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Routes in Parking Lot Rock - Northeast

Bombs Over Tripoli S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cairo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Inspiration or Perspiration S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thin Slice T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Dave Bingham
Page Views: 4,590 total · 36/month
Shared By: Bryan K. on Jan 8, 2008
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

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26 Opinions

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Description

First climbed by Dave Bingham in 1984 with only three bolts!! The route was retro-bolted in 1988. Begin by climbing a large juniper then stepping on to a thin technical face. Make a difficult move to a layback (crux) which gains a very thin insecure crack.

Location

The route is located on the northeast face of Parkinglot Rock. Look for bolts leading to a small seam. This route has great shade in the afternoon, making it an excellent choice for warm days.

Protection

Draws to 2-bolt anchor

Photos

camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
 
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
 
Great route; the crack is incredibly insecure, with only a few good fingerlocks. The final traverse beneath the anchors definitely keeps it sustained as well. Difficult second clip. Sep 5, 2009
Alex Herbert
Bozeman, MT
Alex Herbert   Bozeman, MT
Currently missing third bolt. It fell off as I was rapping down to clean it this weekend, I couldn't find the nut to replace it Oct 10, 2010
I was there a few weeks ago, and found the bolt was still missing. Try to stick-clip past it but, could not find a stick long enough. Talk to a ranger that day and informed him of the missing hanger. He said he would replace it the next day, but never had a chance to return and verify. Jul 20, 2011
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
the 2nd bolt is back. Jul 25, 2011
Thank You Brad!! Brad has just gone in and retro fitted this route!! after the third hanger went missing again last week, Brad and another ranger went to replace it. I believe (did not go verify with my own eyes) that they also replaced the anchors and a few other suspect bolts. should be ready to go. Jun 22, 2012
As of 6/16/13 all bolts / hangers present. Get on it! Jun 17, 2013
R.Walters  
 
Call me weak, but I was happy to have a yellow tcu between the ~6th and 7th bolts.
Hats off to Dave for establishing this thing in such bold style. Apr 17, 2017
Where's Walden
  5.12-
Where's Walden  
  5.12-
I brought the yellow tcu and placed it, but if I didn't have it with me I wouldnt have thought much of the bolt spacing anyway. I always used to think the climbing before and after the crack would just be filler. Boy was I wrong! I wish I could say I onsighted, but I had a single footslip while resting on good holds. And I felt so solid!!! Jun 17, 2017

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