Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: Josh Moore, Ken Klis, Aaron Stireman
Page Views: 1,208 total · 17/month
Shared By: j moore on Feb 11, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Crux is getting over the "tooth" like feature, well protected move. A second pitch to rusty's cave last pIece is a shallow red camalot.
A 60 meter rope will get you all the way to the round with one rap.
Good route high up on the p wall with a cool view of downtown and the hikers trail. Top of pitch is a little slick and full of lichen (what isn't) but relatively easy.

Location

p wall, take rusty's to the cave then continue up and slightly right. this is a continuation of rustys cave and can all be done in one pitch with a long rap.

Protection

quick draws and a red camalot or equivalent.

Photos

John Knight
Sedona
John Knight   Sedona
This "new route" sounds like it might be Biemer's Trough or Energy Crisis. Download the old Gulyash Guide here - 1986 Pete Gulyash Guide - Off the Wall

I may be wrong. Feb 23, 2013
j moore
Santa Maria
  5.10a
j moore   Santa Maria
  5.10a
John, definitely not energy crisis or biemers...climb it and check it out for yourself, it goes out and right out of the cave and the routes you are suggesting look like they go out and slightly left. in between energy crisis and biemers trough on the topo you provided via pete gulyash's guide. Feb 25, 2013
Fun route, beautiful setting. Apr 29, 2013
John Knight
Sedona
John Knight   Sedona
Can someone draw a topo for this route and the variation? I'm a bit confused as to where it goes. I would like to add it to the e-Guide. Check out the photos I posted and let me know if it looks right. Thanks, John May 17, 2013
Sean P. Sullivan
Clovis, Ca
 
Sean P. Sullivan   Clovis, Ca
 
Fantastic Route. Super easy to find once at Rusty's anchors. Consider connecting Rusty's to this by either using a double sling on the anchors of rusty's and slings on just about everything else, or go straight up from the bolt on the poor mans cave variation-also using slings on everything. Nov 2, 2015
(Another) fun variation: Start on first few moves of Spring Route, clip bolt #2 of Epidural, head over to Rusty's Cave route, and before clipping chains on Rusty's, head up Poor Man's P Crack. Yields a nice long "mixed" trad and sport pitch. A few cams to 1" and a #3.5 camalot will get you up to the PMPC bolts. Several slings. 70m rope gets you down. Sep 18, 2016