Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Morning Glory Spire

Book of Dissent T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brown Flake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Easiest Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fall Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morning Glory S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Power Tools S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Reach for the Sky T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Siesta S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strategic Defense T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Veal Cage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Steinfell Club, 1960's
Page Views: 17,806 total, 108/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 5, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


430 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

On the NW side, just left of the bolted line that comes off the ledge is this relatively easy ascent path to the top. It follows a crack/flake system whick ends at a difficult to attain (and protect) ledge move. Move right on the ledge and face climb to get to the leftward traversing overhead crack that becomes another flake/crack system. After a while exit this crack and finish on the highly features face with sparse but adequate protection.

Protection

A standard rack will be sufficient with an emphasis on the small gear. Runners are also handy.
ska75  
This route is located on the morning glory spire. Beautiful line with spicy section, the gear is pretty good, though it gets a little thin and run out of the top

Here is a video I put together. Hope you enjoy!!

youtube.com/watch?v=H8HqqGH… Nov 14, 2017
probably right Bheller, who care right climbing is fun :) Nov 11, 2016
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Gunk's grades are lies Andrew...don't ever use them as standards. Skyline has been 5.8 for 60 years...the underling is the crux and is over quickly. High Exposure is not accurately graded for US standards. I've climbed both routes many times and as a strange as it may seem at the 5.8 grade, High exposure would be more of a power endurance 5.8 where Skyline would be more Bouldery. Both routes are among my favorites. Jul 25, 2016
Great climb and a classic, however comparing it to "City" routes I feel it is easier than Fred 5.8, White Flake 5.8 and Triple Roofs 5.7. In comparing it to High Exposure 5.6 in the Gunks, it is easier. I am saying 5.6. Jul 25, 2016
Roy Suggett
  5.8+
Roy Suggett  
  5.8+
There are easy ways to avoid problems like the above mentioned mishap. Sep 28, 2015
Will Wright
Phoenix
Will Wright   Phoenix
Left two Backcountry heliums at the top of this climb last night 6/13/15. If found my friend would be most grateful if you PM me to return them.

Please be aware that a 60M rope will NOT reach the ground if the descender is to the anywhere to the left of the ledge the climb starts on. Advice to the contrary found in a guidebook contributed to a fall and broken ankle -- lucky we dodged more severe injuries or death! I advise to use at least 70m rope for however you choose to get off this climb. Jun 15, 2015
Matt Steubing
Salt Lake City, Utah
Matt Steubing   Salt Lake City, Utah
If you can sit through the video on this link (sorry it's long) you'll get a good look at this amazing route and the quality of the rock. No question the best 5.8 in the City. This is a few years ago and so it's a GoPro Hero 1. Love the view at the top.

youtu.be/2O3hwZgqFrY Nov 22, 2014
S.Lee
 
S.Lee  
 
Amazing route, one of my first leads. Lots of great stopper placements. May 20, 2014
grk10vq    
8+ Nov 13, 2013
I was unaware that the route broke right at the bulge to follow the left trending under cling and instead I climbed straight up the bulge with micro gear through the seam. It was certainly harder than 5.8, but does anybody know what it goes at?

Great climb! Nov 12, 2013
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
 
Fantastic Route mostly because of view from top/location. A 70m rope is enough to comfortably rap on. Intimidating Undercling start probably 5.8, but well protected with small gear prior to committing fully. The vast majority of this route is cruiser 5.6/7. Must do! Oct 29, 2013
K Baumgartner
  5.7
K Baumgartner  
  5.7
Undercling move was underwhelming. Extend your runners to reduce drag. 70m gets you down to the ledge where Fall Line commences. Jun 27, 2013
RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
RKM   Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
You can downclimb Morning Glory Spire on the south side - probaly 5.5/6 - should you ever find yourself on top without a rope. Nov 23, 2012
wasatch-mtn-man  
  5.8
Never feels insecure. Traverse gets your attention with only adequate feet but the undercling is solid and takes gear well. Protected upper face with several horizontal C4's but really is easy climbing once you leave the crack. Bucket land from there all the way to the top with an amazing top-out and view. Sweet climb. Jun 15, 2012
Chrisleath
Johnson City, TN
 
Chrisleath   Johnson City, TN
 
this is a must do. Keep climbing all the way to the top for the anchors. Great juggs for the final push. "Hero holds" Apr 16, 2012
A fun route with a great view at the summit...but 4 stars? I thought the best part of the route was the "crux" traverse, and the rest just so-so. I would give batwings 4 stars over this line. Just my opinion. Oct 5, 2011
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
the "crux" traverse really is not that bad. Can easily put in two good pieces along the way with good hands and adequate feet. Such a cool climb and yes a 60 meter (contrary to the guidebook) will get you down. Jun 27, 2010
Classic line! One 60m rope will just reach when rapping from the top anchors. Aug 23, 2009
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.8
Best 5.8 in the City! Jul 19, 2009
Fat Paul
Central, NJ
Fat Paul   Central, NJ
Had to bail from route just above crux in hail storm on 6/5. Use a long sling to extend your bail anchor to avoid crack from eating your rope. Jun 12, 2009
Amy Denicke
Aspen, CO
Amy Denicke   Aspen, CO
This was my first trad lead and even though I had to downclimb to lengthen the sling at the crux undercling, it was such a fabulous climb. Highly recommended!!! Jun 25, 2007
sqwirll
Las Vegas
 
sqwirll   Las Vegas
 
I didn't think the upper face was sparsely protected at all. There are numerous places to put nuts between patina plates, very similar to Red Rocks. May 29, 2007
Not nearly as runout as I remembered it. Bring small cams for the upper face and you can sew it up. A great lead for a 5.8-5.9 leader. Sep 5, 2005
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
 
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Wow! Be sure to climb this route, it is excellent. Aug 19, 2005
One of the great climbs at the city! You may have to wait in line for this one but it's worth it. View from the top is as spectacular as the climb. The bottom half is killer and the runout upper half is easy but so much fun. Jul 26, 2004