Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Jeff & Kelly Rhodes, Aimee & Chris Barnes, 1980's
Page Views: 12,960 total · 82/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Feb 22, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Details


This is THE 5.11 sport climb at the City. It is a must do, if you can find 2 ropes and enough draws. :) The west side of Window rock is closed for the birds in the spring, so check for closures in the parking lot.

This route is the second sport climb on the right side of the west face. Scramble up a low 5th class ramp system from the right side of the climb. There is a single belay bolt on the ramp. Follow 17 bolts through continuous 5.10 and 5.11 terrain, with a crux at 2/3rd's height coming out of a depression in the wall. The final 40 ft to the anchor is an endurance test on solid 5.10 climbing.

Rap with 2 ropes. I have heard that a single 70M rope will work, but I have not tested this theory.


17 bolts


It can get really hot over here in the afternoons. And schwetty. Jul 29, 2006
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
A 70 M rope does work. This is an incredible climb, probably the best 5.11 sport route in the country. Oct 5, 2006
Great route, keep the guard up all the way... Mar 21, 2007
kyber   Portland
theres a new climb to the right. probably in the 11+ range. also really fun... Sep 15, 2008
Maynard, MA
Eric8   Maynard, MA
Great Route, might be best in the city but certainly not the best sport 11 in the country let alone the northwest... Mar 17, 2010
Recommendation: Belay from the ground in comfort. Why put the belayer in an uncomfortable position of trying to keep their gaze on you
from right at the base? This works beautifully as long as the leader realizes that because of the length (135'- from the 1st bolt to the anchors) of the route, that they will either need to rappel with a 80 meter single rope or will need to haul an additional rope upon reaching the anchors. Also, if one straddles the bolt line down low (instead of going out left), the real crux is there- not at 2/3 height. Aug 10, 2010
Great route. A 70m rope does work for the rap, but the rapper will have to either swing back into the upper ledge where the first bolt is, or the person on the ground will need a stick clip to grab the rappel ropes while standing/anchoring at/to the first bolt.

Belayer can stand on the lower ledge to belay while climb ties in on the upper ledge by the first bolt. 80m rope would be needed to belay "from the ground". Jul 25, 2011
Deniz   Boise
extremely fun climbing. Probably the best sport climb at the city that I have done. 70m is good to belay from the upper ledge. Feb 3, 2012
James Yates
Salt Lake City, Utah
James Yates   Salt Lake City, Utah
This is honestly the funniest 5.11 sport climb that I have ever done. I am a little biased though because I prefer granite to any other rock type and I love really long routes. I just love the style when climbing granite. To describe this climb in a few words I would say: good clean safe fun! The day before I sent Strategic defense and that line is much more proud and memorable but one that I will probably never lead again. She's the bosch on the other hand is one that I will keep coming back to. I think this is somewhat of a benchmark for 11c endurance oriented climbing. Loved every bit of it.... Oh, and save some juice for the finish! Sep 24, 2012
C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
Two very stout cruxes on small crimps. First one comes around the 4th bolt, and second as you try to pull through a depression about 3/4 of the way up. There are no hands rests shortly after both cruxes so you can re-group. Even after you make it through both cruxes, it's still difficult climbing all the way to the chains. Hang on tight! Apr 13, 2015
Where's Walden
Where's Walden  
Very fun climb, but I think Redtail is better by a substantial margin. There were two cruxes, both quickly followed by amazing rests, and the top posed no endurance challenge whatsoever, with huge foot hoods dominating the terrain.

Edit: I would specify that I felt huge footholds were omnipresent AFTER the crux. Jun 12, 2016
Brian Hestetune
Logan, UT
Brian Hestetune   Logan, UT
I was endurance challenged, but I didn't see the plethora of huge foot hoods. Jun 13, 2016
David LeBaron
David LeBaron   Grantsville,UT
The belay is good on all points. But probly better rope control for the belayer from the the shelf. We were also able to lower the climber to the ground from the ground with an 80. Sep 5, 2018