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Routes in Bumblie Rock

Bumble Pie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bumblie Takes a Tumblie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flight of the Bumblie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Miki's Six T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
New York Is Not The City S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Return of the Bumblie S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Too Much Fun S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Bumblie S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Kevin Pogue, 1987
Page Views: 17,159 total, 111/month
Shared By: John Bradford on Mar 31, 2005 with updates
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


247 Opinions

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Description

Long and fun, with an exciting opening sequence. Best to belay from the top, and there is a good ledge. Two ropes to rappell off. This route is in the first big turn off along the path along the base of the wall. Enjoy!

Protection

18 bolts to chain anchors

Location

When you approach via the Flaming Rock trailhead, it dumps you out at the southwest corner of Bumblie Rock. Too Much Fun is on the right side of the west face in a nice little clearing.
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Bottom (at the second bolt) is more like 5.9, and might even be in the 5.10s for shorter climbers. Other than that, enjoy this gorgeously sustained 5.7/5.8 face climbing. Sep 6, 2017
Roy Suggett  
 
Skipping bolts is the way to go...still fun however. Oct 12, 2016
zach cook
Boise, ID
zach cook   Boise, ID
Extremely just okay....... Aug 31, 2015
Andy Shoemaker  
  5.9
Classic for sure. We used 2 ropes to get down. Beware of the trees down there, we got on rope pretty well stuck on the way down. Just pay attention to where you toss your ropes and you should be alright. The start is a bit reachy, but after that its just sustained 5.8/5.9 all the way up. 4 stars! Aug 18, 2014
Rob Stinogle  
 
18 bolts to an amazing ledge with chains. Take in the view! I trailed a rope up with me, then tied both ropes together to rap down. Jul 8, 2014
Lindsey Robinson
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Lindsey Robinson   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Guess I should have read the comments (not the description) about the real # of bolts... I ended up skipping 3 bolts because I was short on QDs and it was no problem, but just plan accordingly so you don't end up short or down-climbing to retrieve draws (like I saw another group do). May 19, 2014
Dr. Long Arm
  5.8
Dr. Long Arm  
  5.8
Not much to say about this one that hasn't already been said. This is a fun, straightforward, and tall climb. It's very well protected so even a newbie leader will enjoy this route. The first 10-15 feet are a little weird and out of character compared to the rest of the route, but after that it's a cruiser! Oct 19, 2013
Jaren Watson
Boise, Idaho
  5.8
Jaren Watson   Boise, Idaho
  5.8
A single 70m rope will definitely not get you down. As of the middle of August this year, someone had left/installed a mid-route heavy-duty quicklink, allowing for two single-rope raps, but keep in mind before leaving the ground there's a chance that link will not be there. Sep 5, 2013
Trevor.
Boise, ID
  5.8+
Trevor.   Boise, ID
  5.8+
This is a really fun long pitch. 18 bolts to chains located on a great belay ledge. I've always used two ropes to get down but someone was telling me that a single 70m just barely gets you to the ledge right off the ground. Don't take my word for it though. Sep 4, 2013
RKM
Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
RKM   Alpine, Utah and Almo, Idaho
 
You can scramble down from this route by heading north along the ridge crest. Some downclimbing at the very end before hooking up with the trail back to the base - should you ever find yourself on top without a rope. Jan 9, 2013
hotlum
Bend, Oregon
hotlum   Bend, Oregon
One of the best .8's ANYWHERE. A must do for climbers of all abilities .8 and up. Jul 9, 2011
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.9-
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.9-
This is a great climb.

When you pull your rope, stand way over to your left (as you face the route, looking up) and give it a good pull. The wind blew our rope into the cracks to the right and it got stuck. Sep 7, 2010
wasatch-mtn-man
  5.8+
wasatch-mtn-man  
  5.8+
Loved this route. Long, variable climbing to top. Bottom is indeed a bit harder for shorter climbers. I'm 6'1" and felt I could barely reach some of the holds at the bottom but I loved that section as well as the steeper jug-haul just above the opening sequences. I think the bottom is more like a 5.9. HIGHLY RECOMMEND! Aug 27, 2010
Ken Gibby
Saratoga Springs, UT
  5.9-
Ken Gibby   Saratoga Springs, UT
  5.9-
Maybe because it was cold and rainy it felt harder than the 5.8 rating. It certainly seemed at least as difficult as Private Idaho. Anyway, it's 18 bolts, not the 15 it states in the guidebook. Super fun, though. All the bolts are at least 8 feet apart so I wouldn't recommend skipping any. Jun 14, 2010
Fink Fink
Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
  5.8-
Fink Fink   Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
  5.8-
Hmm...what is the opposite of an R rating? G doesn't begin to describe... Mar 28, 2010
Mattcbh
  5.8
Mattcbh  
  5.8
This was lots of fun. I beleive it is more like 17 or 18 bolts, unless you want to skipp some. I did skip the first one and still ran out of quickdraws near the top. Had a couple binners to protect though, because I'm a pansy. Oct 3, 2009
kyber
Portland
 
kyber   Portland
 
just to note: you can rap directly off the other side to chomping at the bit (transformers corridor) and then use those anchors to get down if you dont wanna carry two ropes up... Sep 15, 2008
don vincent
Salt Lake City, Utah
don vincent   Salt Lake City, Utah
Climbed this route in August 2007. Requires 18 quick draws plus another two for the anchor. Sep 17, 2007
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.8
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.8
Not to be missed... The start felt hard maybe 5.8+, but I am 6'3" so it may be harder for shorter people... Dec 2, 2006
Jared Hargrave
Salt Lake City, UT.
Jared Hargrave   Salt Lake City, UT.
My favorite climb at COR so far. I thought it was a very consistent 5.8 from bottom to top, with the first move to the second bolt being the hardest move on the climb. Bring plenty of draws! I brought 16 quickdraws and ran out, having to skip 2 bolts near the top. Luckily the final moves are easy. Great view from the top! Aug 16, 2006
46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8
One of the best 5.8 climbs on earth IMHO!!! Take a whole bunch of draws and possibly borrow your climbing buddies to make all the clips. Start is kinda tough for shorter folks! Jul 17, 2006
flynn  
Amen to the height-dependent difficulty comment. I'm 5' 5" on a tall day, and the sequence between the first and second bolts sure felt like 5.9 to me! But that's nothing new, and besides, Lynn Hill, Joe Brown and Don Whillans wouldn't give any of us shorties any sympathy. This is still a fantastic climb that lives up to its name. Apr 17, 2006
Talked to Kevin Pogue...the FAist of this route...his feeling was that if you are shorter than 6 foot...it's 5.9 at the start. Over 6 foot...5.8, and the rest...well helll, THAT"S JUST FUN!! Oct 11, 2005
philfell
Olympic Valley, CA
philfell   Olympic Valley, CA
Bring many draws or skip bolts on the easy sections. I think there are 15 or more bolts. Bring two ropes to get back to the ground.

Sweet climb that looks way harder than it is. Oct 11, 2005
Jake Richens
Sl, ut
  5.9
Jake Richens   Sl, ut
  5.9
Radical climb that starts on smooth rock and changes to classic city patina. I would recomend this climb to anyone willing to give it a go. Oct 11, 2005