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Routes in P-Wall

Back Surgery S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Streak S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dark Side of the Moon T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Direct Exposure T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dyno Dogs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energy Crisis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Epidural T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flinging Moss at the Molson Belay S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Free For All S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden Party S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hanging Teeth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Impacted Stool Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Indecent Exposure T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump For Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Just a Local Nobody T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knee Surgery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Leche S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leapin' Lizards T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Letterman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mickey's Carnal Desire S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oh My! T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Out of Hangers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
P-Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
P-Wall Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Poor Man's Cave (variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poor Man's P Crack T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pump Floyd T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route Canal T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Rusty's Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slime and Dine T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sofa King Great T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spring Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spring Route (Direct Variation) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze Job T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 579 total · 9/month
Shared By: David Delkeskamp on May 12, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb the route Rusty's Cave but at the last bolt go straight up rather than traversing left to the anchor. A 3.5 camalot (or equivalent) can be placed here and leads you to the first bolt of Poor Mans P Crack and the rest of this (variation) route. Slings on most if not all pieces, including a few double slings, straighten out the line and reduce the drag. Lower off with a 70m; with a 60m you will most likely have to rap to the Rusty's Cave anchor. The charm of this climb is it's length and it's mix of trad and sport.

Protection

Trad pro on rusty's and draws on PMPC. Extend everything with slings.

Photos

j moore
Santa Maria
j moore   Santa Maria
this 'variation' was led by me days after i did the FA on Poor Mans P Crack. i didnt feel it was a different route because there is only one move different, where you go up instead of the cave anchors. Jun 1, 2013
Hey j moore, good on you. Connecting Rusy's to poor mans p and bypassing the poor mans p anchors makes for a great pitch. Trad, sport, relatively long, great position, and you can lower off with a single 70m rope. I hope people find out about this line and climb it. Sep 1, 2013
Maxwell Kincaid
Sedona, Arizona
Maxwell Kincaid   Sedona, Arizona
i wouldn't go so far as to say anyone in particular has claim to this FA. I know for certain many other climbers besides myself who have consequently climbed it to go directly for the peak in past years. Aug 20, 2015

More About Poor Man's Cave (variation)

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