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Routes in P-Wall

Back Surgery S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Streak S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dark Side of the Moon T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Direct Exposure T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dyno Dogs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energy Crisis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Epidural T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flinging Moss at the Molson Belay S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Free For All S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden Party S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hanging Teeth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Impacted Stool Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Indecent Exposure T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump For Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Knee Surgery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Leche S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leapin' Lizards T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Letterman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mickey's Carnal Desire S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oh My! T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Out of Hangers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
P-Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
P-Wall Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Poor Man's Cave (variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poor Man's P Crack T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pump Floyd T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route Canal T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Rusty's Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slime and Dine T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sofa King Great T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spring Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spring Route (Direct Variation) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze Job T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: Ed Keefe and Ryan Bello, 1990
Page Views: 904 total, 5/month
Shared By: John Knight on Mar 31, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Leapin' Lizards is either a start variation to Spring Route or a separate route. Option #1 - Clip the lower bolts, then head left onto Spring Route to clip the stray, off route bolt way to the left (use a looong sling) then go either straight up (bold!) or work your way right of the arete to the anchors under the roof. Option #2 - Go up the thin seam (use a small wired), clip the lower Lizard bolts, then go straight up to the new finish right of Spring. Use small gear & more draws to head up over the roof to the right. Once over the roof, work your way right to the anchors 25' above on the right. There are several good climbs that can be top roped from these upper anchors.

Grade Comments: The book gives Leapin' Lizards (Option #1) a 5.8 rating. I disagree. I think it's pretty solid 5.9. Maybe if you wire the moves, it eventually feels 5.8, but I doubt it. Please climb it and confirm for me! Option #2 is 5.9 or possibly 5.10a. The roof move feels hard, but is well protected.

To find the climb, ascend the fourth class notch to Spring Route (small amount of water dripping out of crack in the rock), then look for the bolts just right of the spring. The first set of bolts is Dyno Dogs (5.10a) and the 2nd is Lizards. A couple other climbs in the 5.10 to 5.11 range can be found uphill and to the right that are worth checking out.

Protection

Bring draws, small gear, and slings for the anchor chains.

[ed. note: 4/04 - two ¼” buttonhead bolts replaced in same holes w/12mm SS Fixe ASCA bolts.

Photos

Eric "Pig" Varley
Nipomo, CA
 
Eric "Pig" Varley   Nipomo, CA
 
I led this route yesterday. I'm not sure if I missed something, or if it is actually supposed to be super run out (ground fall potential). The plus side is that it's super easy through the run out section. Anyone have any beta on additional protection between bolts 2 and 3? Sep 3, 2015
Jordan Collins
South Lake Tahoe
Jordan Collins   South Lake Tahoe
I dont really now what I did today but I started on leapin lizards placed like a #3 stopper in the thin crack clipped 2 bolts. moved up and over the bulge to the right. kept moving right and clipped about 4 more bolts on a pretty dirty but fun sidepull layback section. Whats up is this a route. or am i just a confused bystander. the last 4 bolts were killer climbing. Jun 6, 2014