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Routes in Bath Rock - West

Coffee and Cornflakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Colossus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Donini's Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gemini S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Loch Ness Monster S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maximum Impact T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Private Idaho T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rollercoaster S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Taranula S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Whip, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wild Country T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: R. Hong, M. Fischer, Pampe, Miles, Lightner, 1988
Page Views: 15,228 total, 76/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 11, 2001
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

This is the most popular line on the back side of Bath. Start just right of Private Idaho. The climb trends left through a low roof. The crux is pulling left through the large hueco at about 60ft.

Protection

Draws...
Dr. Long Arm
  5.10c
Dr. Long Arm  
  5.10c
Awesome climb! Especially at night after a beer. Bring your headlamp! Jul 10, 2015
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
 
Very Do-able 10c - IMO 3 powerful 10c moves and the rest is cruiser. Tricky getting to the bolt under the crux, but then well protected fantastic finish. I'd Stick clip the first bolt unless very comfortable on polished slab. Oct 29, 2013
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
 
I live for trad climbing and this still stood out to me as the best climb we did at the City. The features, the exposure, and the movement on this one are just too cool for school. Sep 24, 2013
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.10c
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.10c
I'm surprised no-one has mentioned the "roll onto the ledge" mantel just after the hueco undercling/layback...

This is a very cool climb. Sep 25, 2012
Ben2
Bend, OR
  5.10c
Ben2   Bend, OR
  5.10c
I found the crux very doable but a little reachy for persons at the extreme height of 5'4" or below. My beta: find some good "nothings" for your feet, trust them and go. Some fun, somewhat powerful moves on this route. Aug 24, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Standing in the hueco is going off route because you have to reverse it just to get back to where you were to continue. That seems like it's off of the line to me. But I never said you wouldn't grab a flake on the upper left edge of it with your right hand for a side-pull or under-cling, so I don't think we disagree. Aug 15, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10c
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10c
Two previous trips to the City and all we did was drive past Bath Rock thinking it was shite. This year we head over one morning and jump on this route as our first route of the day. What Fun! The start is a bit sloper and gets you thinking you may have bitten off more than you can chew but are welcomed by a second bolt and bigger holds. The mid portion of the route is easy chicken heads that goes at about 5.8 then things start to get vertical again. Unlike what Tony said, I didn't find the hueco to be off route. I used the large hueco as a side pull for my right and moved my feet up allowing me to clip the next bolt. The business doesn't stop there....a few more moves including getting your feet on a sloping ledge before getting to the chain anchors.

Very fun - 9 bolts + chain anchors.

Susan Aug 14, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Great route and honest at the grade, unless you are short. The crux is a reach that will probably get very hard (dynamic) below 5'7" in height.
Lots of chalk leads up and right away from the crux and into a large hueco off route, which is fine for a rest, but you can't get back on from there wthout climbing back down. May 1, 2007
426
 
426  
 
Excellent stuff! Mar 21, 2007
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
The holds under the first roof are getting very polished from the heavy traffic on this route. Sep 20, 2006
Xover  
Some ok-fun moves and exposed at the crux, but the greasiness has truly detracted from this climb over time. I personally wouldn't recommend it to anyone; there are alot better similar face climbs of equal grade in the City. Sep 11, 2006
John Bradford
Yellowstone National Park
  5.10c
John Bradford   Yellowstone National Park
  5.10c
One of the best at the City, a great pull over the roof, and an exciting finish. Every move is a lot of fun. Oct 8, 2005
Nathan Fisher
  5.10c
Nathan Fisher  
  5.10c
9 bolts on route to the anchors. This is THE face route of it's grade for me, so far at the city. Very exposed crux as you undercling that oh so hollow sounding flake. Then the next 4 or so moves don't let up. Very committing, and I mean VERY committing. Sep 5, 2005
ROC
Englewood, CO
ROC   Englewood, CO
Great climb!!! Definately one of the must do's for any City trip. The crux is exposed but short. Decent clip off the hueco. Clip that bolt and go for it!! 2 to 3 hard pulls puts you on the big ledge. The moves are well protected so don't even think of taking, just do it!!! Aug 18, 2004