Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 604 total · 9/month
Shared By: David Delkeskamp on May 12, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Climb the route Rusty's Cave but at the last bolt go straight up rather than traversing left to the anchor. A 3.5 camalot (or equivalent) can be placed here and leads you to the first bolt of Poor Mans P Crack and the rest of this (variation) route. Slings on most if not all pieces, including a few double slings, straighten out the line and reduce the drag. Lower off with a 70m; with a 60m you will most likely have to rap to the Rusty's Cave anchor. The charm of this climb is it's length and it's mix of trad and sport.

Protection

Trad pro on rusty's and draws on PMPC. Extend everything with slings.

Photos

j moore
Santa Maria
j moore   Santa Maria
this 'variation' was led by me days after we did the FA on Poor Mans P Crack. There is only one move different, where you go up instead of the cave anchors. Jun 1, 2013
David Delkeskamp  
  5.9
Hey j moore, good on you. Connecting Rusy's to poor mans p and bypassing the poor mans p anchors makes for a great pitch. Trad, sport, relatively long, great position, and you can lower off with a single 70m rope. I hope people find out about this line and climb it. Sep 1, 2013
Maxwell Kincaid
Sedona, Arizona
Maxwell Kincaid   Sedona, Arizona
i wouldn't go so far as to say anyone in particular has claim to this FA. I know for certain many other climbers besides myself who have consequently climbed it to go directly for the peak in past years. Aug 20, 2015