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Toad Rock Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Toad Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Fingers and Toads T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
	Mr. Toad's Wild Ride T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Toddlers and Toadstools T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

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Elevation:	6,260 ft	1,908 m
GPS:	42.06953, -113.70961 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	4,301 total · 48/month
Shared By:	Orphaned User on Oct 21, 2018
Admins:	GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Description

A rather minor formation, Toad Rock is not in Dave's gorgeous new guide. Still, it's worthy of consideration if you've got new climbers, climbers who fear heights, or climbers looking for an introduction to place traditional gear.

Perhaps because Practice Rock is called Practice Rock that feature gets the most attention for new climbers. So, while the hordes swarm Practice Rock, head over to Toad Rock and enjoy the fun and easy climbing. Arguably, the routes on Toad Rock are better suited to the burgeoning rock climber. Routes from 5.easy to 5.4 with big holds and a thirty second approach. What's not to love?

I've listed three obvious lines on this formation, but nearly any line up the southwest face is easy and protectable. The leader in your party will likely feel comfortable soloing any of these lines in hiking shoes.

Note: This rock has no fixed hardware. (Hopefully, it will stay that way!)

The remarkably featured face and top of this formation offer abundant opportunities to protect your climbing and build safe anchors. All you need is a long sling to minimize rope drag if setting up a toprope for the young (or not so young!) climbers in your group.

To descend the routes on Toad Rock, down climb/scramble Fingers and Toads.

*It's quite possible this rock has been named. Having not seen it in print or online, I've taken the liberty to apply some names.

Getting There

Approximately 200 meters north of Elephant Rock (250 meters southwest of Practice Rock), directly across the main road from Campsite #5, a somewhat nondescript looking formation rises just off the road. From the east, nothing particular draws one's attention, which explains, perhaps, why this fine rock is so seldom climbed.

Park at the Elephant Rock pull-out, or park in the pull-off (room for one car only) just south of Toad Rock. All routes are on the west face.

Note: If parking at Elephant Rock, please walk up the road and cut left directly at Toad Road (a faint climber's trail is visible next to one-car pull-out). Do NOT walk up the drainage through the field between the two rocks. There is no need to create additional trails to Toad Rock.