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Routes in Window Rock - West

Battle of the Bulges T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Brutal S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chaos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fear Factor S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Harvest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jet Lag S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Reaper T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
She's the Bosch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Singapore T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,407 total, 34/month
Shared By: bbrock on Apr 13, 2007
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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39 Opinions

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Raptor Nesting Details

Description

Top 5 best 5.11 crack climbs at the City(IMO). Singapore doesn't get done that often as it has a fierce reputation. The pro is perfect until the end where it starts to flare a little and gets pumpy. Also Check out Battle of the Bulge about 50 yards to the right of Singapore.

Here's your list: Brown Flake(Morning Glory)
Scar Tissue(The Office)
Crack of Doom(Morning Glory)
Terror of Tiny Town(Buzzard)
Singapore(Window)




Location

Window Rock at the left end. There is an amazing looking overhanging dihedral just above the Singapore chains

Protection

Doubles up to .75 camalot. A #1 camalot may fit in the flare at the end before the chains
Creed A
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Creed A   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I took a gang of small cams, including TCUs, X4s, and offset X4s. I was able to sew this route up, even the upper crack. While the route is heady, I don't think it warrants the PG-13 rating. Sep 5, 2016
bheller
SL UT
  5.11a PG13
bheller   SL UT
  5.11a PG13
It had been over a decade since I last climbed this route...climbed it again and wanted to say that the gear is indeed stubborn and awkward to place...and there is ledge fall potential should you rip gear leaving the stembox flare. Also, bring your sharp shoes...my blown out cruisers didn't like the small edges. May 16, 2016
Trevor.
Boise, ID
  5.11a PG13
Trevor.   Boise, ID
  5.11a PG13
I definitely used a lot of the 0.3 camalot/ blue metolius sized pieces on this one. Like other have said, the pro is a bit funky on the upper part, but you can find good placements, and the fall is a clean one so it's not too sketchy. Jun 21, 2015
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
red c3's Jun 16, 2013
I have yet to climb this route, but im heading down this weekend. Plan on getting on it. and as for your is I would also add Electric Ave and Skinners roof. two of the best routes out there, hands down. Jun 12, 2011
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
I did this one a couple days ago, and to me the gear was not an issue. It drops in wherever you want and it is good. I'm sure there are bad gear placements like on all climbs, but its not like you have to find the "one good placement". I placed about 8 cams, from purple c3 size to .5 camalot. There are some decent feet to rest on. Get on it. Its no more dangerous than Tiny Town or Scar Tissue. May 16, 2011
Lucas Barth
Devils Tower, WY
Lucas Barth   Devils Tower, WY
Hey, what about Interceptor and Lary's Annihilation for the best 5.11 cracks at the City. Now those are some real crack climbs. Sep 23, 2010
Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
I was in the 5th day of a vicious 7-day C-Diff infection (for the prior 2 days I was still on a liquid-only diet). And some how I still managed the on-sight this beast. The route is safe...provided the gear goes in...and that gents...is the crux. The crack will only take it in a few places, the rest would be worthless make-believe placements.

The first half is a good warm-up. You get a great rest at the ledge, though getting off of it and established on the upper dihedral is a real puzzle, merely hanging on to the shuts is the physical crux. Sep 18, 2010
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
Wow... You will need to bring your A-game to onsight this one. The lower dihedral is straight forward and only marred by some loose rock at the start. When the dihedral starts to lean, this is where things get interesting. There is good gear, but it is difficult to place and inspect while climbing. The majority of the upper crack is slightly flaring or irregular, which makes the gear tough to place. There are some bomber nuts along the way, so bring a good selection of nuts. Jun 14, 2008
My favorite route at the city, better than COD. I don't get the "fierce" reputation. I've lead it 3 times with good gear, blue and green aliens work best at the top IMO. If the crux (last) placements blow you're still way off the ground. Make sure you do Harvest (10d) to the left, also one of the best City cracks. Both these routes get plenty of shade. May 9, 2007
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
Nice list, but Terry of TT and Crack of Doom are both 5.10 cracks w/ 5.11 face cruxes. So, in that sense, I'd add The Awakening on King on the Throne. Apr 14, 2007