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Routes in Window Rock - West

Battle of the Bulges T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Brutal S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chaos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fear Factor S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Harvest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jet Lag S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Reaper T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
She's the Bosch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Singapore T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,838 total, 34/month
Shared By: jyount on Jul 29, 2008
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Raptor Nesting Details

Description

Some slab, body English, great finger locks, and an offwidth finish sum it up. Harvest would be a classic except for the bushes in the lower crack.
The climb starts in a lower angle V before going vertical in a flared chimney for a move or 2. The crack moves on to the face with the crux above the small roof where rattly fingers lead to a great hand jam and a desperate move (for me) into the offwidth.

Descend from slings around a chockstone.

Location

Far North End on the West face of Window Rock. Look for the V crack with small bushes and the 4" crack finish.

Protection

Small to Medium Nuts and small cams(Purple and Green C3s). A #2 Camelot is nice for the pod after the crux. The offwidth protects with .75 Camelot in the back.

Photos

Jordan Gilbert
Logan, UT
  5.11-
Jordan Gilbert   Logan, UT
  5.11-
Replaced cord at the anchor on 4/3/16. Sandbag! The crux is tough and the whole thing is steeper than it looks from the ground. Awesome route! Apr 4, 2016
mollybolly
San Francisco, CA
mollybolly   San Francisco, CA
FYI rappel cord on the anchor is looking pretty old, bring ~25 ft of cord to replace. Oct 27, 2015
Alec LaLonde
  5.11-
Alec LaLonde  
  5.11-
Would be four stars except for the jungly start. Everything up to the crux bulge is surprisingly moderate, but that thing is burly and very sequential. A healthy sandbag at 10d. Oct 20, 2014
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10d
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10d
One of the best and hardest 10ds at the city. And most folks will probably find the crux pretty tough at the grade. Outstanding.

There's an old metolius cam in the lower section of the upper crack. Got it to move but probably would need a second tool to clean it. Sep 26, 2012
Ty Gregory
Salt Lake City
Ty Gregory   Salt Lake City
HB #8 OS in the pocket. - we're not sport climbing here. Jun 9, 2012
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
Great route; its single crux move just below the pod felt like solid 11a to me. Definitely one of the best cracks in the City. Jul 21, 2011
Kevin Volkening
  5.11a
Kevin Volkening  
  5.11a
Onsighted Terror but had major problems on this one... Suggest more like 11a Jun 6, 2011
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11a
On 6/3/11, I sure didn't like the looks of the block all the anchor slings were slung around (the block wiggled a bit) so we slung a *much* larger block off to the left and used the biner from the "fixed" nut at the crux and an old locker of mine on the new anchor sling. Booty it if you want but definitely check out the old anchor block first--it's sketchy. Jun 5, 2011
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
This route's crux is pretty burly. I found it more difficult than any single move on Singapore or Tiny Town. Two fixed nuts as of 5/16/11 in pretty convenient places. Hard to place the #2 camalot when your hand is in the pod. May 16, 2011
Lucas Barth
Devils Tower, WY
Lucas Barth   Devils Tower, WY
I wouldn't really call it ofwidth at the top. By that point you have two great face jugs to pull on. No offwidth technique neccessary. Awesome route. Sep 23, 2010
Jclimb
Moab, UT
Jclimb   Moab, UT
I don't think big gear is needed up top, either. If you brought it, you could probably use it, but really I don't think anything larger than a green camalot is needed for the route (could be useful for an anchor on top, though?). I'd bring small to medium stoppers, doubles or triples through fingers, a couple purple & green camalots, & runners. Rap slings are up the slab to the left. Felt nice & stout for the grade. Aug 22, 2010
Incredible! In my opinion, one of the best trad lines at the City. Just a little deciduous at the bottom, but otherwise very clean. This climb has just about everything you could ask for - jungly liebacking, a few easy chimney moves, insecure fingers through a small alcove/roof, great hand jams, and just a little offwidth to finish it up. I'm not sure you'd need big gear for the offwidth at the top. I was able to slot a big stopper at the bottom of the offwidth. Mar 19, 2010
Toby
Jackson, WY
  5.10d
Toby   Jackson, WY
  5.10d
Sweet climb! Well worth doing even with the bushes in the crack. Great variety of moves. The rock is just a bit dirty but with some traffic would be stellar. As for the sketchy block at the top, we traversed around the left side and rapped off bolts on some 5.6 on the east side. May 13, 2009
a stellar line, climb it in the shade! Sep 16, 2008
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10d
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10d
This route is fricken' awesome, I have no idea why it isn't more popular. Perhaps the bushes in the crack at the bottom chase people away, but outside of that bit of climbing - the rest is superb.

Varied climbing, bomber gear, and stout climbing. Get on it. The crux is pretty dang physical, so get psyched.

Gear - Lots of thin gear (I placed many small to medium nuts) to a #2 or #3 camalot. I placed a #3 camalot (and took a nice whipper on it to :) in the pod, but a #2 would go in as well. Anchor takes either hand size gear or thin gear. No need for any big gear.

The rap anchor is a bit on the sketchy side, but it worked. Slung block. Probably worth adding some slings. Aug 29, 2008