City of Rocks is a mecca of climbing, just over the Utah/Idaho border in rural Idaho. Varnished and pocketed granite is the name of the game here. The granite ages with an iron based varnish on it and when the varnish wears through, it forms pockets that wear faster than the varnish. The result is pockets with edges or just edges. The majority of the routes have mixed protection, so caution or knowledge is required as the bolts may stop halfway up the route.
Camping is permitted in City of Rocks in developed sites that they charge for. Reservations can be made by calling (208) 824-5519 up to 90 days in advance. Also, camping is permitted outside City of Rocks in BLM land. No charge for these undeveloped sites, however it is important that the area is kept clean and left as it was for this practice to be continued legally. The town of Almo has the nearest refreshments and food at the Almo Creek Outpost.
The history here is rich and deserves mentioning. The City of Rocks went by many names early on; Goblin City, Chapel Rocks, Pyramid Circle, and Ancient City were just a few of the monikers that were utilized by the early emigrants. They came through the area on their way to California for a better life, and the rock formations that take on many shapes and figures were a perfect landmark for them to use. As more and more of them came through they left their mark on some of the formations with axle grease.
The climbing history essentially began with the Steinfell Club in the early 1960's. As climbing grew in popularity so too did the impact of climbers. To preserve the nature and resources of the area, the NPS enacted strict rules on the bolting of new routes and also closed certain areas to climbing.
Getting There
To get to City of Rocks, take I-15 north to I-84 to Snowville. At Snowville, take exit 5 and go west on SR 30 for 15 miles. After SR 30 becomes Idaho SR 42, continue for another 9 miles until you hit 3600 south (Strevell Road). Go west on this road for about 17 miles. Turn right at the "Y" in the road and right one more time on Yost road. After 3 miles, you'll make a left turn onto Eye Rd. and stay on this road for 5 miles. Turn right on 825 East and then turn left immediately on 3075 South. Continue on this road into the City of Rocks.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for City of Rocks:
Adolescent Humanoid climbs the obvious long hand and finger crack on the west side of Lower Breadloaf. Great continuous climbing leads to the crux just below the top of the climb. An extremely popular route on an extremely popular wall. Walk left a few feet and rap from anchor's near the top of Double Crack....[more]Browse More Classics in ID
By Bobby Hanson From: Salt Lake City, UT Jun 23, 2005
This is the best summer/fall weekend road trip from SLC.
Beware, however, that there are many selfish inconsiderate people climbing in the City. See for example the toproping story on Wheat Thin. Another example: I waited around to climb Intruding Dike (a great 5.7**) while another party was on it. There was a second party on the route to the right. When the group on ID finished, I went to get on it. The guy leading the route to the right yelled down at me ``Hey, I'm next on that route!'' Apparantly he is under the impression that you can reserve routes while climbing others. Nevermind the fact that I waited around at the bottom for the climb to free up, while he decided to go climb something else (``I only got on this one because I didn't want to wait around at the bottom,'' he said). It turns out that the guy I was waiting on was this other guy's friend. He says, ``Yup, he was next on this one.'' I shook my head and told him that my rope is there, stacked, my gear is racked, and I'm ready to go; and he could get on it after me, that is if nobody got in line before he got down. Climbing Ethics used to be simple neighborly courtesy. Something has seriously changed.
I've seen such selfishness elsewhere, but it seems I always see it in the City.
Good for you, Bobby. I think that newbies think that they can just reserve routes for their convenience. The same thing happened to me in Eldorado Canyon, recently. I was unfurling my rope, to do a route, and a guy ran up the path, from about 300' away, to tell me that he was waiting in line. He had taken his gear with him and gone back to his car to have lunch. I laughed and told him that he might as well go back and enjoy his desert, because it was going to be awhile.
I shouldn't have singled out newbies, as bad manners aren't endemic to any particular person of group. This type of behavior does seem more common in the last few years. It is possible that it is a by-product of gym etiquette, where people leave their rope at the base of a route and then hang out in another part of the gym while they wait.
By John J. Glime From: Salt Lake City, UT Sep 14, 2005
For what it is worth, those of you that may be making your first visit to the City, you will be happy to know (maybe) that the grades, in my opinion, are either right on or a little soft. I have yet to come to a route that was sandbagged. They either are the grade or easier. I am reminded of this every time I am there. It's semi-comforting to know that you aren't going to climb and get in over your head.
The directions listed here (and in the Bingham guidebook) take you over a lot of dirt roads. Alternate, perhaps faster, directions from the South/East (Utah, Colorado, etc): Take I-84 west all the way to exit 245 (Sublett Road). This will take you through Malta and then on to Almo. The roads are ID-81 to ID-77 to the Elba-Almo Highway. This route adds a small amount of mileage, but the roads are entirely paved and you can travel much faster.
Gas can sometimes be had at Tracy's general store in Almo. There is also a good gas station in the town of Malta that takes credit cards at the pump.
Water is available at a tap at the information pullout across from Bath Rock or at the pump by the Breadloaves.
If you make reservations, you have to make them at least two days in advance. Every campsite was booked for Fourth of July weekend this year ('06), and I hear this is common. Reservations can easily be made online, but there's a $6 fee to do so.
I was there over the fourth and it was awesome. All of June and so far in July it has been raining right around 4 pm so make sure you aren't stuck up on a multi-pitch.
I did some climbing @ Site 18 on a trip in July, I was wondering if a local could post the beta for that area... I remember a couple of 5.7's in the middle of the wall, a 5.8 on the left(super fun), and a 5.9 on the right(also super fun)... Can't remeber the names though. I thought site 18 was a great morning get away. Wasn't crowded, but shady for most of the morning. It would be a great addition to MP...
If you ever see some old codgers driving around in beat up trucks, be sure to talk to them. One guy we talked to had a veritable museum in his rig including an old trapper rifle (Winchester??) from way out back somewhere in the City.
The local gas station is(was) closed on Sunday. Plan accordingly...
Does the most current Bingham guide have an error on the Bath rock page? It looks like one of the photos is printed twice and the route descriptions for that photo have been omitted.
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO May 23, 2007
Josh, you are correct. There are a few issues with the description of one side of Bath Rock in the new guidebook.
all true about the grades i felt as well when i used to climb there, that they are felt to me to be right on or alittle soft. the exception to this is double cracks 5.10a on king on the throne. try it and see what you think, especially onsite.
Here is some info about the climate in Oakley which is close by. Average high temp in March is 50.8 degrees F, average low temp is 27.7. Find a sunny wall in the afternoon and it just might work. This site will give you weather history.
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Jan 30, 2009
I, uhh, climbed back on 18 January on the back side of Bath Rock. No wind, perfect temps, t-shirt for me, my partner climbed shirtless. So, if its sunny and no wind, can be just fine most any time in the winter. Note: road only passible to Bath Rock (snowpacked past that, but, plowed to the big parking lot/info kiosk in front of Bath Rock as of 18 January). Cheers.
Can anyone give more beta on the free camping, I guess on BLM land, mentioned in the description. Where is it/how far is it from the climbing? Is it pleasant camping (trees, streams, etc), or kinda junky (dusty plains)? I have never been there, but I'm thinking of stopping there on an extended roadtrip, possible sometime in August. Would it be too hot then? How long could I reasonable plan to stay? Is there enough climbing to entertain me for a few weeks (looking at mostly 5.11-5.12, preferably trad, but whatever). Anyways, thanks in advance for all the great beta! -Scott
Price.. met you this weekend at the Crack of doom. There's a picof your buddy above and a few on the COD page. Send me an adress and I'll mail you a disk.
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