Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, 90 ft|
|FA:||Dave Bingham and Craig Reason 1987|
|Page Views:||855 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||bheller on Sep 30, 2012|
|Admins:||grk10vq, Mike Engle|
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Details
The west side of Window Rock has seasonal bird closure in the spring until June 15th- check for closure signs posted in the parking lot.
Chaos begins on a ledge system about 25-30 feet off the ground. This Ledge can be scrambled in on from the right of the route, or you can also climb and belay direct from the ground to reach the ledge system where the real climbing begins in an big and obvious overhanging right facing corner. The corner requires stemming and lie-backing up cracks and huecos and presents one powerful section before allowing for a rest on a sloping ledge about 35 feet up. Bolt placement seemed less than ideal to me in this corner. After a rest on the sloping ledge, a steep bulge awaits. This bulge can be cheated around, but, that's cheating. Above the bulge is the true crux of the route- a powerful section requiring big moves to hidden holds. Above the crux, the rock gets a bit grainy, and the finish follows a really cool dike feature to the chains- endurance is likely required to hold it together for the redpoint.
West side of Window Rock- a bit left of center- look for the steep obvious right facing corner with huecos that begins on the ledge system 30 feet up.
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