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Routes in P-Wall

Back Surgery S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Streak S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Dark Side of the Moon T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Direct Exposure T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Dyno Dogs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Energy Crisis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Epidural T,S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flinging Moss at the Molson Belay S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Free For All S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garden Party S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hanging Teeth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Impacted Stool Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Indecent Exposure T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jump For Joy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Knee Surgery S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
La Leche S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leapin' Lizards T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Letterman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mickey's Carnal Desire S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oh My! T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Out of Hangers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
P-Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
P-Wall Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Poor Man's Cave (variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poor Man's P Crack T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pump Floyd T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route Canal T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Rusty's Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slime and Dine T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Sofa King Great T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spring Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spring Route (Direct Variation) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeeze Job T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stage Fright T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 967 total, 6/month
Shared By: John Knight on Mar 5, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Scramble up the loose access trail to the base of P-Wall. When you are looking straight at the rock, take a right toward the right side of P-Wall. Once you scramble up a short (10') 4th class section, stop and you'll find yourself at the base of the Spring Route. It's name comes from the small spring dribbling out of the rock at the start of the climb. Work your way up a crack to the right and wander around to a bolt just left of the anchor chains. To experience the 5.8 crux, climb straight up after the bolt (hard to protect) or work your way right on easier ground (5.7), then straight up to the anchor. Once at the anchor, you can lower off, continue up to a new set of anchors about 20' above (good top rope location), or continue up to the top of P-Wall. The original line continued all the way to the top (quite mungy). Once you set up the Spring Route anchors, top rope the two starting variations, Dyno Dogs (5.10a) and Leaping Lizards (5.9+). Climbers in this area are guanteed to have good views and (usually) solitude.

Protection

You'll need a variety of small nuts and cams up to about 2". Bring a couple slings for the chain anchors on top.

Photos

FrankPS
Atascadero, CA
  5.9- R
FrankPS   Atascadero, CA
  5.9- R
The description of this climb is not correct; the topo map is. After the bolt, go right around the arete, up past two more bolts, then to the anchor. The crux is getting over the small roof between the second and third bolts. Mar 7, 2016
John Knight  
 
I added a bit better beta photo that might help sort out the routes in and near Spring Route. Hope this helps you or the next crew out there.

jk Feb 25, 2011
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
  5.8
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
  5.8
I'm not exactly sure what I climbed... it was an exercise in route finding for me. The photo with the red line drawn for the route was definitely helpful in finding the route though.

I didn't think the protection was that great (except for the bomber 1-2" crack/pocket about 25 ft up on the left lower portion of the route); the bolts were welcome. Feb 25, 2011