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Thin Slice

5.10a, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 636 votes
FA: Tenney
Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks > Parking Lot Rock > Parking Lot Rock - No…
Warning Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description

Thin Slice is one of the best 5.10a trad climbs at the City. It is found on the north east side of Parking Lot rock, just east of Cario (5.11a).

The climb starts in a right facing dihedral, and follows a juggy crack with good gear. A small bulge is pulled and the crux finger crack is just above. Figure out the tricky moves along a finger crack and you will arrive at a ledge with 2 bolts. An extra finger sized cam (#1 friend) will be helpful in the upper finger crack.

Protection

Gear to 2 inches, extra finger sized cams

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Charlie S. staying cool in the summer temps.
[Hide Photo] Charlie S. staying cool in the summer temps.
thin slice
[Hide Photo] thin slice
Looking down Thin Slice.
[Hide Photo] Looking down Thin Slice.
Thin Slice
[Hide Photo] Thin Slice
Wall shot of the route
[Hide Photo] Wall shot of the route
Thin Slice
[Hide Photo] Thin Slice
Fun steep climbing leads to a thin crack on the upper face...
[Hide Photo] Fun steep climbing leads to a thin crack on the upper face...
Splitter! Favorite route at the City so far
[Hide Photo] Splitter! Favorite route at the City so far
Climber on Thin Slice
[Hide Photo] Climber on Thin Slice
Pulling through the steep jugs
[Hide Photo] Pulling through the steep jugs
Down low on the route.
[Hide Photo] Down low on the route.
Ben on Thin Slice
[Hide Photo] Ben on Thin Slice

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nathan Fisher
West Bountiful
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Another great line. Don't miss this one. I felt a tad harder than Bloody Fingers, and a lot less secure. I remember thinking to myself as I looked up at it, "This doesn't look all that great". Man, was I wrong. Sep 11, 2006
Wavey
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] great moves. climbs like a sport climb. 10- Mar 22, 2007
David Shiembob
slc, ut
 
[Hide Comment] So good! It climbs like a sport climb until the finger jams in the upper crack... May 15, 2007
Iain Morris
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] What a sweet crack up high! Jul 30, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Looking up from the base I opt out of leading this route as it looks, well, "thin". I'm not a huge fan of using only small gear. What a mistake! The route is for ladies fingers and a great size. sm-med nuts, TCU's to 2" cams. Watch for chopped ropes in the cracks. Chain anchors.

I won't make the same mistake next time.

Susan Aug 14, 2007
rpc
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] I also thought it was harder than Bloody Fingers and not as good. Mar 25, 2008
Brice W
Front Range, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] This felt more sustained to me than Bloody Fingers, but still great fun. The bottom part does climb like a sport climb. The whole route took great gear. A 60M rope doesn't quite reach down to the nice ledge for the TR. Sep 8, 2008
Nicholas Yaskoff
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] A fantastic line that shouldn’t be missed. I felt it was on par with other 10a’s in the area in terms of difficulty. Aesthetically speaking the route is inspiring. May 18, 2009
Alec L
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Holy crap this thing is fun. Gear-protected overhanging jugs to a splitter finger crack. Great feet the whole way. Very photogenic with great gear the whole way -- do it! Jun 27, 2011
Mark Evans
Cottonwood Heights, UT
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Absolutely great climbing, wow!! I felt it was a little soft for the grade in the area. Aug 27, 2011
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] I would definitely recommend you rappel this route. You can see the remnants of more than one cut rope jammed in the crack at the top. Hook your rope over a large bump on the way down and rap just right of the crack. You can still clean all of your gear. I also needed a much smaller rack. The largest piece of gear I used was a .5 C4 and even those were too large for much of the finger crack. Plenty of great rests to stop and plan your next moves though. Awesome route!! Jun 16, 2012
slim

  5.10a
[Hide Comment] really fun route. neat features, eats gear. deservedly popular. Aug 5, 2013
DennisL
Bishop, CA
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] WOW. Climb it! May 11, 2014
[Hide Comment] So much fun. The platform below the anchors has nice patina flakes to bracket the rope when you rap, so use them to avoid adding your rope to the others stuck in the jaws of the crack to the left.

Felt easier than Bloody Fingers, but this is more steep jugs/crack technique, whereas BF is more slab techniques. Jun 21, 2016
Colin Szehner
Oakland, Ca
[Hide Comment] awesome climb with mostly thin gear for the majority. steep gym climbing to technical thin climbing. Sep 7, 2016
Fallon Rowe
St G, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Amazing. I felt like it was MUCH easier than Bloody Fingers, but it depends on your style. Super fun, totally a must-do for any City tradster. Jun 20, 2017
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
[Hide Comment] Amazing and totally G-rated with a standard rack. This thing eats nuts. I was worried about using my finger-sized cams and conserved them after reading the beta that doubles are recommended, and I never ended up even using them. The beta about rappelling this route and swinging over to climber's right to wrap the rope around the nice rock horn to keep the rope out of the crack is spot on. Sep 6, 2017
Michael Leary
Los Angeles, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Favorite moderate trad route at the city. A great route for newer trad leaders wanting to get more familiar with splitters and thin crack climbing. Sep 22, 2018
Alex Zucca
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] This takes mostly 0.3-0.5 cams (have 2-3 of each to sew it up). Also many places for nuts. Nowhere to place anything larger than a 1. Jun 16, 2019
michalm
  5.9
[Hide Comment] The anchors have been fitted with durable lower-off hardware courtesy of the ASCA. To support work like this donate today at safeclimbing.org Oct 5, 2020
Sarah Lydecker
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] This was a great first 10a trad climb. Juggy holds at the bottom allow for bold and fun movement and then a balancy top section will have you walking your .3 up all the way if you didn’t bring multiples. Sep 30, 2021
Mike Wilkinson
Lexington, KY
 
[Hide Comment] Take all your .3 cams. Made my fingers much more bloody than bloody fingers, and thought the crux move on this was harder than any move on BF. Climbs way better than it looks. Rap/lower to the right to avoid getting your rope stuck in the crack. Jun 11, 2022
Brandon Marshal
Victor, ID
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Interesting to see all the comparisons to Bloody Fingers. I think it probably comes down to what you prefer more, steep hands or steep fingers? The first time I led Thin Slice (two years ago) I used too much small gear low and things got sparse and spicy up high, with an ultimate whip and stuck nut. Returned yesterday, taking care to conserve finger sized gear on the lower face and was rewarded with a well protected 5.10- lead on one of the most striking steep cracks in the City. This one has a bit of everything, an interesting water groove low, a remarkably steep but surprisingly manageable trad-protected 5.9 jug fest in the middle and a beautiful, perfect, finger crack finish with only a few moves of real lock-to-lock climbing before the ubiquitous bail-out patina emerges. Four stars! Aug 7, 2023
Dave Medara
Truckee, CA
[Hide Comment] One of my favorite routes in the City. Did it last week after 2 decades without a visit. Just as good as I remember. Jun 16, 2025