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The Evictor 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dale Goddard
Fixed Hardware: 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 8,991
Submitted By: Steve Levin on Jan 8, 2001
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Rob Linnenberger using some wicked body English to...
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Evictor offers one of the best difficult all-gear leads in the area. Many people jump on it on toprope from the Center Route anchors (please toprope through QDs and not directly off the anchor). It was originally led with the gear in place, but it has seen many ascents with all gear placed on the lead burn, usually after toprope prep. Watch Cameron Tague go ground up and take repeated whippers off it in the Scary Faces video- you will see absolutely no fear in his eyes.

Begin at the Center Route, but head left at an obvious downward-pointed flake. Now climb unprotected rock to the overlap, place gear and rest (last OK stance). Now pull on fingertip jams, and barge into the sustained climbing above. The crux is protected, if you can hang around to place the gear, but there is a bit of excitement both below and after the hardest moves.


Protection 

Aliens to #2 Friend, several wire stoppers.



Photos of The Evictor Slideshow Add Photo
Rob Linnenberger cruxes on his very stylish send of The Evictor.
Rob Linnenberger cruxes on his very stylish send o...
Ben walking through the crux moves and so close to the send...
Ben walking through the crux moves and so close to...
Josh going BIG.
Josh going BIG.
Taking the whip on Evictor!
Taking the whip on Evictor!
Chris Tirrell.
Chris Tirrell.
Scott Bennett powering through The Evictor.  <a href='http://www.ryandaythompson.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.ryandaythompson.com</a> | <a href='http://www.ryandaylandscapes.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.ryandaylandscapes.com</a>
Scott Bennett powering through The Evictor. www.r...
Chip Chace attempting Evictor on TR.
Chip Chace attempting Evictor on TR.
The most spectacular position on this climb? George and his partner Chris both led Evictor that day.
The most spectacular position on this climb? Georg...
Lynn below the "power moves" to the anchor, one very hot day.
Lynn below the "power moves" to the anchor, one ve...
Cruxville.
Cruxville.
Ronnie Approaches the crux of Evictor hoping not to take a wipper worthy of being in the Scary Faces video.
Ronnie Approaches the crux of Evictor hoping not t...
Chris Tirrell.
Chris Tirrell.
Cruxville.
Cruxville.
Comments on The Evictor Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 29, 2013
By Willie Mein
Jul 22, 2003

I believe that Jim Surette did it way back, without all the hype.

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 28, 2003
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b

It that the same Jimmy Surette who did a bunch of hard and scary first ascents in New Hampshire in the '70s?

By Willie Mein
Sep 29, 2003

Adam. Yes, that's the guy. Not many people know of his ascent because he didn't make a big deal of it.

By ac
Jun 9, 2005

As I lack the guts to uprate a route under my real name, I'm posting under the honorable title of AC. I have to call sandbagging for who ever said this is 12c on lead, placing gear. Maybe 12c on toprope. This thing is 12d placing gear and hard at the grade. If you have led it in good style, please feel free to correct me.

And now for the sameless spraying for my buddy Ted Lanzano (as he won't do it himself). He crushed this on lead yesterday. The last stopper he was too pumped to place properly so he just clipped it and sprinted for the top. Getting wobbley at the top and looking at a 30+ foot whipper, he sucked it up and snagged the finishing jug. Absolutely inspiring performance. You Lanzano boys are the shit!

By ac
Jun 14, 2005

FWIW, this route has seen at least a dozen redpoints over the past year or two, many by non-5.13 climbers. Not sure if that adds anything to the grade debate or not, but it does update some of the information in the description

By Kristo torgersen
Mar 5, 2007
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX E6 6b PG13

All trad pro, continuously sustained climbing, solid 5.12+. This route has deservedly become an Eldo benchmark over the years and opened the door for many climbers to the more difficult 5.13 lines to its left (Freeline, Frayed line, Surfs Up). I'd call it a new classic and the best 5.12 trad pitch in the state; would anyone nominate a better one?

By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Mar 5, 2007

Evictor is a great one, no doubt. As far as the best, 5.12, 1 pitch, crack climb in the State goes, it's "Transgression 12b" in the Flatirons. Just do 85% of "Death and Transfiguration" and keep cranking it out to the right, very obvious and pumpy. Transgression is better than the Evictor. IMNSHO........

edit for spelling

By superjosh
Feb 8, 2008

Anyone know if the Evictor has ever been onsighted/flashed? A true onsight would be really impressive.

By Cassidy Hill
Apr 2, 2008
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b R

12d placing gear, especially if your fingers don't fit in the finger-locks at the crux.

By reboot
From: Westminster, CO
Apr 13, 2008

The crux for me is before the finger/tip jams. The rests on this route are decent enough that I'd call this 5.12 leading in project style (i.e. with all the move/gear beta). Onsight/flash would be much more difficult.

Not sure where the R rating comes from (pre cam days?) The route accepts mix of good active and passive gear.

By Dusty
From: Fort Collins
Jan 19, 2009
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b R

I believe Alex Honnold got the first true onsight of this route last weekend. Same goes for the three routes to the left.

Edit: I think this route gets the R rating for the 5.10 run-out at the bottom. If you have the energy to stop and place, the rest of the climb can be sewn up.

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jan 20, 2009

Alex did indeed onsight this climb last Friday. Pretty inspiring to see....

By Ben Walburn
Mar 20, 2011
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b PG13

I agree with the 12+ rating. The gear is certainly no more than PG. It's a little run out on the lower section but you won't deck, and the climbing is easy.

By PatrickV
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Jan 12, 2013

Video by my friend Bill Karam from a few years ago.

Evictor

.

By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Apr 1, 2013

Hey, Adam, just for reference, I lived in North Conway in '86, and knew Jimmy then. He was actually in high school at the time, so the '70s timeline is inaccurate. As for his low-key approach, that is true. He was always pretty humble about his accomplishments, yet super driven.

By Casey McTaggart
From: boulder, co
Apr 26, 2013

Hey-

I was at the Evictor on Sunday, and I discovered that I'm missing 3 cams: an orange Metolius, a 0.3 C4 and a 0.4 C4. They're all pretty worked and either have Wild Country Xenon biners or new Camp biners on them (guessing the orange has a WC biner and the BD cams have the Camp biners, but I'm not 100%).

There were two other guys up there at the base with us (I think one is named Aaron?), their stuff was spread out on the rock, I'm sure my cams just got mixed up in the pile, and my bad for not checking.
So if one of you reads this and is one of the guys that was up there, or if someone knows them, would you mind sending me a message or calling?

Thanks!!
casey 415-846-1439

By Gaylord.Primrose
From: boulder, CO
Jul 29, 2013

I did this route 2nd go, very thin technical crux for me!