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Routes in Parking Lot Rock - Northeast

Bombs Over Tripoli S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cairo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Inspiration or Perspiration S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thin Slice T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Tenney
Page Views: 12,897 total, 73/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 8, 2003
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

Thin Slice is one of the best 5.10a trad climbs at the City. It is found on the north east side of Parking Lot rock, just east of Cario (5.11a).

The climb starts in a right facing dihedral, and follows a juggy crack with good gear. A small bulge is pulled and the crux finger crack is just above. Figure out the tricky moves along a finger crack and you will arrive at a ledge with 2 bolts. An extra finger sized cam (#1 friend) will be helpful in the upper finger crack.

Protection

Gear to 2 inches, extra finger sized cams
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Amazing and totally G-rated with a standard rack. This thing eats nuts. I was worried about using my finger-sized cams and conserved them after reading the beta that doubles are recommended, and I never ended up even using them. The beta about rappelling this route and swinging over to climber's right to wrap the rope around the nice rock horn to keep the rope out of the crack is spot on. Sep 6, 2017
Fallon Rowe
Logan, UT
  5.10a
Fallon Rowe   Logan, UT
  5.10a
Amazing. I felt like it was MUCH easier than Bloody Fingers, but it depends on your style. Super fun, totally a must-do for any City tradster. Jun 20, 2017
Colin Szehner
Oakland, Ca
Colin Szehner   Oakland, Ca
awesome climb with mostly thin gear for the majority. steep gym climbing to technical thin climbing. Sep 7, 2016
David Steele  
 
So much fun. The platform below the anchors has nice patina flakes to bracket the rope when you rap, so use them to avoid adding your rope to the others stuck in the jaws of the crack to the left.

Felt easier than Bloody Fingers, but this is more steep jugs/crack technique, whereas BF is more slab techniques. Jun 21, 2016
DennisL
Bishop, CA
  5.10b
DennisL   Bishop, CA
  5.10b
WOW. Climb it! May 11, 2014
slim

  5.10a
slim    
  5.10a
really fun route. neat features, eats gear. deservedly popular. Aug 5, 2013
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I would definitely recommend you rappel this route. You can see the remnants of more than one cut rope jammed in the crack at the top. Hook your rope over a large bump on the way down and rap just right of the crack. You can still clean all of your gear. I also needed a much smaller rack. The largest piece of gear I used was a .5 C4 and even those were too large for much of the finger crack. Plenty of great rests to stop and plan your next moves though. Awesome route!! Jun 16, 2012
Mark D Evans
Sandy, UT
  5.9+
Mark D Evans   Sandy, UT
  5.9+
Absolutely great climbing, wow!! I felt it was a little soft for the grade in the area. Aug 27, 2011
Alec LaLonde
  5.10a
Alec LaLonde  
  5.10a
Holy crap this thing is fun. Gear-protected overhanging jugs to a splitter finger crack. Great feet the whole way. Very photogenic with great gear the whole way -- do it! Jun 27, 2011
Nicholas Yaskoff
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Nicholas Yaskoff   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
A fantastic line that shouldn’t be missed. I felt it was on par with other 10a’s in the area in terms of difficulty. Aesthetically speaking the route is inspiring. May 18, 2009
Brice W
  5.10a
Brice W  
  5.10a
This felt more sustained to me than Bloody Fingers, but still great fun. The bottom part does climb like a sport climb. The whole route took great gear. A 60M rope doesn't quite reach down to the nice ledge for the TR. Sep 8, 2008
rpc
 
rpc  
 
I also thought it was harder than Bloody Fingers and not as good. Mar 25, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10a
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10a
Looking up from the base I opt out of leading this route as it looks, well, "thin". I'm not a huge fan of using only small gear. What a mistake! The route is for ladies fingers and a great size. sm-med nuts, TCU's to 2" cams. Watch for chopped ropes in the cracks. Chain anchors.

I won't make the same mistake next time.

Susan Aug 14, 2007
Iain Morris
  5.10a
Iain Morris  
  5.10a
What a sweet crack up high! Jul 30, 2007
David Shiembob
slc, ut
 
David Shiembob   slc, ut
 
So good! It climbs like a sport climb until the finger jams in the upper crack... May 15, 2007
Wavey
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10-
Wavey   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10-
great moves. climbs like a sport climb. 10- Mar 22, 2007
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
I actually thought this one was kinda easy for the grade. Easier than Bloody Fingers and WAAAAY easier than Double Cracks. Outstanding, intimidating climb. Nov 28, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.10b
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10b
Another great line. Don't miss this one. I felt a tad harder than Bloody Fingers, and a lot less secure. I remember thinking to myself as I looked up at it, "This doesn't look all that great". Man, was I wrong. Sep 11, 2006