Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Dave Bingham and Craig Reason 1987
Page Views: 889 total · 12/month
Shared By: bheller on Sep 30, 2012
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Details

Description

Chaos begins on a ledge system about 25-30 feet off the ground. This Ledge can be scrambled in on from the right of the route, or you can also climb and belay direct from the ground to reach the ledge system where the real climbing begins in an big and obvious overhanging right facing corner. The corner requires stemming and lie-backing up cracks and huecos and presents one powerful section before allowing for a rest on a sloping ledge about 35 feet up. Bolt placement seemed less than ideal to me in this corner. After a rest on the sloping ledge, a steep bulge awaits. This bulge can be cheated around, but, that's cheating. Above the bulge is the true crux of the route- a powerful section requiring big moves to hidden holds. Above the crux, the rock gets a bit grainy, and the finish follows a really cool dike feature to the chains- endurance is likely required to hold it together for the redpoint.

Location

West side of Window Rock- a bit left of center- look for the steep obvious right facing corner with huecos that begins on the ledge system 30 feet up.

Protection

Bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

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bheller
SL UT
  5.12c
bheller   SL UT
  5.12c
Hardly hard-hard. P(hosted)threw I'd mense-traitor (7,18,11)'s displace of whit. Sep 30, 2012
bheller
SL UT
  5.12c
bheller   SL UT
  5.12c
No alcohol involved, I gave Chaos a nice write up and my description was hacked and sabatoged (as a joke) by someone with admin privaledges.

I just haven't fixed it yet... Do you have any good Chaos stories? Dec 6, 2012
Lynn Hill climbed this route. Don't be afraid! Aug 14, 2015