The Evictor 

I believe that Jim Surrette did it way back, without all the hype.

It that the same Jimmy Surrette who did a bunch of hard and scary first ascents in New Hampshire in the '70s?

Adam. Yes, that's the guy. Not many people know of his ascent because he didn't make a big deal of it.

As I lack the guts to uprate a route under my real name, I'm posting under the honorable title of AC. I have to call sandbagging for who ever said this is 12c on lead, placing gear. Maybe 12c on toprope. This thing is 12d placing gear and hard at the grade. If you have led it in good style, please feel free to correct me.

And now for the sameless spraying for my buddy Ted Lanzano (as he won't do it himself). He crushed this on lead yesterday. The last stopper he was too pumped to place properly so he just clipped it and sprinted for the top. Getting wobbley at the top and looking at a 30+ foot whipper, he sucked it up and snagged the finishing jug. Absolutely inspiring performance. You Lanzano boys are the shit!

FWIW, this route has seen at least a dozen redpoints over the past year or two, many by non-5.13 climbers. Not sure if that adds anything to the grade debate or not, but it does update some of the information in the description

All trad pro, continuously sustained climbing, solid 5.12+. This route has deservedly become an Eldo benchmark over the years and opened the door for many climbers to the more difficult 5.13 lines to its left (Freeline, Frayed line, Surfs Up). I'd call it a new classic and the best 5.12 trad pitch in the state; would anyone nominate a better one?

Evictor is a great one, no doubt. As far as the best, 5.12, 1 pitch, crack climb in the State goes, it's "Transgression 12b" in the Flatirons. Just do 85% of "Death and Transfiguration" and keep cranking it out to the right, very obvious and pumpy. Transgression is better than the Evictor. IMNSHO........

edit for spelling

Anyone know if the Evictor has ever been onsighted/flashed? A true onsight would be really impressive.

12d placing gear, especially if your fingers don't fit in the finger-locks at the crux.

The crux for me is before the finger/tip jams. The rests on this route are decent enough that I'd call this 5.12 leading in project style (i.e. with all the move/gear beta). Onsight/flash would be much more difficult.

Not sure where the R rating comes from (pre cam days?) The route accepts mix of good active and passive gear.

I believe Alex Honnold got the first true onsight of this route last weekend. Same goes for the three routes to the left.

Edit: I think this route gets the R rating for the 5.10 run-out at the bottom. If you have the energy to stop and place, the rest of the climb can be sewn up.

Alex did indeed onsight this climb last Friday. Pretty inspiring to see....

I agree with the 12+ rating. The gear is certainly no more than PG. It's a little run out on the lower section but you won't deck, and the climbing is easy.

Video by my friend Bill Karam from a few years ago.

Evictor

Hey, Adam, just for reference, I lived in North Conway in '86, and knew Jimmy then. He was actually in high school at the time, so the '70s timeline is inaccurate. As for his low-key approach, that is true. He was always pretty humble about his accomplishments, yet super driven.

Hey-

I was at the Evictor on Sunday, and I discovered that I'm missing 3 cams: an orange Metolius, a 0.3 C4 and a 0.4 C4. They're all pretty worked and either have Wild Country Xenon biners or new Camp biners on them (guessing the orange has a WC biner and the BD cams have the Camp biners, but I'm not 100%).

There were two other guys up there at the base with us (I think one is named Aaron?), their stuff was spread out on the rock, I'm sure my cams just got mixed up in the pile, and my bad for not checking.
So if one of you reads this and is one of the guys that was up there, or if someone knows them, would you mind sending me a message or calling?

Thanks!!
casey 415-846-1439