Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Greg Lowe, 1960's
Page Views: 29,274 total · 165/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Jun 11, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

602 Opinions

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This beautiful route climbs the thin flake feature right of Rye Crisp. It is easier than it looks, but just as high quality.

Wander up the easy flake system until it steepens. Jam and face climb up this wonderful feature until you are back on 3rd class ground. Bring a 70 meter or 2 60 meter ropes to rap from any of a number of fixed anchors.


Stoppers, cams from fingers to big hands.
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
Really fun climb. Climb this route. It is definitely easier than it looks, on the upper section, the face has tons of good holds if you want to use them. Aug 4, 2004
Bobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
Bobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
Please...please do not toprope this route on weekends when it is crowded. This is THE classic moderate route at the City. Twice I have been here and seen large groups of people TRing this route on a Saturday. If you MUST toprope it, come midweek when nobody is around. TRing this (or any other classic climb) on crowded weekends is selfish and inconsiderate. If you have lots of beginners that you want to take up on the weekend, take each one as a second, one at a time, and lead it over and over again. This allows other groups to jump in and lead through.

If there is a long line of people waiting to lead a route, I don't think anyone can complain. But the second time that I saw people TRing this route, my partner and I moved on to something else while the group behind us stayed around to climb this one since they had never climbed it before. Four hours later they were still waiting (maybe much longer, because we left). Yes, they could have moved on as well, but if the TRers had lead through each time, no one would have had to wait more than say 30 minutes. Moreover, the TRers were doing LAPS! Argh!

There are plenty of nonclassic, yet still good, places to TR on busy days. See, for example, Practice Rock. Jun 23, 2005
Bobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
Bobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
Also, there is a walkoff down the back side. Jun 27, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
Classic. Much better than Rye Crisp. Don't get sucked into the large crack at the end. Use the face. Sep 11, 2006
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
A classic flake route at the City. This route has seen a number of Teva ascents for those looking for a little spice. Sep 20, 2006
Park City, Ut.
Woodson   Park City, Ut.
A great route. This eats a lot of nuts, and makes a great first lead at the city! Jun 7, 2009
santa clara, utah
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
There is a section at about 3/4th the way up, where you have to rely only on the crack, that transitions to face climbing up a little higher that I would rate at harder than 5.7

The book calls it a "committing layback crux" -- I agree, its a bit tricky. Oct 16, 2009
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bozeman, MT
Ty Morrison-Heath   Bozeman, MT
Total classic. Take gear from a .5 to #4. Bring enough big cams up to set an anchor at the top. A 70 meter rope is required if you want to tr it. Best moderate I did at the city. Apr 26, 2011
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
This route is one of my favorite trad climbs thus far. Very vertical, great placements, great anchor options at the top. Definitely can see why it is a classic. My partner and I could not find the anchors to rap off of, so we walked off the south side. It wasn't bad at all. Jul 23, 2012
Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
Matt Schroer   Logan, Utah
All around excellence - superb flake that leads to a fun lieback. Just as the flake thins out, holds pop back out onto the face for a good, clean finish. Classic. Mar 17, 2013
Super positive climbing, really only a few 5.7 moves where it gets steep. I agree, don't get sucked into the OW head R onto the face. Save some big gear 3in and bigger for the anchor. Sep 29, 2013
From below it looked like there was no pro for the last 25 feet or so when you start to climb on the face, but there ended up being plenty. I placed a #4 in the wide crack/flake, then few more from 0.3-0.5 on the outside of it before topping out on easy terrain. I think I extended them all with single length slings.

Lots of options for building an anchor at the top, but hand size and larger pieces are most convenient.

I was a little nervous about committing to the lieback, but it was fairly secure and you get a big jug to hang on after you pull through the hardest couple moves. Solid route for a new 5.7 leader. Oct 12, 2014
It seems like every time that I climb this it either starts raining or snowing when im half way up. Mar 23, 2015
Sam Tobler
Little Rock, AR
Sam Tobler   Little Rock, AR
I've noticed that there are at least two pieces of pro stuck in the crack...one in the lower vertical crack that's been there for years and another that recently got stuck near the top. Both of them walked deep enough into the crack to be uncammed with the trigger impossible or near impossible to use to retrieve them. This is a fun route and is a good beginner lead, but just a friendly reminder to use long enough slings so that the crack doesn't eat around $70 of your gear. Jul 16, 2017
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
Removed piece of stuck gear on Tuesday, July 25. Send message with describing details if you think it is yours. Jul 26, 2017
Replaced rap anchor in 2017 with cooperation between the nps, local climbers alliance and ASCA. Consider a donation today at safeclimbing.org. Anchor is a bit to the south towards "Just Say No" **70M ROPE TO RAP AND KNOT THE ENDS** Oct 23, 2017
good route - you don't really start climbing at the grade until you're ~2/3 up. Biggest gear I used was #3 C4 camalot. You can walk off without trespassing if the shared rap anchors are crowded. walk climbers left once you "summit" following the path of least resistance. There is one easy downclimb move, as I recall, near the bottom. May want to have your second bring up sneakers, but we did it in climbing shoes. Feb 7, 2018