Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 739 total · 14/month
Shared By: bheller on Jun 29, 2014
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

A long and varied route! Boyle certainly had an eye for the odd! Or was it just that the obvious plums had already been plucked? Powerful and tricky moves down low on a grainy and lichen covered slab give way to a taxing undercling sequence about a third of the way up. A short section of tricky face climbing with great patina crimps set you up on a long gritty, lichen covered slab with spaced out bolts (supplemental gear- see protection section). Finally, above the slab you get to the goods- overhanging granite huecos! Underclings, slopers, delicate stems and sneaky crack climbing skills are needed for this enduro finale. A very airy and pumpy finish! 12a power down low, and 12b endurance at the top. Many bolts are poorly placed in difficult to clip locations... as far as I can tell this is the timestamp of the early Boyle routes.

Location

This route is just right of Bombs Over Tripoli (12a) and down hill and to the left from Thin Slice (10a). The chain anchors at the top are placed over a roof and the result it a lot of drag while lowering...consider rappelling.

Protection

Bolts. A #1 camalot tames the potential ground fall between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. Finger sized cams and or nuts can be placed in the crack on the middle slab section and would be helpful to soothe the timid.

Photos

- No Photos -
bheller
SL UT
  5.12b
bheller   SL UT
  5.12b
Check out the upper right corner of Nicola Masciandaro's photo under the Bombs Over Tripoli(12a) posting to see the finishing cracks and huecos of Inspiration or Perspiration?. Jun 30, 2014
There is a hard to spot midway anchor with chains that allows one to work the bottom and top sections of this burly line independently. I'd call the bottom 12a, the top kicked my ass. May 7, 2016
Some of the bots on the top are hard to see but the line is pretty much straight up from the first two on the heaco part. Bolts are healthy. A bit tricky to figure everything out up top but actually decent rests interspersed. Jun 5, 2017
Josh Janes    
 
A sumo suit for your belayer is helpful if you blow the gritty slab moves (which might be the crux) getting off the ground. Sep 7, 2017