Inspiration or Perspiration

A long and varied route! Boyle certainly had an eye for the odd! Or was it just that the obvious plums had already been plucked? Powerful and tricky moves down low on a grainy and lichen covered slab give way to a taxing undercling sequence about a third of the way up. A short section of tricky face climbing with great patina crimps set you up on a long gritty, lichen covered slab with spaced out bolts (supplemental gear- see protection section). Finally, above the slab you get to the goods- overhanging granite huecos! Underclings, slopers, delicate stems and sneaky crack climbing skills are needed for this enduro finale. A very airy and pumpy finish! 12a power down low, and 12b endurance at the top. Many bolts are poorly placed in difficult to clip locations... as far as I can tell this is the timestamp of the early Boyle routes.

This route is just right of Bombs Over Tripoli (12a) and down hill and to the left from Thin Slice (10a). The chain anchors at the top are placed over a roof and the result it a lot of drag while lowering...consider rappelling.

Bolts. A #1 camalot tames the potential ground fall between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. Finger sized cams and or nuts can be placed in the crack on the middle slab section and would be helpful to soothe the timid.