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Routes in Elephant Rock - East

Columbian Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heironimous Bosch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Just Say No S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Pretzel Logic T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pygmies Got Stoned, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rye Crisp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sinsemilla T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Tres Amigos S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wash Out T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Wheat Thin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Dan Sperlock, 1989
Page Views: 4,405 total, 27/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 24, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


175 Opinions

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Description

This is the left most route of bolts on the Northeast side, just right of a large chimney. The 1st clip is tenuous and the hanger is loose, so take your time (as I found out) and gain the height needed to clip properly. It get's runout near the top but it also eases up. Utilize that left arete when neede, although it isn't as much help as you would think.

Protection

5 draws for the route and 2 more for the anchors. A 60-meter rope is required and on the rappel aim right. Beware it is 103 feet to the ground.
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10a PG13
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10a PG13
Really good, but spicy route. Blowing clips or the final runout to the chain (very easy climbing) is not an option. Runout to the first bolt is high enough that you'll probably bust something if you blow that clip. I think 5.9 is probably a historic rating, so don't expect AF 5.9. Jul 20, 2015
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9 PG13
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9 PG13
My partner chose to sling a hole in the rock heading up to the first bolt, so I can confirm this is a good way to ease the start a bit. I found the bolt spacing to be pretty heady, but I don't sport climb a lot. Crux for me was between bolts 4 and 5, where it was pretty slabby for a few moves compared to the nice patina elsewhere.

As a side note, I did enjoy this route MORE because of the bolt spacing. Made it pretty engaging for me, but I don't onsight 5.13 sport climbs as warm ups. Aug 2, 2013
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.9 PG13
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.9 PG13
I think I got off route, and made this way more difficult. But the 5th bolt (up high) was the toughest section to me. I went pretty far right though. So I guess don't do that?

I did this route thinking it was PG13 or R because of the first bolt, and the first bolt only. I think it's rated at this because of all the bolts. 15ft above your last bolt smearing on some sheisty slab is a bit intense! Jun 17, 2013
Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
  5.9
Matt Schroer   Logan, Utah
  5.9
This was my first climb at the city and a super fun bolted arete. Note that it is 5 bolts for >100 feet of climbing, but the upper portion is significantly easier than the lower portion. Crux for me was getting to that first bolt. Jul 6, 2011
Addict
  5.9 PG13
Addict  
  5.9 PG13
Fun route. Pretty dang runout, a nice lead for the 5.10 climber though. Oct 30, 2006
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
This route is fun! Oct 24, 2006
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
just say yes! Aug 20, 2006
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
  5.9- PG13
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
  5.9- PG13
A fall going to the first bolt would be bad. You can actually hitch a runner around the rock in the little "cave" to the left - takes the sting out of the run out to the first bolt. But keep in mind that there are still only 5 bolts for 100' of climbing! Jun 19, 2006