Mountain Project Logo

Routes in P-Wall

Back Surgery S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Streak S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dark Side of the Moon T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Direct Exposure T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dyno Dogs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energy Crisis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Epidural T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flinging Moss at the Molson Belay S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Free For All S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden Party S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hanging Teeth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Impacted Stool Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Indecent Exposure T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump For Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Knee Surgery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Leche S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leapin' Lizards T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Letterman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mickey's Carnal Desire S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oh My! T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Out of Hangers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
P-Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
P-Wall Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Poor Man's Cave (variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poor Man's P Crack T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pump Floyd T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route Canal T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Rusty's Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slime and Dine T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sofa King Great T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spring Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spring Route (Direct Variation) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze Job T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: Josh Moore, Ken Klis, Aaron Stireman
Page Views: 1,078 total, 18/month
Shared By: j moore on Feb 11, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Crux is getting over the "tooth" like feature, well protected move. A second pitch to rusty's cave last pIece is a shallow red camalot.
A 60 meter rope will get you all the way to the round with one rap.
Good route high up on the p wall with a cool view of downtown and the hikers trail. Top of pitch is a little slick and full of lichen (what isn't) but relatively easy.

Location

p wall, take rusty's to the cave then continue up and slightly right. this is a continuation of rustys cave and can all be done in one pitch with a long rap.

Protection

quick draws and a red camalot or equivalent.

Photos

(Another) fun variation: Start on first few moves of Spring Route, clip bolt #2 of Epidural, head over to Rusty's Cave route, and before clipping chains on Rusty's, head up Poor Man's P Crack. Yields a nice long "mixed" trad and sport pitch. A few cams to 1" and a #3.5 camalot will get you up to the PMPC bolts. Several slings. 70m rope gets you down. Sep 18, 2016
Sean P. Sullivan
Clovis, Ca
 
Sean P. Sullivan   Clovis, Ca
 
Fantastic Route. Super easy to find once at Rusty's anchors. Consider connecting Rusty's to this by either using a double sling on the anchors of rusty's and slings on just about everything else, or go straight up from the bolt on the poor mans cave variation-also using slings on everything. Nov 2, 2015
Can someone draw a topo for this route and the variation? I'm a bit confused as to where it goes. I would like to add it to the e-Guide. Check out the photos I posted and let me know if it looks right. Thanks, John May 17, 2013
Fun route, beautiful setting. Apr 29, 2013
j moore
Santa Maria
 
j moore   Santa Maria
 
John, definitely not energy crisis or biemers...climb it and check it out for yourself, it goes out and right out of the cave and the routes you are suggesting look like they go out and slightly left. in between energy crisis and biemers trough on the topo you provided via pete gulyash's guide. Feb 25, 2013
This "new route" sounds like it might be Biemer's Trough or Energy Crisis. Download the old Gulyash Guide here - 1986 Pete Gulyash Guide - Off the Wall

I may be wrong. Feb 23, 2013