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Brass Wall
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Spectrum 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jay Smith, Randal Grandstaff
Page Views: 2,134
Submitted By: Craig Clarence on Nov 13, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Topo by Craig Clarence, November 2004.

Description 

This is a very good route, with a short bouldery crux and plenty of runout on moderate terrain. To get to the start of the route, walk left along the base of the Brass Wall until the good climber's track run out, then thrash down into a small gully. You are now near the start of the route, which begins by climbing a chimney in a very prominent right-facing corner system that arches to the right. Despite the wide-looking cracks, we found that we didn't use much big gear - 1 #4 Camalot was sufficient. The traverse on the second pitch is the psychological crux, but it can be protected adequately with small cams and brass nuts. The technical crux on pitch 6 takes bomber small TCUs.

Protection 

Small to medium nuts, double cams #.5 - #3 Camalot, single cams #00 TCU up to finger size, 1 #4 Camalot. Mostly trad anchors.


Photos of Spectrum Slideshow Add Photo
Xavier Wasiak and Bob Conz approach the crux on Sp...
Xavier Wasiak and Bob Conz approach the crux on Sp...
About to launch into the traversing second pitch.....
About to launch into the traversing second pitch.....
Susan Wolfe leading the spectacular third (or 4th)...
Susan Wolfe leading the spectacular third (or 4th)...

Comments on Spectrum Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 20, 2013
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Mar 20, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

Very good adventure route. P1 is burly. P2 is spooky looking, but it has more gear than you think/fear. The P3 dihedral is runout at the top, but has easy moves on solid rock. P4 has more good hand crack and is well protected. The fixed anchors run out here. P5 has lots of lousy gear on crunchy, easy rock. P6, the crux, is just a few moves long and can be easily aided. Watch the loose rock sitting in the crack above the horn, you don't want to undo all your progress just as things start to ease up!

P7 can be taken sharply left and connected to the penultimate anchors on Birdland at 5.7 PG/R, which makes for an easy descent.

Does anyone know what the anchors to the right of P3 belong to?
By rockratrei
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 22, 2006

The anchors right of P3 on the face? not sure
To the right in the chasm is Brassballs (5.10), in Swains second guidebook.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 15, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

Really good line- the loose rock kept things interesting for the entire route. Bolts on the 2nd and 3rd pitch are in excellent shape.

Another option for gaining Birdland is to topout on Spectrum, then downclimb and traverse left to the top anchors for that route.

We also looked around for the rap anchors into the gully, but couldnt find them...maybe we passed them on the way to the top and didnt notice?

Also, we sort of decided that you can really get away with a single rack to 4" and a set and a half of stoppers- the doubles are not necessary as far as we could tell.
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Apr 17, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

We used a standard rack, nuts and cams to maybe four inches. Small cams (aliens) were useful in the hard-to-protect pitches. Over the shoulder runners are useful on several pitches, including the crux.
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Nov 11, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

This route is very good. The rumors of loose rock are true, but it has very little bad rock on it. Once this route see's a few more ascent's it will clean up nicely.
By alpinglow
From: city, state
Dec 17, 2007

I thought this route was a pile.

THe roof at the end reminded me of Vertigo in Eldo.

Cheers
By tenesmus
Feb 3, 2008

So, we couldn't see any gear on the first part of that traverse. The first hold I grabbed fell off in my hands and when I stood up to grab the next things didn't feel any better. To top it off, there isn't any gear we could see from the chimney, making a fall off that first 15' nasty as hell.

The book said there is a bolt anchor somewhere on the second pitch but we could see none. Having a little pro to shoot for on the first 15' would have made this doable. Did the fire change something up there or were we just looking at the wrong traverse?

Also, is the .10d variation on the first pitch chossing off? two crimps with rotten feet to bad gear and a fall onto a dead mountain holly? I want to go back and do the thing, but things were looking grim.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 30, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

tenesmus- the second pitch traverse involves a bit of down climbing before crossing the void- a cam up high mitigates this, but the crux has little/no gear (a microcam at your feet is possible).

on another note- i heard today that the horn (finishing jug) on the roof broke off during a recent ascent- i understand that the route still goes, but the horn is no longer there. I cannot confirm that the grade is still .11a, either.
By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Nov 16, 2009

The horn broke on me at it's tip but it's still a very very good jug,(sorry, momma grows em big), I can't comment on the grade as I didn't send, I had to pull on a piece to get over... The start seemed shady so we actually pulled the brass balls crux(very well bolted one-move wonder) and then traversed into spectrum from that... we also traversed from above the crux pitch directly into birdland before its crux without any problem(nice way to finish)... route was ok but we enjoyed taking turns watching big horn adolescents below us practicing ramming for pretty much the whole day!
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 30, 2010

If it is cold out and you are looking for a hard multi pitch route that does not have a huge approach (like Levitation) then this is a very nice option with some classic pitches and some hard climbing. I can't rate the route because I pulled on gear at the big roof (the jug at the lip is still there and it is great). I also cheated the first 10 feet of the initial variation pitch because it was choss and dangerous. However, with the exception of the initial 15 feet of the route the climbing was very nice. To get past the manky first 10 feet we did a shoulder stand, popped in a cam and aided for three moves - from then on it went free and the rock was bullet proof black varnish for every pitch except the traverse back into Birdland. The final crack pitch up Birdland is also not to be missed. The dihedral pitch down low is also an absolute gem - one of the best 5.9's around. I definitely recommend this for a cold winter day where you need a good all around climbing experience
By harihari
From: VANCOUVER
Nov 13, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R

Very good adventure climbing. I thought the roof was way harder than 11a but it's only 10 feet. Felt like V2 to me.

The route is either hard, or runout, but not both at the same time. Not a route for the budding 5.10 leader even tho most of it is in the 5.9 range...some serious runouts and the odd bit of sketchy rock.

At the top of P1, the traverse steps down and right. There is no gear for about the first 30 feet or so but the hardest move-- 5.9-- is right off the corner so even if you blow it the fall won't be too bad.

The last pitch goes on and on, and if you stick to fairly close to the arete/edge on the right, you will find the rap anchors (I did, in the dark).
By josh holcomb
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 20, 2013

Climbed this route today. Doubt I will repeat it. The rock quality is questionable. The long traversing runouts are on easy terrain. I did not step down at the start of the second pitch and still didn't think it was 10b.

Could someone explain why there is a bolt on the 5.7 3rd pitch and not at the start of the unnerving 2nd pitch. My partner didnt clip it as there was a .5 placement not too far above it.

It is possible to link the 3-4 pitch with a 70M. The fourth pitch is probably the best pitch on the route do to the quality of the rock and climbing.

The crux pitch is bouldery and well protected. Big moves to good holds. Not a ton of jamming technique neccessary. 11a is a good rating. It felt slightly easier than Risk Bros.

We finished with the splitter 5th pitch of Birdland. A nice treat after climbing all that choss!

Definitly wouldn't put this at the top of my tick list if I was visiting RR.