparsely protected and had a few slick spots, but was relatively easy. While rappelling afterward, the right option looked much more fun and better protected--I'll do it the next time. It seems odd that the two options have the same name because they don't share any holds. Mar 22, 2010
John Knight
  5.6 PG13
John Knight  
  5.6 PG13
The Letterman bolt was added by "Carrot Top". Sorry I can't remember his real name. I think his first name might have been Ian? Kristin Mc. might know who I'm talking about. He was the same guy that got himself stuck in San Luis Creek Downtown during a flood (he was kayaking w/a buddy). Re: the bolt - he said he thought he was putting up a new variation so he added the bolt. Said he bolted it by hand on lead. Obviously, the variation existed many years before the bolt was added. I think it might have arrived sometime around 2003 or 2004. Aug 6, 2009
Does anyone know who added the bolt to Letterman? This section was bolt-free for many years. May 24, 2005
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
An okay finish to P-Crack. As the photo indicates, two distinct options exist: from the bolted anchor atop P-Crack, either (a) head up and right, passing a single bolt at a small roof and continue up crack to a 2 bolt rap anchor (painted brown), or (b) head up and left off the P-Crack anchor, following left-trending ramp and eventually trending back to the right to the aforementioned anchor.

The paint residue has left the rock slick. Jan 23, 2005