Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Greg Lowe, 1960's
Page Views: 23,447 total · 133/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 24, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

514 Opinions

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This climbs the obvious lower and then upper flakes that face the left. These jagged shards of granite beg to be enjoyed. If you have the gear, do not go home without doing this route. Consistent, long and varied. Laybacks hand-stacks, foot stacks, finger jams. BEEEE-you-tiful


Large gear is neccesary on this route. #4 cams are needed. a 60 meter rope is required for the rap. Traverse to the anchors for Just Say No, or use 2 ropes.
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
5 minute approach, Wheat thin yards away... if you are a moderate leader do not pass this up. Classic is an understatement, it is of the highest quality. That said, it is intimidating looking up at it from the ground (if you are a 5.8 leader), but fear not, it is solid climbing, great movement over rock. Aug 4, 2004
Englewood, CO
ROC   Englewood, CO
Very fun climb. Having said that I would be VERY, VERY HESITANT about doing this one again as to the dubious nature of the entire flake system. The entire thing is hollow and vibrates terriblely when you knock on it. The first half seems pretty solid, but the upper half seemed very suspect to me. How long till that thing comes down? "5 minutes or 5 thousand years?" If it should cut loose, you and your belayer are toast. ENJOY!!! Aug 13, 2004
Peter Gram
Portland, OR
Peter Gram   Portland, OR  
This flake is bomber, I didn't find it freaky at all. If you want to see the definition of thin scary flake, check out Arm and Hammer in Bells Canyon!

Really great route! Jul 10, 2005
Casey Jones
Seattle, WA
Casey Jones   Seattle, WA
One of my first trad leads. Great climb, good pro. God, I have to get back to the City!!! Feb 9, 2006
Armin climber
Westminster, CO
Armin climber   Westminster, CO
Amazing route, my wife and I made a stop to the "city" on our rock n road honeymoon this past summer, and we did this route, I'm a 5.8 leader and at first was intimidated as mentioned earlier, but then cruised this route. Take a good selection of large cams up to #5 BD and long slings. Feb 16, 2006
koji t  
awesome. a must-do. Jul 17, 2006
Shaun Greene
Shaun Greene   www.UtahShaun.com
Thoroughly enjoyed this climb. Took a number 4 camalot and kept trying to save it for further up the climb. Climbed the whole thing without using the number 4 and felt very well protected. There are some bomber nut placements as the flake ends and you get up towards the wider section near the top of the climb. Feb 12, 2007
David Shiembob
slc, ut
David Shiembob   slc, ut
I found the bottom flake moves to be the crux, a #4 seemed like the only thing to protect that well with (I didn't have one). I managed to protect the rest fine with a #2 and #3. May 15, 2007
R Squared
R Squared  
This climb f*cking rules! Nov 25, 2007
Bend, OR
Ben2   Bend, OR
Great climb, protects well. If you feel the need to sew it up however, make sure you bring plenty of long runners or you will be in pain towards the top. Aug 24, 2008
Park City, Ut.
Woodson   Park City, Ut.
Can you say deelicious!! That flake is just hanging on! The lieback moves on this route are never ending, and I did end up runnering a ton of pieces on it. I used a variety of camalots up to #4, and it protects very well. A must do. Jun 7, 2009
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
Coolest flake ever. Jan 18, 2011
Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
Matt Schroer   Logan, Utah
I agree with the above comment. This is hands down the coolest flake in the world. So fun I climbed it twice right in a row - great pump! Sep 7, 2011
Salt Lake City, Ut
rging   Salt Lake City, Ut
I led this the other day with 2 #3s and 3 #2s and the typical smaller c4s. Not a good idea. You really need at least 1 #4 and 3 #3s would be nice. Plus don't forget the gear belay at the top where a couple of 2s or a 2 and a 1 are needed. Jun 22, 2012
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
You can do this route with one #4 BD, just walk it with you, and a few medium to large size cams. Best route on the rock. Aug 24, 2012
Eric Haye
Eric Haye   Boulder
Amazing climb even though I ran into some major rope drag. I would suggest extending all runners prior to moving right on the flake. I led it with 1 #4 but 2 would be perfect. Sep 3, 2012
Kirk B.
Boise, ID
Kirk B.   Boise, ID
I found that if you protect too low or don't sling your pro long down low that rope drag can be a problem. Fabulous route, though. Feb 13, 2013
Possibly one of the best 5.8's anywhere. The bottom can be protected with smaller cams 0.5-.75 if you look for them. Just use long slings. I used a large nut in on the face just before getting on the flake. 3.5 used for the traverse between the lower and upper flake. Two # 4's on the upper flake. Two # 2's and a #1 for the anchor or face climb L to the rap chains. Sep 29, 2013
Jackson's Hooooleeeeeee, WY
Prametheus   Jackson's Hooooleeeeeee, WY
Such an amazing lead, however, protecting the flake is most certainly questionable. Active gear, especially a large number 4, might rip out of the flake if a big whip occurs. My partner who followed remarked that he could feel the flake move when he pulled hard on it. We have all been taught not to protect in areas like these, but WOAH. This climb is so exciting, especially if you run it out a bit to reduce rope drag and make good use of your limited large gear. A MUST DO and the greatest 5.8 lead in the city. Aug 21, 2014
Colin Szehner
Oakland, Ca
Colin Szehner   Oakland, Ca
Awesome climb, reminds me of a left facing farley from sugarloaf. climbed this in July without a #4 and was sweating and cursing the entire way up. bring a #4. The flake is in great condition, didnt notice any hollow sounds or movement or anything to be worried about. Go climb temple crag if you think this is bad and you'll have a different opinion of loose. Sep 7, 2016
Dan Katz
New York, NY
Dan Katz   New York, NY
Absolutely incredible climb. I led with one each of cams #3-5; if I led again, I'd take a second #3 and a second #4, and leave some smaller gear behind - No need for microcams or doubles of much else. Possibly my favorite lead to date. May 7, 2017
sclair   SLC, Ut
I should have led this climb a long time ago, but I was intimidated for no reason. Worth every star IMO. I had 2 #4s, one for each flake, but would have preferred one #5 and one #4. Jun 11, 2017
Replaced rap anchor in 2017 with cooperation between the nps, local climbers alliance and ASCA. Consider a donation today at safeclimbing.org. Anchor is a bit to the south towards "Just Say No" **70M ROPE TO RAP AND KNOT THE ENDS** Oct 23, 2017
Great line, ditto on resembling "farley" from sugarloaf (but a little easier). Biggest gear I had was double #3 cams, and while a little spicy, I felt reasonably well-protected through all the hard moves. Having a #4 would be more convenient though. Solids hold, solid pro, and flow made it so I ended up running out pieces through the middle. Also climbed the bouldery start, hung a piece at the edge of the flake on the left, and then back-cleaned the first couple pieces I set to eliminate rope drag higher up - this worked good. We rapped with a 60M on the rap anchor immediately left (sounds like it may not be there anymore as of 10/17?) but then we did the walk off after doing wheat thin. I would recommend this on crowded days. Feb 7, 2018
Sean Sullivan
Boise, ID
Sean Sullivan   Boise, ID
Awesome climb. Amazing Flake. Definitely want those number fours. I had two and walked them both a bunch. Apr 7, 2018
Isaac   Portland
As Shaun mentioned, you do not "need" big gear for this one. Ample constrictions throughout. If you're comfortable placing passive pro, leave the big cams behind (or bring 'em like I did and call it training weight). Sep 17, 2018