John J. Glime Cottonwood Heights, UT

[Hide Comment] 5 minute approach, Wheat thin yards away... if you are a moderate leader do not pass this up. Classic is an understatement, it is of the highest quality. That said, it is intimidating looking up at it from the ground (if you are a 5.8 leader), but fear not, it is solid climbing, great movement over rock. Aug 4, 2004

ROC Denver, CO

[Hide Comment] Very fun climb. Having said that I would be VERY, VERY HESITANT about doing this one again as to the dubious nature of the entire flake system. The entire thing is hollow and vibrates terriblely when you knock on it. The first half seems pretty solid, but the upper half seemed very suspect to me. How long till that thing comes down? "5 minutes or 5 thousand years?" If it should cut loose, you and your belayer are toast. ENJOY!!! Aug 13, 2004

Peter Gram Jackson, WY   5.8

[Hide Comment] This flake is bomber, I didn't find it freaky at all. If you want to see the definition of thin scary flake, check out Arm and Hammer in Bells Canyon! Really great route! Jul 10, 2005

Casey Jones Seattle, WA

[Hide Comment] One of my first trad leads. Great climb, good pro. God, I have to get back to the City!!! Feb 9, 2006

Armin hammer Reno, NV

[Hide Comment] Amazing route, my wife and I made a stop to the "city" on our rock n road honeymoon this past summer, and we did this route, I'm a 5.8 leader and at first was intimidated as mentioned earlier, but then cruised this route. Take a good selection of large cams up to #5 BD and long slings. Feb 16, 2006

koji t

[Hide Comment] awesome. a must-do. Jul 17, 2006

Shaun Greene www.UtahShaun.com

[Hide Comment] Thoroughly enjoyed this climb. Took a number 4 camalot and kept trying to save it for further up the climb. Climbed the whole thing without using the number 4 and felt very well protected. There are some bomber nut placements as the flake ends and you get up towards the wider section near the top of the climb. Feb 12, 2007

David Shiembob slc, ut

[Hide Comment] I found the bottom flake moves to be the crux, a #4 seemed like the only thing to protect that well with (I didn't have one). I managed to protect the rest fine with a #2 and #3. May 15, 2007

R Squared   5.8

[Hide Comment] This climb f*cking rules! Nov 25, 2007

Ben2 Bend, OR   5.8

[Hide Comment] Great climb, protects well. If you feel the need to sew it up however, make sure you bring plenty of long runners or you will be in pain towards the top. Aug 24, 2008

Woodson Park City, Ut.   5.8

[Hide Comment] Can you say deelicious!! That flake is just hanging on! The lieback moves on this route are never ending, and I did end up runnering a ton of pieces on it. I used a variety of camalots up to #4, and it protects very well. A must do. Jun 7, 2009

Jason Halladay Los Alamos, NM   5.8

[Hide Comment] Coolest flake ever. Jan 18, 2011

Matt Schroer Logan, Utah

[Hide Comment] I agree with the above comment. This is hands down the coolest flake in the world. So fun I climbed it twice right in a row - great pump! Sep 7, 2011

rging Salt Lake City, Ut   5.8-

[Hide Comment] I led this the other day with 2 #3s and 3 #2s and the typical smaller c4s. Not a good idea. You really need at least 1 #4 and 3 #3s would be nice. Plus don't forget the gear belay at the top where a couple of 2s or a 2 and a 1 are needed. Jun 22, 2012

Alex Quitiquit Salt Lake City   5.8

[Hide Comment] You can do this route with one #4 BD, just walk it with you, and a few medium to large size cams. Best route on the rock. Aug 24, 2012

Eric Haye Boulder

[Hide Comment] Amazing climb even though I ran into some major rope drag. I would suggest extending all runners prior to moving right on the flake. I led it with 1 #4 but 2 would be perfect. Sep 3, 2012

Kirk B. Boise, ID   5.8

[Hide Comment] I found that if you protect too low or don't sling your pro long down low that rope drag can be a problem. Fabulous route, though. Feb 13, 2013

TNORM

[Hide Comment] Possibly one of the best 5.8's anywhere. The bottom can be protected with smaller cams 0.5-.75 if you look for them. Just use long slings. I used a large nut in on the face just before getting on the flake. 3.5 used for the traverse between the lower and upper flake. Two # 4's on the upper flake. Two # 2's and a #1 for the anchor or face climb L to the rap chains. Sep 29, 2013

Prametheus Teton Valley

[Hide Comment] Such an amazing lead, however, protecting the flake is most certainly questionable. Active gear, especially a large number 4, might rip out of the flake if a big whip occurs. My partner who followed remarked that he could feel the flake move when he pulled hard on it. We have all been taught not to protect in areas like these, but WOAH. This climb is so exciting, especially if you run it out a bit to reduce rope drag and make good use of your limited large gear. A MUST DO and the greatest 5.8 lead in the city. Aug 21, 2014

Colin Szehner Oakland, Ca

[Hide Comment] Awesome climb, reminds me of a left facing farley from sugarloaf. climbed this in July without a #4 and was sweating and cursing the entire way up. bring a #4. The flake is in great condition, didnt notice any hollow sounds or movement or anything to be worried about. Go climb temple crag if you think this is bad and you'll have a different opinion of loose. Sep 7, 2016

Dan Katz New York, NY

[Hide Comment] Absolutely incredible climb. I led with one each of cams #3-5; if I led again, I'd take a second #3 and a second #4, and leave some smaller gear behind - No need for microcams or doubles of much else. Possibly my favorite lead to date. May 7, 2017

sclair SLC, Ut   5.8

[Hide Comment] I should have led this climb a long time ago, but I was intimidated for no reason. Worth every star IMO. I had 2 #4s, one for each flake, but would have preferred one #5 and one #4. Jun 11, 2017

Nate Liles Lander, WY

[Hide Comment] Replaced rap anchor in 2017 with cooperation between the nps, local climbers alliance and ASCA. Consider a donation today at safeclimbing.org. Anchor is a bit to the south towards "Just Say No" **70M ROPE TO RAP AND KNOT THE ENDS** Oct 23, 2017

Mattisadude

[Hide Comment] Great line, ditto on resembling "farley" from sugarloaf (but a little easier). Biggest gear I had was double #3 cams, and while a little spicy, I felt reasonably well-protected through all the hard moves. Having a #4 would be more convenient though. Solids hold, solid pro, and flow made it so I ended up running out pieces through the middle. Also climbed the bouldery start, hung a piece at the edge of the flake on the left, and then back-cleaned the first couple pieces I set to eliminate rope drag higher up - this worked good. We rapped with a 60M on the rap anchor immediately left (sounds like it may not be there anymore as of 10/17?) but then we did the walk off after doing wheat thin. I would recommend this on crowded days. Feb 7, 2018

Sean Sullivan Idyllwild, CA

[Hide Comment] Awesome climb. Amazing Flake. Definitely want those number fours. I had two and walked them both a bunch. Apr 7, 2018

Isaac Portland   5.8

[Hide Comment] As Shaun mentioned, you do not "need" big gear for this one. Ample constrictions throughout. If you're comfortable placing passive pro, leave the big cams behind (or bring 'em like I did and call it training weight). Sep 17, 2018

Marc Micatka Seattle, WA

[Hide Comment] There seems to be some conflicting opinions on whether large gear is necessary. I almost didn't try it because I had no #4s. If you are confident at the grade, I did it with only a single #3, no #4s. It makes the first crux a bit spicy given that I extended my first piece but after that it's no sweat. I ended up placing my #3 at the second "crux", where the flake turns to an undercling. Be sure to save some larger pieces to set up an anchor at the top. There are a lot of opportunities for solid passive pro. Overall a really fun climb with great movement up the flake. Sep 29, 2019

Brian Cook Park City, UT

[Hide Comment] 5/14/21 both quick links at the rap are completely loose from banging on a granite knob. I hand tightened them and after one rap they were loose again. Someone take a wrench and some loctite, yikes. May 16, 2021

Brandon Marshal Victor, ID

[Hide Comment] Slightly gripped with only one blue metolius supercam (#3-#4 BD equivalent) as a confident 5.8-5.9 COR leader! Flake is deep so big cams are prone to walking. Wish I had 2-3 big units, some 20 foot run-outs for me instead! Big whippers here would not be good! Then again, all the holds "are there" :) Finger size cams and small nuts protect the top bit above the flake. Single and double length runners galore unless you fancy some serious drag! Aug 30, 2021

Dave Bingham Hailey, ID

[Hide Comment] FA here says Greg Lowe. Certainly from that era, but it seems presumptuous to label every old classic as a Greg Lowe route. There were a bunch of players in that group. Dec 22, 2021

Benton Hodges Jackson, WY

[Hide Comment] You won't be disappointed to have a #5 on the first crux. Oct 24, 2023

Paul Stoliker Canmore, AB   5.8

[Hide Comment] Take at least four 4” cams. I used these plus a 5”, as well as a few smaller pieces. This climb is not as scary as the guidebooks suggest. There are good footholds to the left of the flake. Jun 18, 2024

Sonu C Ogden, UT

[Hide Comment] You can build a top anchor with small gear if you walk ~10' feet up. Nov 18, 2024